Drive faces

Doing some maintenance in preparation for a trip to Georgia mountains. Pulled the drive face off found grooves about .020 of an inch deep on the top and bottom.
Should I clean them up or just leave them alone? A new belt is going on.

Hi David.

Any chance of a couple of photo's please.
With 20k under it's belt it will show wear marks, although there's no tolerance limits in the manual covering it. Mine has 20k+ miles on it, and showing wear marks but runs just fine despite my tinkering and tweaking, hence the request for photo's.

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen!

That's only about 0.5mm, I wouldn't worry about. CVT's are pretty much self adjusting.

The pulley faces should always be sanded down slightly to smooth down any ridges or wear pattern left by old belt, it's kind of like smoothing out "The Bumps in the Road" for the new belt, also helps new belt "Break-In" quicker and establish its own wear pattern. I use a flat sanding block with new 150 grit sandpaper, just sand in a random/even pattern, at a minimum rough up with some red Scotch Brite pad.
Obviously clean all belt contact areas.

BTW, less than 1 hour away if you need a hand, LMK.

Here are some pics

Hi David.

OOOH.....
Thanks for the pictures, is it 2 pictures of the same drive face, or 1 of each drive face?
Either way it looks to me as if someone's been rather aggressive with the throttle using a well stretched belt for some time. The grooving being caused by the reinforcement added to the middle of the drive belt, hence the 2 distinct marks and the darker area (belt burn/slipping) under the outer circle.
A quick google found an OEM in Japan (only the driven side) hence the  ? about the photos, are both faces as bad? Your not going to clean those marks out in a hurry.
Just my personal opinion and not an invite for a bun fight!
Maybe go for second hand units.
There were 2 swings being dismantled state side the other week (listed on here).

Hope this helps.
Be safe, be seen!

FYI, in the USA at online retailers like Ron Ayers,  etc., The 2 front pulley faces are approx. $100 usd, rear 2 are approx. $200, NEW !, I know this because I've purchased/have them in my squirrel stash.

Separate drive faces. I thought they were a little too deep. I have the ability to machine them smooth again. It appears that there is enough meat to do it. Any thoughts? If the same angle is maintained it should all find it's way... I think The belt that is on it is still within service limits and passes visual inspection. So I assume this was done prior to to the install of this belt. I've put about 2000 mi. on it since I bought it and I'm all about steady and smooth!

I haven't even looked at the rear I'm Afraid very afraid...

Firstly, thanks for the insight zrx212, wish it was that easy in the UK.

Hi David, the back pair should be ok, it's only the front that will suffer from Blunt Force Impact due to the nature of how the front Variator works.
Seems you have alternatives, either machine it out a little, buy second hand, or buy new (Ref zrx212).
Let us know how you get on.

Be safe, be seen!

If you have a way to bring scooter to my home in the "Silver Springs Shores" area (Southeast Ocala, about 1hr. away). I'll be more than happy to get your cvt  squared away. Really need to look at all pulley faces, etc., but unless the damage is very critical, most are reusable with some sanding, etc. Just cover any consumables, cleaners, sandpaper, etc.

BTW, I have plenty parts JIC ...

BTW, any machining work on pulleys probably cost more than parts, local machine shops are a rarity nowadays.

Thank you for the great input. It's always good to bounce things off of those with greater experience. zrx212 I'll PM you.

Here is the finished product after machining and sanding. Worked out well. Only took about .018 off of each face. I'll let you know how it works out Figured I saved about $250 -#300.

OK I don't see the pics..

I'd be interested to see how it works out. Mine are showing signs of similar wear. Keep us posted.

" Here is the finished product after machining and sanding. Worked out well. Only took about .018 off of each face. I'll let you know how it works out Figured I saved about $250 -#300. "

Theoretically cutting the faces will allow belt to sit lower in the front pulley, possibly giving you overall lower gearing, better acceleration ?, lower top speed ?, the best way to check how the cut/sand affects operation is to drive it, you can also make a "Sharpie" stripe on pulley face to see the actual belt travel range. BTW, both front pulleys retail for $64.08 + $37.32 = $101.40 + tax + shipping at Ron Ayers today (USA).

Few important details when reassembling the cvt.

1. Make sure you hold the inner variator pulley assy. fully collapsed as you slide into engine shaft, don't let rollers move out of place.
2. Never allow the belt to bind in the front pulleys while tightening/torquing bolt, otherwise you may get a false tight !! if you bind on belt, collapse belt into rear pulley as needed to loosen, should be able to spin rear pulley and belt move freely on front pulley, this video may help.
3. The variator bolt + washer should be lightly oiled if you are "properly torquing"    
4. A very, very light coat of high temp grease is all you need on variator bushing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYd9AmiHMRc

UPDATE: I did the work above, replaced the slider weights with Dr Pulley 26gm weights, replaced the belt and replaced the front wheel bearings.
Time for a ride! A noticeable increase in acceleration and smoothness. Rode about 15 - 20 miles rpm's at 60mph were a little lower. I'm happy. We have a trip planned for the N GA mountains next month. That will be the real test. Now if I can get the rear wheel off - it's leaking!

Great News on the CVT fix!! , Bad news on tire!!, maybe this helps.

This tire removal video applies to no muffler O2 sensor models (2002-2007 USA), O2 sensor equipped (2008+ USA) must gain access/disconnect green plug behind RH side cover.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsyncE3VXGM