Front End Strip for Head Bearings and Fork Seals

Lots of front end wobble persuaded me that my head bearings were knackered and as I had to replace both fork seals, decided to do it all myself and learn a bit about how this bike's put together.



Quite a few of the screws holding on the front fairing were quite badly corroded and took a bit of getting out but eventually I ended up with this:



Then this:



Also, I found a previous owner had taken a novel approach to getting the panels to fit together. There's one on the other side too!



Here's why one leg is leaking so badly - you can just see the tooth marks in the chrome:



I was a bit confused by this clamp at first but eventually worked it out. Had to take the clocks off though in order to get a breaker bar in the gap. Both bolts were almost seized in.



As many have already said, getting the lower bearing shell out was a right pain. I tried my jemmy bar but the blade end was too thick. I then tried a round rasp file I found in my tool box (no idea where it came from!) but it just wouldn't catch the lip of the shell. In the end I had to make my own by taking a length of steel bar, creating a bend and then filing the tip into a blade. Worked a treat and the shell just popped out!



Now all I need is a way of retightenng the stem nut to the correct torque. So far I can't find a suitabe socket anywhere. I need a twelve wall socket deep enough. I know some of you have made your own 'devices' but any suggestions as to where I can get something suitable, please et me know.

I'll update the thread when the rebuild starts. Until I can sort out this stem nut, I'm on hold.

Rog

For the stem nut, I purchased two deep sockets of correct size. I then cut the ratchet end off of one and welded it to the other one making a very deep socket. Worked great. Just my 2¢.

Just ordered an 80mm deep 12pt 32mm socket that should do the job. £9 inc postage off eBay. Neighbour has a torque wrench so all good to go.

Socket has arrived but I'm not sure it's deep enough.

Oh, and I bottled the fork seal replacement. I had to take the steering stem down to my local bike shop as I can't get the lower bearing shell off. As they're going to remove it and press the new bearing shell on, I thought I might as well get them to strip and sort the forks as well. Hopefully back by Friday or early next week. Back on the road by next weekend?

I'll be doing my head bearings shortly. Found a notchy bit at straight ahead.

Are you replacing with tapered roller bearings, or OEM balls? I'm hoping I'll have a suitable socket but I'd appreciate any info on how you get on with it.

I'm going with tapered bearings. As to the stem socket, I bought a 2nd hand, 12 pt 32mm socket that's 80mm from top to bottom. Of course, you lose 10mm with the drive hole so I may have to drill it out a little to get purchase for the last bit of tightening. Will find out when the stem comes back from the workshop.

Plenty of 32mm box spanners on ebay

Sure but they're all 6pt sockets. I can't fit the stem nut in a 6pt - it needs a 12 pt and I can't find a 12 pt box spanner.

Unfortunately that 32 mm jam nut is octagonal, not a normal shaped nut. That's why the 12 point socket is needed.

Here a an eBay link for the Sunex 2804ZD spindle socket which is the only socket we've found which fits the purpose: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsunex+2804zd.TRS0&_nkw=sunex+2804zd&_sacat=0

If anyone here has one of these Sunex sockets, could you do me a favour and measure the internal depth of the socket right up to the base of the drive area please. That's the relevant number. It's not mentioned in the eBay advert.

Thanks.

I've just found, in a Walmart website description of all places, what I think is the outer length of the Sunex socket - 3.5 inches, which is 88.9mm. My socket outside length is 80mm. I suspect that 8.9mm is going to be the deal breaker

If it is, I'll get my local metal shop to cut and shut mine with a collar welded in to increase the depth. Either that or spend £50+ plus customs(?) to get one from the States. All in all a bit of an arse.

32 mm 12 point fits an older Toyota axle nut. Depth is your only issue. Auto parts stores should handle, stock them. Good luck.

I was wrong on Toyota socket size. The one I have is 30mm not 32 mm.

I've seen a few on eBay that specify 'Toyota' but they tend to be slightly shorter than the one I've got.

Hoping stem and forks will be ready tomorrow. Friday was the earliest delivery quoted but more likely next Tuesday but I can hope...

Well, she's all back together again. (Photobucket want me to upgrade to a paying account before I can link to more pics so that'll have to wait.)

The bike shop sorted my forks out, putting in a 15w oil which I hope will improve things and the new head bearings have made a huge difference. As to the stem nut, the socket I bought off eBay proved to be about 1cm too short but after talking to the bike shop they suggested just doing it up by hand and making sure it's tight. So that's what I did!

I will ride the bike for a few (hundred?) miles then have another look at the stem nut and adjust if required. The two short test runs I've done show no head shake at any speeds and cornering is a whole new experience now that the front tyre can actually grip the road. So much more stable and I'm really looking forward to getting back out on the road. Got a 100+ mile journey to do in the morning!

I'll get some more pics up when I've sorted a new photo-handling site (imgur?)

My album has a picture of a socket I made welding two sockets together. If I remember correctly, I cut the point side, aligned with a nut and welded the two pieces together making it a very deep socket. Worked great.

Yeah, that would have been my next move. Might still have to if, when I recheck the stem nut, it needs major readjustment.

Getting back to the bearings.

How did you remove the bottom bearing race on the steering stem? IIRC it's almost as difficult as the bottom race in the steering head. So what was your solution?

What tapered bearings did you use? Was it a kit, or individual bearings? Do you recall the industrial numbers of the bearings?

Tim

Hey Cosmic,

In the end I decided to take it down to my local bike workshop to do it. They tried a load of heat to ease things off but had no luck so had to cut it off with a small grinding wheel (Dremel-style I assume). They did nick the top of the bottom yoke in doing so but out of sight, out of mind

I'm just back from a 100 mile run to London and back and am pretty much happy with the results. Tracks straight and true, the increase in stability through tighter corners is a revelation and I can amlost feel the front tyre gripping the road.

Here's the link to the place I bought the bearings from:

https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/steering-head-bearings-honda-fjs600-abs-silverwing-2003-p-321057.html

I did my head bearings on my KLV1000 a couple of months ago. I cut the bottom race off with a small grinding wheel also. Freezing overnight in the deep freeze helps the race installation in the frame.

I just got my tapered roller bearings and seal kit that I ordered online from Pyramid Parts
Worldwide. Look them up in your part of the world.

It is kit No. BR30 for my 2006 model Silver Wing. Cost me £28.74 including postage. Ordered Sunday and delivered Tuesday. Japanese made bearings stamped NTN.