Intermittent engine stall

Hi all!  I have a 2013 Silver Wing ABS that I bought brand new off the lot.  It has 14,500 miles on it so far.

Into the third year of ownership, I began to experience occasional engine stalls when slowing to a stop.  It first started to happen a couple of months ago -- brought it to the shop would couldn't find anything wrong but charged me $65 for labor.  Today, the stall problem is happening more frequently -- almost every ride I take, it will stall once or twice but then starts up after minor hesitation right away.

The scooter is relatively brand new and I have babied it as much as is humanly possible, except when I'm riding it highway. :-)  What could be wrong?  Intermittent problems that can't be reproduced on demand are always the most difficult issues to resolve.

If anyone has experienced this type of intermittent stalling, please give me some advice -- any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Steve in Los Angeles

PS It is so hot today that we're headed to the beach near Oxnard (in a car).  I'll check when I return for any suggestion  you guys might have sent.

I would start by setting the idle speed up.

Steve,

I had something similar. Sometimes started great even when cold and sometimes like the battery was dead. And at other times it would idle fast and at others just slow to a stop/stall.

Lots of great advice from the people here at the time. May have been from John ... can't recall for sure -- but it was to drive it "hard" for as bit. This helped at first but what really cured my problem was a new battery. A weak battery can offer strange events. Charging the battery at that time seemed to help ... but not for long. The cranking amps had left the building , as it were. This battery replacement was the simplest remedy without altering any settings on anything.

Your battery , if new with the bike isn't terribly old , but have it checked out. The expiration date is getting close.

Hope this helps,

Mike

SteveSilverWing wrote:

Hi all!  I have a 2013 Silver Wing ABS that I bought brand new off the lot.  It has 14,500 miles on it so far.

Into the third year of ownership, I began to experience occasional engine stalls when slowing to a stop.  It first started to happen a couple of months ago -- brought it to the shop would couldn't find anything wrong but charged me $65 for labor.  Today, the stall problem is happening more frequently -- almost every ride I take, it will stall once or twice but then starts up after minor hesitation right away.

The scooter is relatively brand new and I have babied it as much as is humanly possible, except when I'm riding it highway. :-)  What could be wrong?  Intermittent problems that can't be reproduced on demand are always the most difficult issues to resolve.

If anyone has experienced this type of intermittent stalling, please give me some advice -- any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Steve in Los Angeles

PS It is so hot today that we're headed to the beach near Oxnard (in a car).  I'll check when I return for any suggestion  you guys might have sent.

been on this site for over 6 years and have never heard of this problem before. have you checked the idle rpm - as you slow down around 2000 rpm the 'clutch' will release and the engine should idle down to around 1100 rpm. My 2011 has its original battery that has run flat more than once when i have left it un-ridden for several weeks. a jump start and i'm off - usually have to stop within a couple minutes to make right hand turn so bike goes to idle - that said i dont seem to have a dead cell which can happen - but if you can start right back up seems doubtful the battery would be the problem. have you had body panels off? maybe a pinched wire somewhere? kickstand start switch - banking angle sensor, electric fuel pump/injectors, kill switch.

does the problem happen more often when fully warmed up or when it is 'cold'?

air, fuel, spark (timed right) = ignition [if you have a problem with one no ignition], intermittent failure indicates most likely problem is with the spark (or electrical in nature).

Hi Thebreen,

Your troubleshooting suggestions are all very helpful.  Battery is definitely not the problem since it is brand new in early July and had it tested at the shop in early August.  Panels off?  I would imagine the shop techs would have done this at my last servicing.  I had brought the bike in about three months ago when the stall problem first started.  They checked it over, couldn't find any problem, and charged me $65 in labor.  Of course, the bike never stalls when it is in the shop..LOL

The stall can happen at any time.  I always warm up the bike for 5-7 minutes before riding it.  It stalled once while warming up but the stall usually happens when I'm slowing down coming to a stop.  I do own a 2002-2013 Honda Service Manual for FSC600/A  -- I am very mechanical but haven't been confident enough to do major work, at least not yet.

