Hyperpro Fork Springs

Hi on the day I bought my Silverwing I noticed in the receipts etc it had Hyperpro fork springs fitted.

I thought great, saves me a few bob etc.

But where we live its the roads from hell, all potholes and uneven etc etc so its always been a struggle with these springs reacting in too hard a way.

As I`m mainly on these type of roads I was going to pop 10w oil in to see if that helps and the chap who was going to do it for me, bit with me, thought its much better to pop some std springs in for the best results. I rarely get over 55/60 these days on mainly very back roads.

I agreed but I simply can not find any 2nd hand std springs, been looking for a year.

I`ve had great advice on how to do the forks etc if I can just get my hands on some std springs in the UK ( where I am ) or even Europe.

The Hyperpro`s are superb if you get on to even half decent roads and push the SW but I just need the older type to go in.

Be handy if I could find someone who wants to upgrade theirs and do a spring swap.

I`ve been offered a set of forks for £150 ( way beyond me at the moment ) plus quite a bit of post or a long drive but the chap can`t say if there are std springs in there so too pricey a risk.

Has anyone tried the Hyperpo`s with thinner oil or does anyone know anyone this way who fancies a set so would do a swap please.

Or does anyone have any std springs on the shelf they might like to just turn in to Hyperpro ones. I`d cover costs etc and even chuck in a few bob as thanks.

Thanks for the help etc.

I've got a set of original springs on the shelf. I hardly think that it would be worth the postage to send them over the pond to you though.

Tim

£112 with free postage ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-fjs-600-silverwing-forks/112644159867?hash=item1a3a1d797b%3Ag%3A6YAAAOSwxDNZgL8H&_sacat=0&_nkw=fjs+600+springs&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313 .... then put your hyperpro's up for sale

SILVERWINGDAYS wrote:

 the chap can`t say if there are std springs in there so too pricey a risk.

Having recently seen the rear springs he took off I doubt the fronts will be standard

Hi Tim you are probably right, but thank you.

Yes thats the scoot Bern, I thought the same it looks like a modded bike to me.

I think those YSS shocks are about £155 + delivered new but a very firm spring.

Good handling but quite rough over bumps themselves.

Hoping to get a UK swap sorted possibly.

Have you actually ridden on standard from springs Mark ? they might not be any better for you than the hyperpro's al ready fitted, did you ever change the fork oil for a lighter grade ? that might be eought to make a difference.

Hi no not ridden on std front springs myself, and the chap who is doing the springs with me thought it made more sense to just go back to std springs so not put thinner oil in etc.

I`m just not up to doing it myself. He seems to know his stuff bikes wise.

As you probably read I think the Hyperpro`s actually saved me a few weeks ago when I went down the pothole from hell. My eyes were on all the gravel so only saw it at the last minute.

My God it was terrible and I have no idea how I stayed on at all !!! The whole bike bucked and bottomed and threw itself around etc.

And talk about jarring through you.

I have no doubt whatsoever if I`d had the std front springs in I`d of been well and truly off so I do owe them a nod or two.

I was sort of taken a back when I stopped still in one ouchey piece and still sat on the bike and a bit in shock too.

Best Mark.

SILVERWINGDAYS wrote:

Hi no not ridden on std front springs myself, and the chap who is doing the springs with me thought it made more sense to just go back to std springs so not put thinner oil in etc.

Has this chap ever riden a SilverWing with standard suspension ? If not he's just guessing.
Seriously try & find someone local to you that has one & give it a go before spending money & time chasing something that may be no better than what you have now bud.
Trying various grades of oil will be quicker & easier than finding cheap secondhand OEM springs, which may well be 9/10ths knackered before you get them

Hi Bern I think you are probably right, I am always just grateful for all the help I get with the bike.

I pay in a few tins of anything except Fosters !!!!

But I`ll give him a call and chance my arm etc.

It does make sense really, to be sure.

