Alignment and Cupping

So I had my frined who is an experience rider ride my bike. He said that my alignment is off. He said he needs to keep pulling the handle bar to the right since the bike wants to go left. We inspected the handle bars and the fork and they are straight. I noticed that theres cupping on the fron tires. I checked the tire pressure and it only had 20psi. Could this be the problem? Should I change the tires? The previous owner just changed the tires a few months ago with michelin tires

Thanks

Low tire pressure is probably the number one culprit in handling problems. You should check tire pressure frequently and top up when low. 20 is not a good number, more like 29-32 or more. I don't know about Michelins, but my Hoops ( Bridgestone) are wearing quite well. I watch them like a hawk, and also my tire pressure. For all the time and effort that it takes, it should be done prior to every ride. I am surprised your experienced friend did not do that or suggest it to you.

Steering pulling to the left,is a sign that the bearing is loose and needs to be tighten and greece. It can be confirm by raising the wheel of the ground.The steering will go to the left dew to the weight of the rooter and the caliber being on the left side.A head shake is also a sign of a loose  bearing. Your tire will need to be replace If excess cupping is present .

On a level surface, put your bike on the center stand, lift the front wheel off the ground. Turn the handle lock-to-lock.  Replace the head bearing and race if you feel any indents.  If the bike was involved in a frontal accident, the head bearing or race may be cracked. If your bike has a lot of miles (50k), the head bearing may be worn and need to be replaced.

tinman wrote:

Steering pulling to the left,is a sign that the bearing is loose and needs to be tighten and greece.

Greece the bearings? I would be more prone to Spain or Italy the bearings.

The problem could be a head bearing that needs retorquing and relubing. Unfortunately cupping is normal on any bike, the heavier and harder ridden the faster cupping shows up. It's the same thing as scalloping on auto tires though the dynamics are a bit different. Cupping shows up on both tires though usually first on the rear tire. If you look at a rear tire that has a few thousand miles on it from the right angle, about 45 degrees to the long axis of bike you'll see the tread takes the shape of a saw blade. In other words one edge of each transverse groove will have one edge higher than the opposing side. Both braking and acceleration cause this to happen though on a SW it's more likely braking did most of the cupping. High powered motorcycles usually cup the opposite way from acceleration.
There's a good bit of information on motorcycle tire wear on Rattlebars website. Good stuff there and it applies to Silverwings as much as it applies to motorcycles. Check out the link below:

http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html

Front end alignment on scooter? you friend should get some experience. Cupping happens with some combinations. Are the tires on the bike those recommended by Honda?


Top box,, load balance, rider can cause pulling or crash/tip over damage might be there, too. how old is bike?

Japanese bikes, the grease in steering head bearings hardens with time----shot of WD40 with tube applicator sometimes works.

Bike is a 2003 with 30K miles. I just acquired it last month but wasn't operational. I just put in a new engine two weeks ago.

I'll change the bearing this weekend and put some new greese. Should I replace the tires?


Thanks

tinman wrote:

Steering pulling to the left,is a sign that the bearing is loose and needs to be tighten and greece. It can be confirm by raising the wheel of the ground.The steering will go to the left dew to the weight of the rooter and the caliber being on the left side.A head shake is also a sign of a loose  bearing. Your tire will need to be replace If excess cupping is present .

Thanks. Any suggestions where should I buy the bearing? Also do I replace the head bearing or just the wheel bearing or both?

Inspected the front again and I definitely need new front tires. Might be the original? The rear is new. Bridgestone B02. Should I get the same make and model?

You can tell if the wheel bearing is bad by putting a long screw driver on the axle , and the handle to your ear to listen for any grinding ,or spin the bearing with your finger to feel any grinding going on.the steering bearing can be tighten by hand using the pin spanner in your tool pouch ,and removing the front cowling for access to the bearing nut .You also need a fish scale to put on the fork nut to gauge 9 lbs pressure to turn the steering from left to right. A new tire might be all you need to solve the problem.Other s remove the right side pocket to get to the steering lock nut.

The man said he only had 20 psi in the front tire. Why screw around with bearings and other complicated issues when it would only take two minutes to add air???

Hopefully the OP will add air and report the results to us. After all, how many owners have had head bearing issues?

PS - look up leroybeal.net (maybe.com). He has a real simple process to bring the tire back to uncupped state.

Here is the link to shaving the tire.
http://leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/tireshaving/shavedtires.html

Do the easy things that you know are needed, first. You believe a new front tire is warranted, so replace that and see what changes. (Ensure you get it balanced)
It would be a good idea to stay with same brand if you believe rear tire is still good. It's amazing how much new tires will improve riding and handling.

Thanks everyone. I added tires last week and drove it yesterday. I cant tell the difference. How do I know if its out of alignment?

As for the tires the front needs replacing since it has some cracking on the sidewall. The rear tire is still new

batiatus wrote:

Thanks everyone. I added tires last week and drove it yesterday. I cant tell the difference. How do I know if its out of alignment? ...

