Stronger seat lift piston thingy.

One of you found a better/stronger seat piston on ebay or someplace. Yes, I did a forum search. Either Im dumb or worded it wrong, but I remember the OP said he had to drill it out a tiny bit to make it work. The Corbin seat is heavier than the stocker, and the stock piston is shot anyways. Oh, and the piston thing is missing completely from the junker Swing. Wife gets super mad when the seat tries to crush her! Any leads appreciated!

Key word; Gas Strut. This from an older post:

http://www.sourcingmap.com/20kg-44lb-lift-support-gas-strut-shock-spring-prop-11-p-158286.html

Best solution for heavy seat=paint mixing stick.

I replaced mine with one from amazon, and I did have to drill out one end a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PP32B2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the link! Ordering one today! "Gas strut", never thought of that, hence the "thingy".

"The Corbin seat is heavier than the stocker, and the stock piston is shot anyways."

I've had three Corbins and they always provide a gas strut designed for the seat. The seat should have an order # on the underside. You could contact Corbin and order the exact strut designed for the seat.

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Key word; Gas Strut. This from an older post:

http://www.sourcingmap.com/20kg-44lb-lift-support-gas-strut-shock-spring-prop-11-p-158286.html

 

I have this one with advice from above and it's more than enough.  Had to drill out lower hole a bit for bushing to fit.  2 years and no issues.

I have a story about that...

Friend of mine, well his wife has a Suzuki Swift and the rear window/tailgate struts were weak, very weak, it kept coming down on her head.

So he went for some more, and thought he'd go for some with a slightly higher spec so that she could simply open the lock and the tailgate would lift on it's own. Looked very "top of the range" when he showed me.

Anyhow, his missus is just over 5' high, she went shopping, the tailgate opened, and she couldn't reach it to close it....

Love it

Be careful if you put on on the seat that's significantly more powerful than the original. At least press the seat down with your hand in the middle of the seat and not on the end. I saw one SW where the seat pan buckled when the new gas strut was too stiff.

It would have been better if Honda had used a telescopic strut with a coil spring instead of the gas cylinder. They always loose their pressure and lift after a fairly short time if you open and close the seat much especially in cold weather when the rubber seals in them are stiff.

I purchased the strut that "Evil twin" suggested through Amazon, a good strut, almost "Ejector seat" strength. But does the job brilliantly

Mech 1 twa wrote:

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Key word; Gas Strut. This from an older post:

http://www.sourcingmap.com/20kg-44lb-lift-support-gas-strut-shock-spring-prop-11-p-158286.html

 

I have this one with advice from above and it's more than enough.  Had to drill out lower hole a bit for bushing to fit.  2 years and no issues.

I also, this is the one I replaced my OEM unit with in 2016. Still works.

I just put a replacement strut on my new to me '08. This is the third SW I've owned and the third strut I've replaced on Silverwings. I replaced the rear lift window on my '07 Jeep Liberty as well. Gas struts do leak slowly and only last for a few years in most cases. a strut with a spring would be longer lasting. Seems to me one with a spring ought to cost less for the manufacturer of the vehicle.

The struts on the rear of my Honda CRV don't seem to work so well in cold weather but they are getting a bit old at 12 years. Many years ago my Triumph estate had struts which were entirely mechanical, they locked when opened and unlocked with a slight upward push, no seals or air pressure involved similar to some I have had on kitchen cabinets.

Be careful on SUV VAN hatch struts if you replace them. Get a helper to hold it up. If the hatch flexes (only supported one side the rear glass could break). Twists and glass shatters. It's not pretty.

Very good point. I braced up the rear window of my 2007 Jeep Liberty's rear hatch window with two 2x4s when I replaced the two lift struts. On that car I don't let anyone else shut the hatch since the glass hatch is big enough I think it might be possible to break it if someone pushed it shut from one side instead of the pad in the center. That rear hatch looks like it would be mucho dinero if it broke.

I purchased 2 of the "Evil Twin" suggested struts, one for my wifes Swing and one for the Swing I gave away, and have misplaced both of them. No one rides the trike Swing so I just never got around to installing it. I have a weird feeling the seat struts ended up in the metal recycle box. I really need to rummage around the garage one day and look.