Air, fuel and spark timed right are areas that I would need professional direction before attempting to fix/adjust them myself.  I will check to see if all cables are well-seated once I learn where they are (I would do this with computers motherboards to check connectivity by re-seating cables, etc.)

I have a strong feeling that "spark" coming from the spark plugs is the problem.  Not sure how spark plugs work exactly, but I do know that the gap between electrode and gap electrode are critical.  Also, do spark plugs emit a poor spark when they get old?  My 2013 Silver Wing had been sitting in a sales lot before I had purchased it in 2015 -- in other words, even though it only had 3 miles on the odometer, it had aged a couple of years before being sold.

That's everything that I know about it so far.  Unfortunately, I don't trust my Silver Wing to go very far until the problem is fixed.

Thanks so much for your input and right-on troubleshooting suggestions!!!

Steve

SteveSilverWing wrote:

Hi Thebreen,

Your troubleshooting suggestions are all very helpful.  Battery is definitely not the problem since it is brand new in early July and had it tested at the shop in early August.  Panels off?  I would imagine the shop techs would have done this at my last servicing.  I had brought the bike in about three months ago when the stall problem first started.  They checked it over, couldn't find any problem, and charged me $65 in labor.  Of course, the bike never stalls when it is in the shop..LOL

The stall can happen at any time.  I always warm up the bike for 5-7 minutes before riding it.  It stalled once while warming up but the stall usually happens when I'm slowing down coming to a stop.  I do own a 2002-2013 Honda Service Manual for FSC600/A  -- I am very mechanical but haven't been confident enough to do major work, at least not yet.

Air, fuel and spark timed right are areas that I would need professional direction before attempting to fix/adjust them myself.  I will check to see if all cables are well-seated once I learn where they are (I would do this with computers motherboards to check connectivity by re-seating cables, etc.)


I have a strong feeling that "spark" coming from the spark plugs is the problem.  Not sure how spark plugs work exactly, but I do know that the gap between electrode and gap electrode are critical.  Also, do spark plugs emit a poor spark when they get old?  My 2013 Silver Wing had been sitting in a sales lot before I had purchased it in 2015 -- in other words, even though it only had 3 miles on the odometer, it had aged a couple of years before being sold.

That's everything that I know about it so far.  Unfortunately, I don't trust my Silver Wing to go very far until the problem is fixed.

Thanks so much for your input and right-on troubleshooting suggestions!!!

Steve

Hi Steve, Replace that air Filter with a New OEM Filter and turn the idle screw in until you see 1200 Rpm. The Idle screw is under the seat. Happy motoring Lloyd 193.

If you haven't changed those spark plugs, I recommend iridium replacement correctly Gapped.

adding===pull plugs, look at them, clean/gap they should last 50,000 miles, air cleaner also lasts over 40,000 miles----quit wasting time warming engine up----ride it hard, do not baby, try super shell gas, maybe run some injector cleaner in gas---ride every day....and hard, Hondas like to be run. Have battery load tested by Batteries Plus. Simple things, not costing money. Make sure idle set as per workshop manual. These things run well to at least 50,000 miles, based on my experience with 2 new SilverWings---current 2013 leftover approaching 50,000 miles---runs great but used hard sometimes---Just returned from 7,000 mile trip---bike needed cleaning/tires but no monkeying with how it runs.

Hi Steve. You say that you are somewhat mechanically skilled and have the FSM, so let me state this: your dealer doesn't know crap about the Silverwing. Don't assume that they ever removed any panels. They put it in the shop, started it up and let it run for awhile. Maybe...maybe they checked for FI failure codes. But when it didn't act up or otherwise stall they ended the service. There is no OBD II terminal for them to hook up a diagnostic computer to tell them which component to replace. And they lack the familiarity or enthusiasm to persue the problem. Ca-ching...That'll be $65, sir. Thank you very much.

