Coolant Change Info?.... Anybody?

Time for a coolant flush,and wish I had a shop manual!
can anybody tell me what needs to be be taken off to flush!???

If it's like my goldwing, I'm thinking possibly lower cowel?...
remove bottom screw on water pump (?) ...(looks like on German manual???)

thanks for any help on this!
Rich

In my service manual it begins on page 4.

Includes the following NOTICE:

Using coolant with silicate corrosion inhibitors may cause premature wear of water pump seals or blockage of radiator passage [sic]. Using tap water may cause engine damage.

Remove right inner pocket and radiator cap.
Bike should be on the side stand during the draining.
Remove the drain bolt (on water pump - left side of engine forward of the drive belt case).
Remove reserve tank cap and drain reserve tank.
Reinstall drain bolt with new sealing washer.
Place scoot on center stand - level ground and all that.
Fill the reserve tank to the upper level line.
Fill the system with recommended coolant up to the filler neck.
Bleed air from the system by doing the following:
Start engine and let it idle for 2 - 3 minutes.
Crack open the throttle 3 to 4 times.
Stop the engine and add coolant to the system to the proper level.
Reinstall radiator cap.
Check the coolant level in the reserve tank and add if necessary.

Check with Helm inc. for a service manual - they are the only valid source for this copyrighted material - new. You can of course buy a valid used book from someone who is selling one. But, if buying from ebay - Any other book available such as a CD-ROM with a .pdf copy is most likely a scanned theft of copyright material. I'm a Technical Writer and the amount of effort that goes into developing a publication with technical descriptions, images, and illustrations is significant. You wouldn't want someone to steal your work and not compensate you would you? Be kind play by the rules. - My apologies for the rant.

Sweet! just the answer I was hoping for!!! thank you for Sharing!

I should have noted that it is page 4 of section six.

And, you're welcome.

Also when buying a manual. all our bikes are the same. no matter the year. So you dont need a book just for your year of bike.

Hi Guys,

There are quite few changes made to the electrical systems on the Silverwing from 2008 on up. So it might be worth your while to get the shop manual that goes with your year scooter.

Just a thought.

Dennis, the only manual Honda offered when I purchased my new 2008 last year was 2002-2008 manual. Have not really studied it yet to see if there are notes for different years yet though. The cost was $64. They dont have a book for a specific year.

Hi Jim,

I also have a 2008. Honda has been undating the new service manuals as the years go by.

If you buy a 2002 - 2006 service manual, it will not cover the wiring for the 2007 - 2009 Silverwing. Close...very close but no cigar. They have made changes to the scooters over the years.

O ok, then at least I hope you are telling me Honda sold me the right manual for my year SW, with the proper updates. Been too busy riding to read the manual since the first year I owned it, all service maintainance was paid for. This year I have to read the manual because I am not paying on the average between 350 to 500 per checkup that the dealer charges. The 16k checkup was a whopping 789 so I am going to read the manual and start doing my own maitainance on anything that I can.

I just changed my coolant about a month ago, and they what the service manual neglects to tell you it that it is very difficult, if not impossible, to get at the drain plug on the water pump without removing the lower skirt on that side. I was replacing the skirt at the same time (previous owner dropped the bike and scratched it that panel up), so I had it off anyway, but otherwise I think it would have been rather frustrating and much messier. With the skirt off, you have clear access to the bolt and the coolant can drain without making a mess (as always, be careful not to break any tabs if/when you take off the skirt).

edbancro,

It does not address that in the manual, but that makes sense as I look at the bike and so I've made that note in my book.

drain went good! I didnt take the skirt off, just took out 2 screws and a bolt,enough to pull it back a little and slip an opened wrench on!
Just losened and let coolant trickle out! No mess! straight down she went!
When it was done I took it all the way off,but no more came out!
(It's still on center stand! so I will have to put it on side stand to see if more comes out yet!)
Oil and Final drive done! Now I just have to flush the brakelines and
should be good to go!
Thanks again!!!

Anyone have pics of a coolant or brake line flush? Dale, thanks for the instructions on the coolant change. Could you possibly give instructions on a brake flush. Of course at your convenience. Thanks!

Brake system flushing is easy. Get a piece of vinyl tubing at a hardware store that will push fit on the bleeder nipple, 3' should be fine. Push one end of the tube onto the bleeder nipple and put the other end into a jar or can with enough fresh fluid to cover the end of the tube. Remove the top of the brake reservoir, crack the bleed screw open on the caliper and pump the fluid down in the reservoir with the brake lever. Don't fully empty the reservoir, keep it filled with fresh fluid and continue pumping the fluid down until clean fluid comes out at the bleeder. shut the bleeder screw, top off the reservoir and put the lid back on and you're done for that caliper. When doing the rear brake bleed the front linked caliper first then the rear caliper. Again don't let the reservoir go dry or you'll have to bleed out the air that will get into the system. Use only a freshly opened can of DOT4. Brake fluid is designed to absorb water to protect the system from corrosion so using a can of fluid that was opened for some time will likely introduce moisture into your brake system. Much better to use a fresh sealed can of fluid.