 
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that you have added air to the tires?
 
As for your alignment question.  There really is no alignment like you may know it regarding a car or any other FOUR (4) wheeled vehicle.
 
Cupping front tires on the Silverwing are the nature of the beast it seems.  Keep the tire pressures in the acceptable range and change the tire when it is needed.

Drove the wing over the weekend for 30 miles. Seems like I have to keep on pulling the handle bar to the right, or might just be me since Im not use to it.

batiatus wrote:

Drove the wing over the weekend for 30 miles. Seems like I have to keep on pulling the handle bar to the right, or might just be me since Im not use to it.

I still say: On a level surface, put your bike on the center stand, lift the front wheel off the ground. Turn the handle lock-to-lock.  Replace the head bearing and race if you feel any indents.  If the bike was involved in a frontal accident, the head bearing or race may be cracked like mine. If your bike has a lot of miles (50k), the head bearing may be worn and need to be replaced.  Replace with the ALL BALLS roller bearings. They have a larger surface then the ball bearings.

WingMan02 wrote:

batiatus wrote:

Drove the wing over the weekend for 30 miles. Seems like I have to keep on pulling the handle bar to the right, or might just be me since Im not use to it.

I still say: On a level surface, put your bike on the center stand, lift the front wheel off the ground. Turn the handle lock-to-lock.  Replace the head bearing and race if you feel any indents.  If the bike was involved in a frontal accident, the head bearing or race may be cracked like mine. If your bike has a lot of miles (50k), the head bearing may be worn and need to be replaced.  Replace with the ALL BALLS roller bearings. They have a larger surface then the ball bearings.

I did that last week and didnt feel anything. I saw the video on youtube how to test the head bearing. Maybe its my tires.

On the other note, my battery started to act up. It was working fine until friday. I had to jump start it. then drove it for 5 miles got home and it started back up. Drove it again Satruday. Travelled 22 miles let then I went to the store. Came back 30 mins later and it fired right away. Went home and stoped by autozone for 15 mins and no problem. But I tried to use it yesterday, it cranks but not enough juice

Get a new battery after having the old one load tested. Batteries Plus good place to start-----charging system out put needs also to be checked, but I suspect old battery is problem---not able to hold charge.

exavid wrote:

There's a good bit of information on motorcycle tire wear on Rattlebars website. Good stuff there and it applies to Silverwings as much as it applies to motorcycles. Check out the link below:

http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html

+1 on the above noted web tire article - very fascinating and informative.

I am reminded when I read this (and other) theads that many of our forum members have come to us (actually to their SWing!) from a lifetime of riding and working on OTHER bikes (i.e., not the SWing) so that there experience transends that of those, such as myself, that have mostly only ridden a SWing.

exavid wrote:

The problem could be a head bearing that needs retorquing and relubing. Unfortunately cupping is normal on any bike, the heavier and harder ridden the faster cupping shows up. It's the same thing as scalloping on auto tires though the dynamics are a bit different. Cupping shows up on both tires though usually first on the rear tire. If you look at a rear tire that has a few thousand miles on it from the right angle, about 45 degrees to the long axis of bike you'll see the tread takes the shape of a saw blade. In other words one edge of each transverse groove will have one edge higher than the opposing side. Both braking and acceleration cause this to happen though on a SW it's more likely braking did most of the cupping. High powered motorcycles usually cup the opposite way from acceleration.
There's a good bit of information on motorcycle tire wear on Rattlebars website. Good stuff there and it applies to Silverwings as much as it applies to motorcycles. Check out the link below:

http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html

I know this is an old thread, but recently I had an experience with my wing that scared the crap out of me. I'm going down the road at 50 mph. I noticed my jacket is unzipped. I take both hands off the bars to zip it up which I have done before. While bike is decelerating, it goes into a violent "tank slap wobble". I grab the bars and managed to get it stopped. I have checked everything from the steering head bearings to rear swingarm play. Everything is tight. But my Bridgestones are cupped really bad. I have 7000k miles on them and they are just off of the wear bars. Can tires in this condition cause this? Do SW's cup the tires in this way? Thanks.

Heavy loaded top box? Keep hands on bars.

john grinsel wrote:

Heavy loaded top box? Keep hands on bars.

Took top box off. No change. Bike only has 8k miles on it.

Yes, tires in "this condition" can cause this . I have replaced cupped tires that wobbled . No wobble after new tires installed . As John said , Keep hands on bars (Bad human!! Bad!!!)

MY SW will do this also. Starts to swap bars in about 3 seconds worse at lower speeds. Seemed to start with Mich PP tire was installed and never went away still on same tire.

I believe its more of a tire issue won't know till I replace this tire. I do use a top case but never has more than 10 lbs in it. Waiting till front tire is worn then will try a set of Pirelli's ...
Keep hands on bars till then.

Rode 365 miles on Sunday PP tires do grip well. Front will go about 9k rear 5k at most.