Replaced belt and added 26g Dr. Pulley Sliders

I swapped out the old belt that JeffR was so kind to send me so I could get back on the road and get back home. I also put in 26g sliders and used Blaster dry lube (bought from Home Depot) on the ramps and plate.

I had trouble getting the front half of the variator pulley back on the spline but luckily I was able to get Cosmic Jumper on the horn, then used a ratchet and socket to just slowly work the pulley on while rotating the variator. One thing I noticed that my "OEM" Honda belt ($107.99 plus shipping) that I had bought from an online Honda parts dealer turned out to be a Mitsuboshi! Grrr... at least it wasn't as expensive as the Mitsuboshi kevlar belts I've seen online.

I had been getting 31 to 33mpg when I was coming home from my trip -- this was with giant Nelson Rigg touring saddlebags, a seatbag and a large Givi shield and my Pirelli Diablo tires at 36 front and 40 back, going an average of 75mph actual (GPS, not speedo). I was anxious to see what changing the belt and sliders would get me, especially without the saddlebags.

My riding preference is fast and far, i.e. lots of highway and interstate and expressway riding, so I wanted to see my mileage with my new setup and the large Givi shield. On the way to the PA turnpike, I noticed an immediate difference with the lighter sliders (stock is 28g rollers) -- I had more low end and reached 4000rpm very quickly, roughly just around 4mph. I hopped onto the turnpike and went about 50 miles west keeping the tachometer at 6000rpm with speeds between 75 and 83mph. I then got gas and found that I got 37mpg. Not as bad as before, but not quite as good as I had hoped. I did notice though that I had so much more power and that Senora was very happy at 80mph whereas before she preferred 73mph. I still had that reserve of power where I could blast past anyone if I needed to and her acceleration was noticeably faster.

On my way back, I rode at 5500rpm or roughly 69 to 73mph. I ended up with about 40mpg.

I went back home and took off the Givi shield and put the stock one back on. I hate how that one throws all the air into my head, but I want to see how it affects my mileage. I'll have to try that one tomorrow.

Any ideas on what else I should check to improve my mileage? I haven't replaced my oil (ended up with Rotella T6 synthetic heavy duty 5w40 oil from Pep Boys) or spark plugs yet or tried to clean my air filter yet (K&N, installed by a dealer, not me). I know some folks have had difficulty getting the air filter to fit so I probably need to see how they did it or IF they actually got it in there properly.

Hammy, check your speedometer. It should be between 55-65 mph.

If you do that, I am sure your mpg will climb very close to 50.

Glad the repairs went well and got you home safe and sound.

Philip

You might try running some sort of fuel injector cleaner for a couple of tanks (I've used SeaFoam with reasonably good success), especially if the bike has had any long periods of sitting in it's life.

I have no idea about how long it was sitting but I'm sure it was for several months. I've put 6600 miles on my Swing since June 12, 2010 so I do tend to ride hard and fast and far. I wasn't expecting to get mileage in the 30-45mpg range though... I'm gonna switch out the plugs (I have burned out a new plug before on my previous bike doing 4800 miles in 9 days) and try to figure out how to use that gap tool (I ended up with one of those circular ones from Walmart for $2).

By the way, for those of you who would know, would this oilcan work for putting in the final drive oil? http://www.amazon.com/Plews-50-337-Handled-Oiler-Flexible/dp/B000CCM4ZK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1281373190&sr=8-3

I got 50mpg yesterday with my stock shield (with plenty of phwoosh in the face) going mostly 25 to 40mph with a 2 mile stretch of 55mph. Will see what it is after replacing the plugs and trying out that seafoam thing -- where does one buy that? My Pep Boys doesn't carry it nor have I seen that at Wal Mart.

Hammy wrote:

...and trying out that seafoam thing -- where does one buy that? My Pep Boys doesn't carry it nor have I seen that at Wal Mart.

Northern Tool has been the cheapest local place I've found. At least one of my local Wal-Marts has it, so you may want to try a different one (I think the one that carries it here is a Super WM). Advanced Auto also usually has it.

Also, it sounds like you liked the 26g sliders on the highway - are they good around town, too? If you had it to do again, do you think you'd still go with the 26s or would you try the 28s instead?

Hammy wrote:

By the way, for those of you who would know, would this oilcan work for putting in the final drive oil? http://www.amazon.com/Plews-50-337-Handled-Oiler-Flexible/dp/B000CCM4ZK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1281373190&sr=8-3

It is similar to the oil can I use except my spout comes out of the side not the top.

If you get that can you would have to turn the oil can sideways (it may leak on the seal) while pumping into the Final Drive oil hole.

It looks like the tube is flexible. Another one I was considering was one of these pistol type ones. http://www.amazon.com/Dutton-Lainson-606-Pistol-Oiler/dp/B000LNSJ7W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1281383654&sr=8-8
but that tube is fixed?

Hammy wrote:

It looks like the tube is flexible. Another one I was considering was one of these pistol type ones. http://www.amazon.com/Dutton-Lainson-606-Pistol-Oiler/dp/B000LNSJ7W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1281383654&sr=8-8
but that tube is fixed?

This is the one that I have, and it works perfectly. Holds just about the exact amount of oil. I got mine at Walmart in the auto dept. Don't remember the exact price, but cheap.