Thanks

I bought my Swing in 2009 with the stock springs. It uses to be an ultra cushy ride, but really wallow-y if you went through any curves with any sort of speed. It would bottom out bumping over the curb to my driveway.

After 10,000 miles I installed the Hyper Pro springs. They are much better than stock. A bit firmer than stock but a lot more control over bumps. It comes with (and is expected to use) 20w oil. I've changed the fork oil a few times (had a problem with a poorly balanced front tire that made me think something was wrong with the fork) and currently have an equal mix of 10w and 20w oil in both legs. I've had it on my to-do list to change the oil and go back to the 20w thickness. I do like to ride hard so my needs may not be the same as yours. But it just feels like it pogo-s too much after a bump - a sure sign that the oil is not the right weight for the strength of the spring.

My suggestion - either keep the Hyper Pro's and have the oil changed or if you can find some factory springs be sure to use spacers in the top to add preload and use slightly thicker oil than Honda specifies to add damping. Just guessing, but maybe 10w or 15w oil. Another thought - add some cushy grips if your hands seem to get too much shock.

I fitted Hyper Pro springs because I was not happy with the ride quality over pot holes. The Hyper Pro springs are just as soft initially but, as the shock compresses further, they stiffen more progressively than the originals. They are longer springs. Honda use spacers which are replaced by more spring coils with the Hyper Pros. I would recommend Hyper Pro springs.

Another thing that improved the ride on mine was to fit Pirelli Diablo tyres (although only just recently so no long term experience). I was using a pair of ROCK HARD Metzeler Wintec Feel Free that were also shaped like 20p. pieces!

Hi its great to hear this good advice and experiences thank you, and really sounds as if I maybe had a better option from the start. Odd bit of bumping aside.

Tyres wise I`ve found a Michelin City Grip on the rear is an absolute revelation comfort and handling wise, they really do absorb the bumps amazingly.

Though I would still like to find a better rear shock option at some point.

I also just put an SC pure Michelin on the front that is oddly much softer than the last one I fitted and seems to handle and absorb shocks much better too. Though they do sometimes follow lines and grooves etc in the road oddly.

Sadly no city grip other than a winter one in the Silverwing front size.

So thank you again, Great to get such good help etc.

Going to pop some 10w fork oil in when my help has time, might just make them bob on.

Let me ask, is there a trick to get the bottom bolt out of the forks if the inside spins? The brake side came apart without a problem, so you know the other side is gonna be a pig! I have a few ideas Im gonna try, but if someone knows a tip to share or a link to a video PLEASE hook me up! I put the top cap back in like the manual says but I can hear the spring turning on the inside. Going to soak it with Release-All then wedge some o-rings between the top and bottom of the spring. Oh, and strike the bottom bolt with one of those "shock release" hammer things for stuck bolts. I have used so much Brake Clean (non-flammable) before every attempt, so I know excess fork oil is not the cause.

'Cracking' it loose before taking the top cap off, always worked for me bud

I seem to recall a post where someone said that they jammed a broomstick down there (after removing the spring, of course) to stop the tube from spinning. Others have used an air ratchet. But, as The Bern says, the trick is to crack that bolt before disassembling the fork tube.

Actually, it is not necessary to remove that inner tube if all you want to do is change the fork oil. All you need do is to insure all the old oil is out by pumping the slider.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yBAEVGaCnCY

I'm not overly fond of the stock SWing's handling.  My previous machine and my current one both exhibit a tendency to "fall" into corners.  Also, the suspension is not particularly responsive on rough roud surfaces...bounces and shakes a lot on potholes and irregularities .  New tires, particularly Pirelli Diablos, help a bit.  I read that the Hyperpro front springs also improve handling and response, particularly for larger riders, of which I am one.

I had a set of Hyperpros installed last week (I know my limitations ) and took the bike out for a 350 mile run into the local mountains.  

I'm probably not going to describe this well, but the feeling of falling into corners has mostly been resolved.  The bike corners more neutrally, at least for me.

I would say that the front suspension's response on irregular road surfaces is marginally better.