The Silverwing is easy to service. Cosy up with your FSM, don't be intimidated, then, as John Muir quoted Fra Junipero Serra in his "How to Keep Your VW Alive: a Manual for the Compleat Idiot" book; "Kindly come to terms with your ass for it bears you". Learn to do it yourself.

I would certainly pull the left side panel panel and check the wiring connections, etc in that location. Maybe even pull the underseat panel and check the air screw(s) adjustment a DIY manometer. It's easy enough for a dick-fingered shop tech who has only seen one or two Silverwings to mistake the throttle body (air screws) screws (straight slot) with the idle adjustment screw (phillips head). Attempting to adjust the idle with wrong screw can really throw things out of whack.

As I mentioned above (with the exception on the manometer business) the Silverwing is easy to work on. There are several links to air screw adjustments & DIY manometer on this forum if you check the Archives --or check YouTube for DIY manometer. See chapter 5 in the FSM for more specific info. You can do this, Steve!

Hmm, maybe you should put in a bottle of Techron fuel additive or 1/2 bottle of Seafoam.

I'll second that - do it yourself! you can do it!....

hmmm, so it ran well (or did it) for 2 years then started stalling, dirty injectors/gummed up? run some name brand fuel - really didnt think about it but old gas (especially todays 10 to 15% ethanol blends will 'help' by dissolving all the old sticky residue from the 2 years sitting on the dealership floor (true the fuel filter should catch the bigger stuff but wouldnt hurt to clean the injectors, replace the fuel filter and flush the fuel system with fresh gas. We are here to encourage you and support.

john grinsel wrote:

adding===pull plugs, look at them, clean/gap they should last 50,000 miles, air cleaner also lasts over 40,000 miles----quit wasting time warming engine up----ride it hard, do not baby, try super shell gas, maybe run some injector cleaner in gas---ride every day....and hard, Hondas like to be run.  Have battery load tested by Batteries Plus.   Simple things, not costing money. Make sure idle set as per workshop manual.  These things run well to at least 50,000 miles, based on my experience with 2 new SilverWings---current 2013 leftover approaching 50,000 miles---runs great but used hard sometimes---Just returned from 7,000 mile trip---bike needed cleaning/tires but no monkeying with how it runs.

I always put high-octane 91 gas in the tank. Ride hard? I do ride it freeway at 75-80 at least a few times per week. Most of my day-to-day rides are local...errands, groceries, etc.

Heck, I've never serviced it myself and have been somewhat intimidated. I didn't expect to have any problems whatsoever (other than normal maintenance) with the odometer at only 14,500 miles.

Just to give you a "stall" example: I just returned from doing one errand. On my return, it stalled quick and clean. I was in the parking lot riding at 5 mph. I had a hard time starting it but after the third or fourth crank of the starter, it started and all was well on my way home. It has plenty of torque power, but when it stalls, I am SOL. So far, it hasn't happened while riding fast, or on a freeway.

I'll try putting in Techron cleaner into tank and see if that helps clean up fuel injectors and fuel line. Not sure how to flush fuel line. I've got to learn how to get at the engine to check the spark plugs. I know that once I do it for the first time, the second will be a breeze. I've got plenty of tools including a spark plug wrench.

Thanks for your time and effort to help me.

Thebreen wrote:

I'll second that - do it yourself!  you can do it!....

hmmm, so it ran well (or did it) for 2 years then started stalling, dirty injectors/gummed up?  run some name brand fuel - really didnt think about it but old gas (especially todays 10 to 15% ethanol blends will 'help' by dissolving all the old sticky residue from the 2 years sitting on the dealership floor (true the fuel filter should catch the bigger stuff but wouldnt hurt to clean the injectors, replace the fuel filter and flush the fuel system with fresh gas.  We are here to encourage you and support.

