Variator and Belt Pictorial

First topic message reminder :

Hi,

Like the spark plug pictorial I did about a year ago, I also did one for the changing of the belt and pins on my J. Costa variator.

If you read this over you should have no problem doing this work yourself. The pictures provide a step-by-step "Pictorial" on how go change out the belt and the pins of the J. Costa. If you are changing out the rollers of your stock variator this will guide you through it too.

Ride safe,

JeffR

john123 wrote:

I pushed the belt on to the lower part of the clutch and turned the variator by hand as far as I could, tightening the belt and then put my shoe on the belt and pressed the starter button, just for a second. It slipped on like a champ and I was able to tighten down the bolt to the proper specks turning the belt a few times along the way.

Is your method kinda like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQhfcdQf1QA

x

Thanks JeffR for the tutorial.
I'm actually going to be replacing the black outer trans cover (the larger one with the filter inside forward of the round one that has the Honda name plate on it) as it developed a stress crack that is growing. I was wondering if it is at all possible to undo the four bolts that hold it on without removing the passenger foot-peg assembly. I almost think I could get a small socket wrench to remove the front most bolt that sits under the foot peg assembly. Usually removal of anything that involves clips and tabs like the upper one with the hole in it are a pain. Or is the peg removal & re-installation easy as pie?

"Or is the peg removal & re-installation easy as pie?"
Yes it is.

Bill,

I'm glad the pictorial is helpful. I would just remove it since it only takes about 2-3 minutes and then you have plenty of room to get to the other bolts. But like Roger said..it is very easy to remove and it is very quick too.

model28a wrote:

"Or is the peg removal & re-installation easy as pie?"
Yes it is.

In one word - YES!

Two allen bolts. Simples.

Thanks guys for your replies. I guess I was concerned about the parts of the peg assembly that tuck under the bike like the clip and the upper tab that you must press against, knowing, of course, that the allen screws would be the easy part. But if y'all say it's going to be easy then I'll take your word for it. I probably will receive the new trans cover Monday or Tuesday and then install it. Now I'm wondering how the old one could have developed a crack running from the top downward on the upper narrow part. I'm thinking the culprit may be the gazillion speed bumps I have to go over now that I've moved into a new home development. I think I've gone over them slow but had a few pop up and surprise me early on.

x

Guys, now I'm thinking of going in to change out the rollers to sliders. I was wondering if there were any pics of the change using a stock variator as this pictorial shows the procedure with a J Costa variator. I'm especially interested in zoning in on the variator removal procedure. From there I can see the other thread with the link to Buggy Parts NW's tutorial on the slider installation. It looks like I'll have to get a torque wrench and be real careful tearing down through the tranny to avoid re-installing anything wrong or damaging the belt.

Thanks for the pictorial! I used a custom-fabricated holder (made by someone other than me, but looks similar to the non-universal Honda variator tool) to hold it while removing the variator with a hand ratchet. I wouldn't hit the crank, and thus valve train with a hammer, so I won't use an impact wrench - too many bearings and precision machined surfaces to essentially hit it with a hammer - plus I won't save any money if I damage any of that!

I think it's much better to just find a way to hold the front pulley. That bolt shouldn't be too tight - it doesn't call for any threadlock compound, plus over torquing that UBS bolt is Very Bad (so is undertorqing it) according to my mechanic overseer - it's not a standard bolt, and over tightening ruins it (it probably won't resist loostening even if you fix the torque later - you need a new bolt if you've ever overtightened it), and of course under tightening doesn't let it work right (hence the importance of oiling the threads when installing it - if you don't, you won't get the extremely accurate torque a UBS bolt needs to do its' job).

I'm sure plenty of Honda mechanics hit it with an impact wrench, and obviously the bike can survive the ordeal. But I still don't think it's a good idea. I think Honda would be fine telling their dealerships and others to use an impact wrench (since it would save significant time) if it didn't matter.

As for the clutch nut, I had no problem with using the parking brake + main brake (left handle) to hold the wheel to get it off. I used a helper, but I could have used some zip ties to hold the brake lever. There definitely was threadlock on that bolt, as it broke free quite suddenly.

Hi

This is my first post on this forum! - Thanks for the fantastic pictorial for the belt change - I have 36000 miles on my 2008' Silverwing and I don't think the belt has ever been replaced as I bought it with 10000 miles on the clock - so before the first change was due!..

I have been pretty nervous about breaking down on a commute and was unsure of how to tackle the belt change - so thanks to this guide, I will be doing the change tomorrow!!

Cheers from Ireland!

Galway,

I'm glad the pictorial can help you out. It is a pretty simple job but just takes an hour or so to get the job done. Just make sure you have the tools available and you will be fine.

Hi all I know this must seam like groundhog day but I've never changed a scooter drive belt before. This thread mentions a pictorial but I can't see any and the only link present takes me off to another sites home page. All the rear end is apart ready for the deep winter clean. New shocks are already on (yss) and all plastics getting machine polished. So the belt is it just nut off drive face removed belt on and gun the nut up. Why do some people run the engine blip the revs then re tighten etc. Many thanks mrmoz.

Mrmoz wrote:

Hi all I know this must seam like groundhog day but I've never changed a scooter drive belt before. This thread mentions a pictorial but I can't see any and the only link present takes me off to another sites home page. All the rear end is apart ready for the deep winter clean. New shocks are already on (yss) and all plastics getting machine polished. So the belt is it just nut off drive face removed belt on and gun the nut up. Why do some people run the engine blip the revs then re tighten etc. Many thanks mrmoz.

mrmoz

the search bar should throw up other links but a quick Google search shows this as the latest video posted.

https://youtu.be/bR6ZYzfW_4U

I'm sure others can talk you through step by step if required but Ii would say if your not confident in your ability ask someone whose done it before to show you or dare I say a dealer???

Basically your getting the belt to the correct tension (as you would a chain drive bike, to loose it will slip off overtighten it may well shred)

Don't forget to change pulleys and sliders without in the scoots bowels

Hello. Yes, evidently the "Pictorial" has evaporated into history.

Please don't use a gun to tighten the variator bolt. A gun is okay to remove the bolt, but please use a proper torque wrench and holding tool when reassembling the works.

The reason some folks bump the engine when the variator bolt is tightened is so that the belt doesn't get pinched and the pulley half goes on straight.

Here is another link to a belt replacement video wherein the owner is using a simple home made variator holding tool and proper hand tools: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dq4Y2rEJdSw

And here's a link for making that variator holding tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIVAimvORFI

Oh, and don't forget to clean the belt case filter too. The Variator and Driven Pulley system needs air flow to help it run "cool".

Tim

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m7jED5EkGIOj_ee8CPOtwZ_YWxX14uP0/view?usp=sharing

I hope this works and everyone who wants/needs it can see it. I also hope this is what you are looking for.

And now that my SWing is a trike I'll have to make a new variator tool. Oh Well. No biggie. Fun in the garage.

Hi thanks for the quick response to my post the video is really good and easy to follow. Iam quite confident on the spanners I do all my own servicing on my car so this shouldn't be to much of a problem. My belt came with new rollers as well so they will be changed to. The bike has only done 13k miles in 10 years but rear shocks looked awful and really rusty the new 1s look brilliant. Belt going on this weekend after I've watched this video a few more times. Thanks again.

Don't rush it, don't worry, be happy.