Cree LED Running Lights

Another thread on here prompted me to PM a reply as I didn't want to highjack the thread.

The running lights I have installed are these..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20W-12V-1600LM-CREE-LED-Light-Rally-Ranger-4x4-Dirt-ATV-/250868768779?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a68f1a00b

They are powered via a remote controlled dimmer which has about six levels, the lowest is ideal for daylight running, the highest gives a very bright even flood of light which I would say is better that that given off by the main (high - brights) beam.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-Remote-LED-Light-Single-Color-RF-Dimmer-Controller-Control-12-24V-8A-/290812717846?pt=UK_Light_Fittings&hash=item43b5c9eb16

These are on Ebay UK as I reside over on the other side of the pond but the sellers ship world wide.

Cheers,

Can those light be installed without the remote control and set the light setting manually ,like for night time use only.If not where did you instal the box connection to hide it. Do you have pics.

Hello Tinman,

Lights cannot be set manually. They would illuminate at full intensity which believe me gets more flashes from oncoming traffic than having your headlights on main beam.

Standing in front of the scooter, my control box is in the right hand side panel. Tucked in so it won't fall out. The actual remote control is on my key ring. Never had any problems getting the remote to work from there.

Between the main beam plug and the control box I have fitted an online fuse.
I have also fitted an online fuse between the plug and the main beam which acts as a switch for the main beam.
Using the main beam power means I can use the scooter's switches to switch on / off the cree leds and also flash them. They flash at full intensity so it tends to get people's attention.

Cheers,

Diagram from the manual.

Cheers,

Found the 24 W and remote on Amazon for $ 65. each and $7 for the remote there was also a 12 W for $45.each . When riding at night,can they work with Hight and Low beam with the Swing switch? without using the remote to adjust the setting.

Read your post again and saw that you connected with Hight beam switch.I was going to use the 12 V plug in the left side glove box .Not want to spice in a power to the Hight beam.

Hello Tinman,

Main Beam = 55 watts, 2x Cree LED = 40 watts. So no overload on the Silverwing's wiring. If you don't ride a lot at night I think you will find the main beam redundant, in fact the Cree LEDs give a better illumination (IMO).
If I can come up with a good illustration of how I wired mine I will post it, but it may take me some time.

Cheers,

First of all you can probably guess I'm not an electrical engineer so I don't have the correct

symbols.
Colours of wires are NOT as per Honda. Live can easily be established using meter or test light.

Red Line = Power / Feed / Live
Black Line = Earth
Green box (F) = Inline fuse (10 amp is ample) (you need two of these).
Blue Box (CB) = Control Box
Black Box = Cree Lights
Purple Box = Main Beam Lamp

Wires Earth & Power are the Silverwing wires going to the main beam. These wires need to be cut allowing enough wire at each of the four ends to allow you to solder connect the inline fuses

(red) and additional earth wires (black) to the control box and the original lamp.
Make sure the wires to the control box are long enough to allow you to tuck the control box
inside the inside of the side panel.

The inline fuses act as switches, if you dont want them on just take the switch out. If you are worried about overloading the wiring then use one fuse and swap between cree or original lamp.

When I can find them I will post pictures of what I used.

Cheers,

At the moment I am running a 250 W amp for my stereo system ,a CD player with Batteries ,Oxford Hetzer grip,stop LED light on Givi top box . Next month Im getting a Trigg trike kit with stop, brake ,running light,for when I ride with my Pillion,and will ride 2 wheels when I ride solo.Im not sure If my system can handle the extra running light. I could do without the trike light If a have to. I will try to figure It out Before I order the trike kit.I could use the extra lights in the front,last year I mist hitting a moose by 1 or 2 seconds,ouch.They are more than 2 times the size of my Swing.

Tinman,

You can connect these lights up in place of your main beam, that way you would be saving about 15 watts compared to the standard main beam bulb.

250w amp - the 250w refers to the rms (root mean square) music power. What rating is the fuse protecting your amplifier? That will give you a better understanding of how much power it is using. (Multiply voltage by the fuse, if it was 250 watts then the fuse would have to be 20 amp).
If the trike kit lights are LED then you won't be adding a large load on the system.

Cheers,

The Shark 250 watt has a 5 amp fuse rating, Not sure on the Oxford Heatzer grips fuse rating.I will look for the instruction .

The Oxford Heatzer has 48 watts 4 amp .

The alternator produce 441 watt at 5000 rpm .How much does the Swing need in normal use ,and what is left for doing the rest of the mods.

Tinman,

My guess would be lower than 120 watts (including lights), so that is plenty left for what you are running. As I have said before you can replace the main beam with the Cree LEDs so you are dropping the required power.

Cheers,

Thank's for the information tarmacburner 2 , I would prefer to leave the main beam on . I look at the rear light option for the Trigg kit and I can get just rear running lights they are LED lights.I will look into see if the stop ,running and turn signal light use the LED system .Cree LED also make a 12 W 1400 LM that might do it for me for the amount of times I do night riding.