It ran perfectly for the first 2 years. The only thing I had to do was maintenance (oil change, new tires). The first problem was the stator cover developed a minor leak. The shop fixed the leak and it hasn't caused any problems since.

I'm going to put Techron fuel cleaner into the tank and see if that helps. Spark plugs are next.

At 14,500 miles you are coming up on the 16,000 mile interval for the belt change (the "V" light comes ON). So once you get the stalling issue sorted get yourself a new belt from Partzilla and read JeffR's belt change Tutorial. Once you get by that you won't be intimidated. The first time you get into the drive belt case for a belt change it will probably take you a little over an hour. I'm down to 1/2 hour using hand tools and working on the floor with the scoot on the center stand.

The spark plugs are accessed by way of that small "door" panel at the front of the seat. Two little phillips head screws on either side probably hidden by the edge of the seat.

Read your FSM

Tim

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Hi Steve. You say that you are somewhat mechanically skilled and have the FSM, so let me state this: your dealer doesn't know crap about the Silverwing. Don't assume that they ever removed any panels. They put it in the shop, started it up and let it run for awhile. Maybe...maybe they checked for FI failure codes. But when it didn't act up or otherwise stall they ended the service. There is no OBD II terminal for them to hook up a diagnostic computer to tell them which component to replace. And they lack the familiarity or enthusiasm to persue the problem. Ca-ching...That'll be $65, sir. Thank you very much.

The Silverwing is easy to service. Cosy up with your FSM, don't be intimidated, then, as John Muir quoted Fra Junipero Serra in his "How to Keep Your VW Alive: a Manual for the Compleat Idiot" book; "Kindly come to terms with your ass for it bears you". Learn to do it yourself.

I would certainly pull the left side panel panel and check the wiring connections, etc in that location. Maybe even pull the underseat panel and check the air screw(s) adjustment a DIY manometer. It's easy enough for a dick-fingered shop tech who has only seen one or two Silverwings to mistake the throttle body (air screws) screws (straight slot) with the idle adjustment screw (phillips head). Attempting to adjust the idle with wrong screw can really throw things out of whack.

As I mentioned above (with the exception on the manometer business) the Silverwing is easy to work on. There are several links to air screw adjustments & DIY manometer on this forum if you check the Archives --or check YouTube for DIY manometer. See chapter 5 in the FSM for more specific info. You can do this, Steve!

Hmm, maybe you should put in a bottle of Techron fuel additive or 1/2 bottle of Seafoam.

I have a Silver Wing FSC600/A -- it is stalling more frequently with each ride I take. I just ran a quick errand and it stalled quick and clean in the parking lot. I was riding at about 6 mph. I had a hard time starting it up -- it only started hesitantly after the 4th crank of the starter -- I thought I was going to be stranded.

I will definitely add Techron fuel cleaner to the tank and I will also check the spark plugs for debris and will check the gap.

The shop I use is quite unique in that they offer self- or full-service. They have 3 bays for bike riders to come in, use their air-powered tools, and offer mentoring for $15 per hour. Moto Republic at http://moto-republic.com/ I will likely take it in tomorrow morning to rent one bay and try getting to the bottom of the stall problem.

Thanks much for all your effort and time helping me!

Hi Steve, Replace that air Filter with a New OEM Filter and turn the idle screw in until you see 1200 Rpm. The Idle screw is under the seat. Happy motoring Lloyd 193.

If you haven't changed those spark plugs, I recommend iridium replacement correctly Gapped. [/quote]

Lloyd, would this be the correct iridium spark plug?

NGK (3797) CR8EHIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plug, Pack of 1

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-CR8EHIX-9-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B001RLRYGO/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1503965638&sr=1-3&keywords=ngk+cr8eh-9

I had a strange experience with the engine kill switch next to the throttle. When I used the switch, the bike didn't want to start up again. And when it did, it seemed to be running on 1 cylinder. Now I never use this switch, so I sprayed some WD-40 in there and cycled the switch about 100 times. It seems to be working ok for now.

