Rear wheel axle nut torque.

Rear wheel nut Torque, Years ago having had conversations with other Silverwing and Reflex Mechanics concerning the rear wheel axle nut torque, It became apparent that temperature was a significant factor in the width of an Aluminum wheel.

A wheel properly torqued in 90 degree weather was found to be liking torque in 30 degree weather, As temperature decreased these wheels shrink, Their thickness being less. Therefore we agreed that a 10% increase in torque was called for to insure that a machine taken from Florida to Illinois did not suffer from a loose wheel nut after several hot cold cycles.

Operating at Highway speeds it is not uncommon for a rear assembly to reach 200 degrees, Stopping and allowing a cool off to the 50 degree air temperature causes an eventual loosing of the rear axle nut.

Some of the mechanics today use a higher than 10% increase in Their tightening of Aluminum wheel nuts. It has been my experience that a 10% increase is sufficient. 110 foot pounds is a high torque and a rear Silverwing brake will not allow this to be reached.

A back up must be used to properly torque these nuts, I use a 1&1/4" hardwood dowel thru the wheel spokes, A straight Shovel handle will work, Avoid damaging that valve stem.

Honda made no mistake in their service manual torque Specs, I do not intend to ask Honda America engineers to rewrite the manual, As has been previously suggested in other matters.

Just be sure you torque that Lubricated nut to the correct torque.

Happy motoring lloyd 193.

Now you're making a well-reasoned post. Not that I completely agree, mind you, but you are presenting your opinion in an understandable manner. 

Tim

lloyd193 wrote:

Rear wheel nut Torque, Years ago having had conversations with other Silverwing and Reflex Mechanics concerning the rear wheel axle nut torque, It became apparent that temperature was a significant factor in the width of an Aluminum wheel.

Unless I'm missing something, no part of the Silver Wing alloy rim comes under the direct infuence of the torque applied to the axle nut, except in as much as that the rim is cast onto the hardened steel splined core, given that aluminium dissipates heat faster than steel it will absorb any heat held in the steel components beyond it's own temperature, so sorry I fail to see your point here, particularly as the nut itself & the componants that it acts directly upon (collar, swinging arm bearing, wheel spacer splined wheel core, final drive bearing & of course the axle itself) are all steel, as such they will all have the same rate of expansion & contraction.

The Bern wrote:

lloyd193 wrote:

Rear wheel nut Torque, Years ago having had conversations with other Silverwing and Reflex Mechanics concerning the rear wheel axle nut torque, It became apparent that temperature was a significant factor in the width of an Aluminum wheel.

Unless I'm missing something, no part of the Silver Wing alloy rim comes under the direct infuence of the torque applied to the axle nut, except in as much as that the rim is cast onto the hardened steel splined core, given that aluminium dissipates heat faster than steel it will absorb any heat held in the steel components beyond it's own temperature, so sorry I fail to see your point here, particularly as the nut itself & the componants that it acts directly upon (collar, swinging arm bearing, wheel spacer splined wheel core, final drive bearing & of course the axle itself) are all steel, as such they will all have the same rate of expansion & contraction.

Another Incorrect Assumption!

Lloyd 1939.

lloyd193 wrote:

Another Incorrect Assumption! Lloyd 1939.

Why

Too save us both whole load of typing, I've picked the salient points from your original post .......

lloyd193 wrote:

Rear wheel nut Torque,  .... //....
Honda made no mistake in their service manual torque Specs,

A few questions regarding your findings and conclusion; if the axle nut was torqued to your specifications then the scoot was transported to a dramatically different climate --say from Florida to northern Ontario-- wouldn't the axle nut then be grossly overtightened?   

And if the wheel is so suseptible to operating temperature changes, wouldn't the wheel become "warped" due to the heat radiating from the exhaust when the scoot was stopped?

Rather than exceed the manufacturers torque specs wouldn't it be simply easier to use one of the many Loctite products on the axle nut?

In response to Cosmic_Jumper's post ....

Ahhh, the expansion & contraction point, I tried to address that bud, but apparently it was an  ...  "Another Incorrect Assumption!"

If the rear wheel on mine got to 200 degrees, I'd put it on the centre stand, pour cold water on it, collect that in a mug & make a drink of tea, which I would then drink while waiting for a recovery vehicle, for that much heat transfer there must be a major problem.

Yes, far easier & far more sensible bud, Honda do not specify lubricating that thread, so it will already be overtightened compared to spec' without adding the extra 10%, I do find it strange that OP feels that is the correct procedure when he finishes his post ....
"Honda made no mistake in their service manual torque Specs"

Those are retorical observations ^^^

Hey lloyd, just a thought, how often (if ever) do you have your torque wrench calibrated ?