Hammy wrote:

It looks like the tube is flexible. Another one I was considering was one of these pistol type ones. http://www.amazon.com/Dutton-Lainson-606-Pistol-Oiler/dp/B000LNSJ7W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1281383654&sr=8-8
but that tube is fixed?

That is the same as mine ... it will work fine.

Hammy:
If you were getting only 30 some mpg, then there must be something wrong. I have the tall Givi windscreen, a big topcase, and I weigh about 235; and even when I use a lot of full throttle acceleration (FTA) and triple digit speed, the worst mpg I have ever gotten is about 43 mpg.

Have you checked the spark? Are you sure that both plugs are firing? At my last service, about 300 miles ago, I put on some iridium spark plugs (along with new rollers for my JCosta and a new drive belt). I know that some people say that the iridium plugs are a waste of money, but my experience is different. My bike seems to like the hotter spark. It even sounds different - like it has crisper ignition. And it feels like it has a little snappier/quicker throttle response. I am still getting around 48 mpg, so my mpg didn't suffer from the change.

Good luck with your bike.

I guess I'll find out once I switch the plugs. Never done it before and I don't have a torque wrench. Do all of you use a torque wrench or is there a way to just tighten by hand?

I do not have a torque wrench either. I have always just used a socket wrench and been very careful not to over tighten them. I know - lame.

Another thing. If you switch to the Iridium plugs DO NOT attempt to set the gap. Don't even touch the ends where the spark comes from. This will screw up the plugs. They come pre set for your bike. You need to put the extenders on the top and just screw them in.

What extenders do u mean? The stuff that comes in the toolkit that you use to remove the plug?

Hi Hammy, On new plugs there are these metal ring gaskets that need to be crushed to get a good seal. When installing new plugs without a torque wrench one must keep in mined that the heads are aluminum and you must be careful. If they just don't screw in with your fingers DON'T FORCE THEM. Just back them out and make sure the threads are clean on the plugs and try it again. Once you get the plugs screwed in all the way to the new gaskets, tighten the plugs ONE more turn to just crush the new gaskets. SNUG is the word.

Do not over tighten the plugs.

Tech tip: You can use a 4" piece of old fuel line to help get the plugs started into the heads. Just push the fuel line over the plug end and turn the plug with the fuel line and then pull the fuel line off when you get the plug started.

Hope this helps or just get a torque wrench, your going to need one.

Rats... guess it's back to Pep Boys I go!

Hammy, If you get a torque wrench, get one that can go up to 120 foot pounds. THAT SHOULD COVER ALL THE TORQUE NEEDS ON THE SCOOTER.

Another tech tip:
Use a small dab of antisieze on the threads of each plug. I use copper antisieze. They also sell "regular" silver colored antisieze and you can also buy nickel antisieze. Nickel is usually specified for gas turbine aircraft engines.

As asked above, the "extenders" are small cylinders that screw over the threaded post on the opposite (plug wire) end of the spark plug. The plug wire caps press over these "extenders", not the threaded post of the spark plug. The plugs come with these "extenders" in the box. You have to screw them onto the posts before installing the plugs.

Hammy, you know any excuse to go to a parts store is a good one. We're like women and shoe stores. Shoot, in this hot weather, I'll take any excuse to go to a hardware store to have a look around. Might find something I didn't need. Uh, I mean, simething I didn't know I needed. That's how I wound up with my swing. The best "just looking" I ever did. +1 on using the antisieze, especially when it comes time to take them out.

Man, I've gone back and forth to the Pep Boys just about 3 times tonight. Note to self: figure out what I need to get BEFORE going to the store, and make sure I check that I actually have what I THINK I have.

24mm socket does NOT come with my toolkit (for the oil change)! Looks like I now have to find antiseize as well...

Hi Hammy, Just a quick note: If you buy a 24mm socket for the drain plug, besure to get one that has 6 flats (points), not 12. Alot of good people have stripped that plug using a 12 points socket on that aluminum plug. Any good tool shop will have a 24mm, 3/8" drive, 6 point, Impact socket.

DennisB wrote:

Hi Hammy, Just a quick note: If you buy a 24mm socket for the drain plug, besure to get one that has 6 flats, not 12. Alot of people strip that plug using a 12 flats on a aluminum cover.

Unless you buy an impact socket, it's pretty difficult to find a 6 point 24mm socket. At least that's my experience up here in Canada.

Hammy, If you can't find one in your area, I know where to get them in Tulsa, and I could send you one.

OR

EBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Allen-35124-1-2-Drive-6-pt-Impact-Socket-24mm-USA-/390183311937?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

DennisB wrote:

Hammy, If you can't find one in your area, I know where to get them in Tulsa, and I could send you one.

OR

EBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Allen-35124-1-2-Drive-6-pt-Impact-Socket-24mm-USA-/390183311937?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

Man, that's cheap. Any links on a 24mm 6 point non-impact, Dennis? In Canada I can get one from Sears for $8.

Hammy:
Since the plugs sit down in a recessed area, the spark plug wires have extra long leads. That is what I meant by extenders.

Wow I am learning a lot from you guys. Thanks!!!

Just remember to pass it all on when the time comes.