SteveSilverWing wrote:

Hi Steve, Replace that air Filter with a New OEM Filter and turn the idle screw in until you see 1200 Rpm. The Idle screw is under the seat. Happy motoring Lloyd 193.

If you haven't changed those spark plugs, I recommend iridium replacement correctly Gapped.

Lloyd, would this be the correct iridium spark plug?

NGK (3797) CR8EHIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plug, Pack of 1

https://www.amazon.com/NGK-CR8EHIX-9-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B001RLRYGO/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1503965638&sr=1-3&keywords=ngk+cr8eh-9
[/quote]

Yes, NGK-CR8EH-9 Iridium is the correct replacement Plug, I install these using a .032 Gap or a .8MM Gap, Evidently the IX has been added to the part number recently. I have Both numbers, Visually the plugs are the same. 3797 does appear on all the boxes, I think some of the older inventory does not show the IX. Using the narrower Gap lessons the demand on the Ignition system and makes for instant starting regardless of the Temperature. This should stir up a hornets nest of conversation. Happy Motoring lloyd 193.

Toolman wrote:

I had a strange experience with the engine kill switch next to the throttle. When I used the switch, the bike didn't want to start up again. And when it did, it seemed to be running on 1 cylinder. Now I never use this switch, so I sprayed some WD-40 in there and cycled the switch about 100 times. It seems to be working ok for now.

Some of the Harley practical Jokers here in the Sunshine State like turning that Emergency kill switch off when they see a Honda parked someplace. Always check that you have not been a victim of a jealous Harley Rider. I recommend not using that handlebar switch, Always use the key switch and you will never walk away leaving the switch on or the key in the bike. Happy Motoring Lloyd 193.

Ain't had battery checked/load test yet? 2013 regardless of problems is probably due for new battery---my left over 2013, put in service 2014 is on replacement battery since last summer. Fuel injection requires perfect power source to work right.My world more than 2 years battery life is good, although my Kawasaki Concours went 5 years on first battery--unusual.

I'd be appalled if I only got only two years life out of a battery, and I find it strange that some owners on here think two or three years is acceptable, and if it's lasted for four years it's been a good one.

Good news regarding progress on my "stall" problem, although it still has not been resolved.  Stalled twice will sitting in the driveway on the center stand.  When it does stall, it stalls immediately without hesitation -- it just dies.  I have studied my Honda Service Manual in chapters 2, 3, and 5 to help me through the following:

Setting the idle: removed the engine cover under the seat and upped the idle to 1,200 rpm.

Side panel removal and maintenance: under the left, I re-seated both the black and grey data cables.  On the right, I removed the air filter cover to find original air filter clogged especially at the front end -- encrusted with dust and debris.  That's encouraging because this might be the problem.

Spark plugs: I also checked the two spark plugs and re-seated the power cable to each.  I noticed that there are two types of plugs connector caps.  One that is rounded and smooth, and another that is like the tip of a threaded machine screw.  From what I could tell looking with a flashlight at the head of the plus (cap removed), the Swing uses the threaded machine screw type.  Is that correct?

Until the new air filter arrives, I'll have to settle for thoroughly vacuuming the existing filter and hoping this will solve the stall problem.  

Until I am absolutely sure of which type (smooth or threaded plug) to order, I will purchase a torque wrench, a spark plug socket, and an extender to reach the long distance when installing the new plugs.

Hopefully these steps will finally resolve the stall issue.  And I'm hoping not to have to take it in to the shop.

Thanks again for all of your suggestions.

My Silver Wing is black.

Meldrew wrote:

I'd be appalled if I only got only two years life out of a battery, and I find it strange that some owners on here think two or three years is acceptable, and if it's lasted for four years it's been a good one.