Overall, I'd say that the Hyperpro conversion was worth it, at least for me, but I have to say the diifference was not as profound as I expected.  I don't know if the Hyperpros would work for smaller or lighter persons.  My 2 cents...

Jinglebob - i wonder if you had the same issue I've been experiencing and inadvertently cured it when you tore down the front end. I had very slightly loose bolts on the fender/fork brace. That 'falling in' sensation would go away when I tightened up the fender and come back over time. I was even getting some head shake/wobble if I hit a tar snake or groove in the pavement. I think I finally cured it with some loctite and a proper torque wrench (150 miles and counting).

Hi, Cube. Yes, that's certainly possible, since the tech undoubtedly torqued things to spec when he reassembled the front end. That said, I noticed the same handling characteristics for my previous SWing and my current one. My first SWing had about 16,000 miles on it when I bought it, as I recall, and I sold it with 35,000 miles on it. My current one had about 4000 miles on it when I bought it and currently has about 8500 miles. That "falling into turns" sensation occurred on both bikes, regardless of tires or mileage, at least until I had the Hyperpros put on this one.

It's very subjective and I claim no expertise in being able to quantify it....it just feels better in cornering.

If you start feeling it again, check the bolt behind the reflector. That's the one that I was having issues with.

Good tip, thank you!

Don't be afraid of the 10% lower aspect ratio! I've been using it for my last 3 tire changes with excellent results.
Better handling, better ride, better braking.
No more head shake and follow the snake!

Sent from Topic'it App

Hi Ron, thanks I`ve got your email and replied.

I maybe had the better option anyway looking at advice and posts here, though to be honest struggling more with the rear end with my neck issues at the moment.

Got to pop some front pads in as only got 5/6K out of the EBC organic ones then will try some 10w with the Hyperpro`s with help.

Trying the Ferodo Eco ones next, but might get Honda ones next time.

Be interested to hear what you think of the Hyperpro`s on UK back roads etc.

Thanks Side P, City grip 120/70`s on the front next time then, thanks.

SILVERWINGDAYS wrote:

Thanks Side P, City grip 120/70`s on the front next time then, thanks.

I shall look forward to the ... I've changed the profile of my front tyre & now the ABS light won't go out ... thread

Sorry, slightly off subject. The fork leg won the battle. Gonna haul it to the dealer either this Saturday or Monday. I tried an impact driver, the broom stick idea, one of the frozen bolt hammer things and its just stuck. Here's the funny part! Now I have no choice BUT to get it removed. I tried to pry out the fork seal at work, not the best idea. Then I noticed that the bolt backed out just a tad, so now it wont tighten back up enough to stop leaking! Oh the joys of strange fork designs. And honestly, I dont really think that trying to loosen it before taking the whole thing apart would not have mattered. Cant prove or dis-prove it working now, I just have a gut feeling that it still would have spun.

Oh dear, sorry it went a bit awry !!!

The thought that I should really change the seals while changing the oil worried me.

Way beyond me sadly I think, even with help.

Its nice when things go well on a job but when they don`t it can be a real hair puller.

Hope it sorts for a few bob, or not too much.

I was on the right path, but I hit like a girl and my air impact needed air tool oil. The mechanic/tech got it out in 3 MINUTES! He did say I may have already broken it loose. Was corroded on the threads. He would not take any money but I slipped $20 in his tool box anyways. So I ordered new bolts, washers and o-rings. I do need to go back and get the fork seals pressed in with the special slide press. So overall, VICTORY!

I think I will actually book mine in to get the fork oil and seals changed after all, and face the money music.

Bern, do you think a 120/70 tyre would affect the ABS, I can`t see why, but I could be wrong.

Be great to get a city grip on the front, but I`ll probably get another 10K out of the new SC if I want too.

Sorry about raising an old thread but thought it was a good read so here it goes ,I went to the Hyperpro site and the only front springs are for a FJBS but my Title says FSD can you tell me if it doesn’t matter or it does ,the only thing I thought of was it had ABS that might be the difference,does anyone know ,

Thank you

Same springs all through the variant range of Silverwings from 01 to 15, ABS or none ABS.

