Been a busy boy today, part 2

The Givi Airflow arrived this morning, so began part 2 of the old girls update.

Having read the advice on changing the final drive oil, I bought a suitable oil can this morning. I changed the final drive oil with no problems.

Then, having again read of how others on here faired (no pun intended) I proceeded to fit the screen. I must say, if I had tried to fit the screen just following Givi's instructions, I would still be sitting beside the Swing, scratching my head!!!

The template/brackets supplied lined up perfectly and after drilling the 2 holes per side, were bolted on with the bolts in the kit. The lower screen lined up perfectly and took only a few minutes to fit. The upper screen is a few seconds to fit. Job done.

I then removed the temporary water hose I fitted yesterday and replaced it with a length of car water hose that I purchased this morning. Finally, I drained the cooling system again and refilled with antifreeze/distilled water.

Out of interest, when I removed the lower hose to replace it, I drained the coolant, fitted the new hose and then took out the drain bolt, again following advice from these pages, not removing the floorboards but just a few screws and bolts to allow pulling the floorboard forward enough to get to the drain bolt. When I removed the drain bolt very little coolant came out so I think next time, I wouldn't bother with the drain bolt removal but instead, just remove one end of the short hose near the oil filter and put on the side stand.

It started pouring with rain so I decided it was the perfect time for a test run. I only went about 8 miles but I love the screen. In the lowest position I had a good airflow over my head and upper body, then fully up, I was looking through the screen, which I prefer when it's raining. The screen is very easy to adjust, even whilst riding (Yes, I know!!!)

All in all, I'd say the screen is the best I've used on any machine, let's hope I still think that after a few weeks use.

goldwinger wrote:

Out of interest, when I removed the lower hose to replace it, I drained the coolant, fitted the new hose and then took out the drain bolt, again following advice from these pages, not removing the floorboards but just a few screws and bolts to allow pulling the floorboard forward enough to get to the drain bolt. When I removed the drain bolt very little coolant came out so I think next time, I wouldn't bother with the drain bolt removal but instead, just remove one end of the short hose near the oil filter and put on the side stand.

Good tip for others changing out their coolant.

goldwinger wrote:

When I removed the drain bolt very little coolant came out

I will have to research later, but could the very little coolant be due to a bubble in the coolant line??

honda_silver wrote:

I will have to research later, but could the very little coolant be due to a bubble in the coolant line??

As I see it the coolant hose that he opened near the oil filter is low enough to have almost all the engine coolant drain out. The small volume of coolant remaining between the hose fitting and the coolant drain plug is all that should come out once the drain plug is opened.
Again, that small volume is insignificant if changing coolant and adding the same Honda factory premix. However, if you're changing coolant types, then a complete fresh water flush, draining from the drain plug, and then refilling would be my recommendation.

bigbird wrote:

As I see it the coolant hose that he opened near the oil filter is low enough to have almost all the engine coolant drain out. The small volume of coolant remaining between the hose fitting and the coolant drain plug is all that should come out once the drain plug is opened.

I am not questioning where to drain.

The concern comes from someone who did a coolant change and the coolant failed to circulate due to bubble in the line. They were able to eventually remove the bubbles ( will have to find how to detect and how to resolve) and then the coolant circulated.

If the coolant does not circulate properly, then you could overheat then engine.

honda_silver wrote:

They were able to eventually remove the bubbles ( will have to find how to detect and how to resolve) and then the coolant circulated.

The air bleeding procedure is in the service manual. Very simple. With the bike on the centre stand remove the rad cap, idle engine and blip the throttle every 30s to expel any air through the rad cap opening. Do this for 3-4 minutes.
Air in the cooling system will manifest itself through overheating.