I believe John changed his battery because he drained it using an air pump on one of his trips. He didn't have the engine running while running the pump. I didn't think the battery needed replacing, but that is just me. I also keep my Battery Tender connected after a ride unless I plan to do more riding that day.

Replacing battery on left over bike---which in my case stood for 2 years, used for 2 years, just an expense you deal with---since bike has no kick starter, cannot be bump started.....and walking sucks. I do not have battery tender, nor will I. My bike is used daily so battery should stay up

SteveSilverWing wrote:

Setting the idle: removed the engine cover under the seat and upped the idle to 12,000 rpm.



My Silver Wing is black.

Might want to reset that idle.......or edit your post. :lol!:

SteveSilverWing wrote:

<> Spark plugs: I also checked the two spark plugs and re-seated the power cable to each.  I noticed that there are two types of plugs connector caps.  One that is rounded and smooth, and another that is like the tip of a threaded machine screw.  From what I could tell looking with a flashlight at the head of the plus (cap removed), the Swing uses the threaded machine screw type.  <>

Whoa! Two different plugs or plug caps? What's wrong with this picture?

The original NGK plugs have threaded tips and the plug connector pushes on to those threaded tips. If you have some other type of plug with a larger smooth tip then someone has probably bodged another type of plug cap to fit. So if you find that you have two different plug cap then you should probably order both new caps as well as both spark plug wires (you can't rely on the integrity of the wires if dick fingers 'fixed' it). OEM parts only here, please. The ignition system is sensitive to the correct wires. DAMHIK

Also, if you have two different plugs and/or caps that would suggest that the PO was also having the stalling problem and attempted to fix it. So maybe you should also replace the coil too. After all you do seem to be having an electrical problem

For that you'll need to remove the right side skirt and the tunnel cover. It's all pretty much plug n' play but a little awkward to access because of the tunnel cover.

Tim

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

SteveSilverWing wrote:

<> Spark plugs: I also checked the two spark plugs and re-seated the power cable to each.  I noticed that there are two types of plugs connector caps.  One that is rounded and smooth, and another that is like the tip of a threaded machine screw.  From what I could tell looking with a flashlight at the head of the plus (cap removed), the Swing uses the threaded machine screw type.  <>

Whoa! Two different plugs or plug caps? What's wrong with this picture?

The original NGK plugs have threaded tips and the plug connector pushes on to those threaded tips. If you have some other type of plug with a larger smooth tip then someone has probably bodged another type of plug cap to fit. So if you find that you have two different plug cap then you should probably order both new caps as well as both spark plug wires (you can't rely on the integrity of the wires if dick fingers 'fixed' it). OEM parts only here, please. The ignition system is sensitive to the correct wires. DAMHIK

Also, if you have two different plugs and/or caps that would suggest that the PO was also having the stalling problem and attempted to fix it. So maybe you should also replace the coil too. After all you do seem to be having an electrical problem

For that you'll need to remove the right side skirt and the tunnel cover. It's all pretty much plug n' play but a little awkward to access because of the tunnel cover.

Tim

I am so sorry, Tim. In trying to be explicit, I omitted to say that the two types of spark plugs I mentioned were from a selection available that both share the same CR8EHIX-9 Spark Plugs #3797 identification numbers. My Silver Wing's spark plugs are both the same type: treaded tip. I bought it new from a Honda dealer. They are due to be replaced at 16,000 miles.

Thanks again for caring enough to write me, and sorry for the confusion, Tim.

I think I found the reason for the stalling. The air cleaner (filter) was filthy with debris and dust. It is on order and will be replaced, but until the new filter arrives, I cleaned and vacuumed the old one and re-installed it. No more stalls...so far. I will also replace spark plugs.

