Fork spring spacer and head race service/replacement

Having already changed the oil in the front forks I read that boosting the spacer length can help improve the stiffness in the fork, has anyone tried this already?

I need to replace the front tire in the next month or so and while i have the wheel off think I will add a stack of washers to the inside of the fork to increase the compression on the spring.

Still suffering from a soggy front end which it particulary dos not like square edged bumps like a manhole/drain cover and as a result have a notch on the head races , are these a PitA to do?

I think general concensus is thay are nit I need to bite the bullet at some point as the notch is not good and is a defect on this otherwise excellent machine.

There is a discussion on this forum about a preload cap, and the 10mm spacer. Search for "front bouncy" in the Accessories and Modifications section.

Notch in the steering is also an MoT failure bud, whereabouts in the UK are you ?

Some threads you might like to peruse bud....

https://www.silverwing600.com/t9331-tapered-steering-head-bearings?highlight=steering+stem+tool

https://www.silverwing600.com/t7792-steering-stem-top-nut-octagonal-socket?highlight=steering+stem+tool

https://www.silverwing600.com/t7791-steering-stem-nut-tool?highlight=steering+stem+tool

Cheers for that guys/bern , located in the south midlands.

I should be ok to do it just dont like having her off the road. It will no doubt take longer to remove the fairing then to do the job itself but will fashion a bendy tool to remove the old races as that looks like the way to go.

The notch itself is bad at low speeds but goes un-noticed above 40mph when you hardly need to turn the bars to put in a turn.

Probably do the rubber grommet things over easter and save the head races for another time....cheers

No need to remove the faring to do the head race bearings and just fit the hyperpro springs to it that will sort the soggy front end out

thanks thats good info , was dreading taking the fairing to pieces.

Looks like a tool will be needed to remove the races but not sure why i need to make a long socket tool , would a socket on an extension bar not work to undo the bearing nut ......probably missing something but want to get the tools ready in advance if i can. TIA

You need a super deep reach socket simply because the nut is located a long way down the shaft bud + it's a 'special tool' due to it being an octagonal (rather than the normal hexagonal) nut

Thanks for your wisdom Bern......but why the heck would they do that , fit an octanut rather then your usual hex....maybe it would be possible to replace the nut once its off but of course you have to remove it first

Siataukreg wrote:

No need to remove the faring to do the head race bearings and just fit the hyperpro springs to it that will sort the soggy front end out

I'd second on Hyper Pro springs and a good 15 weight oil. Adding a spacer to stock spring will only make it stiffer. Hyper Pro removes the spacer and is one long progressive spring more space to compress.  Honda 8w oil is more like a 10w oil as for viscosity. I'd recommend a 15w a little thicker without being harsh on bumps.  Only need one QT. for forks about 10 OZ in each leg.

cello33 wrote:

thanks thats good info , was dreading taking the fairing to pieces.  

Looks like a tool will be needed to remove the races but not sure why i need to make a long socket tool , would a socket on an extension bar not work to undo the bearing nut ......probably missing something but want to get the tools ready in advance if i can. TIA

I was able to make the extra deep socket by buying two deep sockets, cutting one so that I could weld to the other socket creating the extra deep socket. You cannot just weld the two sockets together. You want to extend the side where the nut slides in. Make sure you line up the socket before welding the two pieces. I think I have a picture in my album.

Have a look in this thread bud, loads of pic's of the process (including why such a deep socket is needed)

https://www.silverwing600.com/t7786-steering-stem-socket  

Do you ...

A ..... Get any time off during the week
B ..... Fancy riding up here & do the bearing change in my garage

Or if you would rather have a go yourself, this is the nearest to the socket in size to the one found by our American member (in post above) that is available in the UK .............

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CT4561-32mm-Deep-Impact-Axle-Spindle-Nut-12-Point-Socket-1-2-Drive-85mm-Long/123302271132?epid=18017019683&hash=item1cb563589c:g:4ooAAOSw-95bbUTV&frcectupt=true


HTH :Happy Holiday:

Further to The Bern's post. Here is a US eBay link for the above socket:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunex-2804zd-12-Inch-Drive-32-Mm-12-Point-Deep-Spindle-Nut-Socket/113671006060?epid=5017170213&hash=item1a7751e76c:g:DPwAAOSwBZ5cetXZ

Sorry to bring this up yet again but the SW failed the MOT with the notch in the head bearings so now forced to do the job....probably a good thing in the long run.

So I have a long reach socket which a friend fabricated for me , have the taper bearings and also a long bendy drift tool but strugling for a spacer to put the new bottom race in. I am hoping to drift out the old race in one piece and use that to seat the new race ...is that feasible or would i be advised to get something manufactured in advance, think the size is 54mm. I would like to get the job done in one day but can see this being a bugger!

Hey Bern just saw your offer , thats awfully kind of you but the MOT is out on Wed of this week so looking like I have no option but to crack on.....