Hope this helps.


Be safe, be seen and heard!

JohnyC wrote:

Same springs all through the variant range of Silverwings from 01 to 15, ABS or none ABS.

Hope this helps.


Be safe, be seen and heard!

OK thank you for the info


Ride Safely…..

FWIW The part # on my Hyper Pro spring kit is SP-HO06-SSA016

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

FWIW The part # on my Hyper Pro spring kit is SP-HO06-SSA016

That matches what the picture shows but the model on my title is different from the model pictured,my title states it as a FSD and the picture states it’s for a FJBS that’s what I was confused about,,with all the reading I’ve been doing I agree with Johnny that it’s all the same parts

Just a foot note about fitting the Hyperpro springs.

Unlike Hondas cost cutting exercise of using existing stock springs and a spacer( 51402MTC003 )to pack out the fork tubes, Hyperpros are the full lenght of the fork tubes and DO NOT require the OEM spacers fitted.
Also, be gentle when pumping the forks up and down to settle the new oil levels as some of us have
found that the fork can jam in the fully down position leading to much swearing and cussing to free it again.

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen and heard!

JohnyC wrote:

Just a foot note about fitting the Hyperpro springs.

Unlike Hondas cost cutting exercise of using existing stock springs and a spacer( 51402MTC003 )to pack out the fork tubes, Hyperpros are the full lenght of the fork tubes and DO NOT require the OEM spacers fitted.
Also, be gentle when pumping the forks up and down to settle the new oil levels as some of us have
found that the fork can jam in the fully down position leading to much swearing and cussing to free it again.

Hope this helps.

Be safe, be seen and heard!

I was planning on letting a service center install them along with a set of sliders ,inspecting the belt and to change the fluids ( motor oil and the gear oil) ,I can handle the fluid change but I’ll have the dealer do it while it’s there,do Silverwings need the valves adjusted like the smaller scooters do or is it a different type of motor where it’s not needed ? Sorry about the questions

Thank you

Just remember to inform the service centre if your supplying the springs that the spacers are not required for the rebuild and you want the old springs, washers and spacers back when you settle up with them. They can live quite happily stored in the Hyperpro box should you ever need them again.


just my pennies worth!

Be safe, be seen and heard!

Further to what Johny just mentioned, be sure to tell your service provider that the tight coils of the HyperPros go down.

Regarding valve adjustment: I’ve owned Silverwings since 2003 and have administered two Silverwing forums. I have never ever heard of a Silverwing needing the valves adjusted. There have been a few reports of anal folks going thru the tedious task of checking those valve clearances though.

JohnyC wrote:

Just remember to inform the service centre if your supplying the springs that the spacers are not required for the rebuild and you want the old springs, washers and spacers back when you settle up with them. They can live quite happily stored in the Hyperpro box should you ever need them again.


just my pennies worth!

Be safe, be seen and heard!

Will do,I kinda save things that are extra all the time,I have the original 50cc motor that came with my little scooter sitting in my kitchen in the box the 100cc motor came in,lol

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Further to what Johny just mentioned, be sure to tell your service provider that the tight coils of the HyperPros go down.

Regarding valve adjustment: I’ve owned Silverwings since 2003 and have administered two Silverwing forums. I have never ever heard of a Silverwing needing the valves adjusted. There have been a few reports of anal folks going thru the tedious task of checking those valve clearances though.

Lol,that’s good news ,I know it’s important to do on the little scooter every couple thousand miles but just thought I’d ask here first instead of looking like an idiot at the dealership

Johnbil09 wrote:

Lol,that’s good news ,I know it’s important to do on the little scooter every couple thousand miles but just thought I’d ask here first instead of looking like an idiot at the dealership

Oh the dealership will be happy to relieve you of your savings. Just think what they’ll charge for removing 90% of the bodywork just to access the valves…. and then to put them all back again. Then imagine the broken body tabs they’ll “discover” in the process. Talk about opening a can of worms…

No John, just go out and enjoy your Silverwing.