Steve

john grinsel wrote:

Replacing battery on left over bike---which in my case stood for 2 years, used for 2 years, just an expense you deal with---since bike has no kick starter, cannot be bump started.....and walking sucks.   I do not have battery tender, nor will I.   My bike is used daily so battery should stay up

Not if you run an air pump off of your battery. I've used an air pump many a time to top off a few pounds. Never had a bad battery. Always on a battery tender. If on the road, always run the motor when running the air pump. Walking sucks.

Air compressor pump is in trash----carry hand pump or foot pump.

Easyrider---"never had bad battery"-----how many miles are you riding or how many days of the year? Battery tenders are for people who do not ride much or maybe have many bikes.

The best of luck trying to inflate a flat Silver Wing tyre by the side of the road to 29-33 lbs psi with a cycle hand pump. You'll be hot, sweaty, and exhausted before you're got 10 lbs psi in there. I remember using a MZ hand pump after a tubed tyre puncture over 30 years ago, and it was a lot of of effort for very little return. Now like the malority on here I'm an old git so I'd tire even easier, so I'll settle for treating my tyres with PunctureSafe and take my chances.

I still have a similar BMW OE hand pump that stored in the frame tubes my 1977 BMW R100/7, why I kept it I've no idea, it'd be really good for pumping up a child's cycle tyres and not much else.

The only hand pumps worth using are cycle track pumps, they're powerful, efficient, and inflate a Silver Wing tyre from flat without much effort. Unfortunately at about 24" tall and with a 9" T handle they're a bit to awkward to store under the seat if you regularly carry other junk there.

I'd also say battery tenders/conditioners are used by savvy owners, when your 'riding season' ends in the next couple of months and for the majority the two wheeled toys go back in the cupboard until next Spring. How do you think the motorcycle and scooter batteries of owners in colder climes are prevented  from discharging and deterioration?

john grinsel wrote:

Air compressor pump is in trash----carry hand pump or foot pump.

Easyrider---"never had bad battery"-----how many miles are you riding or how many days of the year?   Battery tenders are for people who do not ride much or maybe have many bikes.

John,
I ride every day, even in the rain. Here on Oahu, rain is a fact of life. Will be leaving for Idaho this evening. Wil be riding there too. I hooked up a quick connect for my battery tender. Takes me 15 seconds to do. I have accessories that are always on. I use battery tenders for my fishing boat, truck, Swing, generator, and (wife's Genesis Coupe, when on vacation).

I BELIEVE THAT THE STALL PROBLEM IS SOLVED!!!

Yesterday I was prepared to replace the ignition coil, cables and caps anew but was surprised at what I found when I removed the right-side floor skirt.  Once the skirt was removed, I clearly saw the ignition coil with its two clip-on connections on one side and spark plug cables on the other.  What immediately struck me was that the black color-coded connector that is closest to the outside floor skirt was hanging on by a thread -- that is to say, the wire itself was not frayed, but the connector had become disengaged with the terminal on the ignition coil.  I really think that the connection was only being made because of plastic wire tension was pushing it up against the lead.

I reconnected the hanging black connector and checked on the tightness of both connectors which now seemed strongly in place.  I believe that this loose connection was the problem all along, because since making this important re-connection, there have been zero stalls. How did this happen? I'll never know but I have my suspicions and will leave it at that. The upside is that I have a spare ignition coil and cables.

I took it for a ride up into the Angeles National Forest to Wildwood picnic area at https://goo.gl/maps/xKUQDXEN8FU2.  It's a fun curvy ride up one of the many roads that are a biker's dream come true.  Sadly, a few riders (café racer types) every year go careening over the edge of one of the many curves in the road.  You'll see rescue helicopters fly by to rescue people in need -- sometimes bikers, but also hikers get into trouble.

Anyways, the stall problem is gone and I can't wait to ride down to San Diego or wherever and not have to worry that my Swing may fail when I need it most.

Thanks again to everyone who helped me along the way, or tried to.  Much appreciation to everyone!!

Steve

Well done getting it sorted bud