This could be of interest too

http://pages.infinit.net/mcrides/engine_tech/engine_coolant.htm

My next service job, along with the fork oil seals.

The local Honda dealer did not have the (6.5 mm) crush washer in stock. They might order some that will be in next week.. maybe..

The parts guy said "Just reverse the crush washer this time. That is what most people do."

I may try reversing the washer but was also wondering if 6.5 mm crush washers from other sources might not work - i.e. hardware store or car parts... Has anyone used a non-Honda crush washer for the coolant plug?

What is the outside dimension of the "6.5 mm" washer?

FWIW I never changed or reversed the crush washer when I changed the coolant in my SW

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum, I live in Brisbane, Queensland Australia, my questions are, does anyone know where I can buy a workshop manual for my 2009 Honda Silverwing FJS400 -also how do I drain & replace the coolant,any help would be greatly appreciated, Regards David.

x

Where does one dump used coolant ?

x

bigbird wrote:

tankyuong wrote:

Where does one dump used coolant ?

Our municipal sewage system is OK with used coolant.
Down the toilet with a flush afterwards.

Our area has a special recycling center where you dump used oil and coolant. (Separate containers.) The stuff is toxic to many animals.

Maybe your municipal system has a sewer rat problem and are trying to poison them??

I placed pictures of the Coolant drain plug and the access to the radiator cap in my picture album, in case anyone needs to look.

I did not see a way to drain the overflow tank so I used suction. Don't drink the stuff...

https://www.silverwing600.com/gallery/Personal-album-of-Ishkatan/Personal-album-of-Ishkatan-cat_c170.htm?user_id=961

My Silverwing is a 2003, and the anti-freeze looks good when I open the cap and looked at it. I bought it used last year, and I now have 11,000 miles on scooter. Should I change water hoses, clamps, and anti-freeze, etc. or is a 8 year old scooter ok without changing water hoses? I have already changed belt, rollers, rear end oil, oil & filter, and spar plugs. Should I even worry about hoses and anti-freeze, or just ride and enjoy it?

john harper wrote:

My Silverwing is a 2003, and the anti-freeze looks good when I open the cap and looked at it. I bought it used last year, and I now have 11,000 miles on scooter. Should I change water hoses, clamps, and anti-freeze, etc. or is a 8 year old scooter ok without changing water hoses? I have already changed belt, rollers, rear end oil, oil & filter, and spar plugs. Should I even worry about hoses and anti-freeze, or just ride and enjoy it?

I know this post is a couple months old now, but it is good question for newbies to consider. I'll throw some questions back at the owner: You say the coolant looks good, what brand is it? how old is it? does it meet Honda specs for the required coolant? Usually, new owners of used bikes cannot answer any of these questions. That's why whenever I buy a used bike, I change out the coolant regardless of how it looks. You just don't know what is really in there, and bad coolant can lead to problems.

Vic

Could the "new sealing washer" be purchased from Ace Hardware vs Honda?

Well....changed the coolant yesterday. Service manual says system takes 2.3 quarts. The most I could get in was 1.75 quarts (excluding the overflow tank). I drained the system on the side stand and even shook the scoot to get any extra out. Anyone else have this issue?

Boy...it really needed changing. Was dark and dirty looking.

yes, my coolant change took less than the manual indicates.
I use Honda parts, washers and coolant. In my opinion the few cents or dollars you might save with jury rigging and cheap fluids just risks problems. you have an aluminum rad. Want to buy a new one?

I recently changed the coolant in my 2005 Goldwing. The bike is 9 years old and I did not know all the history. Even with the new long-life formulas I felt better flushing and refilling with NEW long-life coolant. The coolant in my SWing still looks good so will probably wait another year or so then do same to it!   

I'm ready to change mine looking at the pic it seems the bolt just to the left of the 582 cm on the same plane is the coolant drain plug, correct? just below the hose clamp screw. YEP THAT'S IT   The compartment removal to get to the overflow container and cap was worse than the draining but searching found the answer, also like another poster draining SEEMED to stop until I removed the radiator cap then resumed alsop seemed to drain the overflow tank.

I cleaned the drive belt filter also, not to dirty for 8200 miles and 10 years.

The manual specifies silicate free anti-freeze. Looking at anti-freeze jugs at Walmart, I didn't see silicate on any of them as an ingredient, but they didn't say silicate free either. Are they OK or not? Thanks.

I think if it says it's safe for aluminum engines you'd be ok. If you're still not confident you could buy what the Honda dealer sells. Even it it cost a little more you only need to change it every two or three years. And if you're not close to a dealer it gives you an excuse for a ride.

I used Peak long-life coolant in my Goldwing. Claims to be silicate free and good for 100K. Also I am told buying coolant at Honda car dealer gets you the same stuff cheaper than the motorcycle dealer. Not sure on this though.

I could be wrong as I have been before but the newer antifreeze brands are compatible will all engines whether that means silicate free or not I'm not sure. Look at it this way modern engines contain more than just cast iron these days so an ALL engines product seems to make sense, no? AL