Ride in peace.

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Johnbil09 wrote:

Lol,that’s good news ,I know it’s important to do on the little scooter every couple thousand miles but just thought I’d ask here first instead of looking like an idiot at the dealership

Oh the dealership will be happy to relieve you of your savings. Just think what they’ll charge for removing 90% of the bodywork just to access the valves…. and then to put them all back again. Then imagine the broken body tabs they’ll “discover” in the process. Talk about opening a can of worms…

No John, just go out and enjoy your Silverwing.

Ride in peace.

Yeah I’m just glad it not something it’s going to need, this guy had the front brake adjusted too tight as when you’d apply it at slow speeds the front would dive easily that’s why I was thinking about getting springs ,I did order an exhaust because for 1 the chrome plastic guard is all chipped by the screw holes and a new set is $80 coming from China so I bought the Delkevic 18” CF to make it a little louder ,I’m city dweller and I learned on my little scooter that being a  little louder is better,you gotta ride like everyone don’t see you,I went to DMV today so I’m already to start practice tomorrow.

Thank you and ride safely,
John

Tims right ofc.
Just get out there and enjoy the Swing, worry about refinements later when you know the bike better. And read a bit more of "how too" using the search box and key words on the forum.

Be safe, be seen and heard!

J

JohnyC wrote:

Tims right ofc.
Just get out there and enjoy the Swing, worry about refinements later when you know the bike better. And read a bit more of "how too" using the search box and key words on the forum.

Be safe, be seen and heard!

Will do Sir, I’ve been watching vids all day about the bike,I also ordered an owners manual because for me that’s required reading for something I own,here’s a good one I discovered about the bike if you apply only the rear brake it’ll also automatically apply one piston of the front brake ,I enjoy learning little tidbits like that,….

Ride safely….

With a bike like the Swing its not easy to rev out the engine so guess that would be better for the valve train, I assume yes!

I would say I have never taken my Swing above 6.5K - 7K as that equaled about 90 MPH.

Apologies for reopening an older thread- I have the HyperPro springs (uninstalled now) and have been doing some research on their installation. I see above about leaving the spacers out as the springs are longer than OEM. Looks like a fairly easy job- what’s the orientation of the new spring in the fork? Tighter coils down the bottom (as on my ST1100) or the tighter coils up top? I think in general scooter suspensions are different than a MC for a cushier ride. I just want to make sure I put these in properly.

Question 2: I have a set of All Balls tapered needle bearings for the steering head- bike only has just under 10K miles on it but is now 21 years old (I recently swapped the roller bearings on the ST in the steering head and the grease looked fine but there were minor marks on the lower steering race)- any real noted benefit with the needle bearings vs rollers on the SWing, or more likely a waste of time? It’s obviously a much easier job to just work on the forks, but while I’m in there…

The forks look easy to do, the steering head bearings maybe not as much an easy job.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

The orientation of the springs won't affect the spring function as they are compressed from both ends. The only orientation reason that I know of is to make sure the diameter of the end of the spring matches whatever it is bearing on (i.e. the top of the damper rod and the underside of the fork cap). The SW Honda springs from memory are a bit smaller diameter at the tight end. Honda manuals tha I've looked at have a mixture of recommended orientation across different models with no obvious pattern.

I installed Hyper Pro springs last Saturday and the instructions said 'tight coils' to the top

Got it…thank you!

The steering head bearings require some ingenuity and patience. They are a PITA but it has been done (I did mine a couple of years ago). It's all been covered here so check out some threads using the search bar above. Always feel free to ask if you can't find what you need.

Thanks…I wanted to do the head bearings without taking all the plastics off- I did read it is doable. I have a Motion Pro race remover, but I also have a (long enough) slightly curved nail puller that looks like it’s got just the right amount of curve to tap out the upper and lower races of the steering head.