Belt hard to turn

I just changed the final drive oil and then took the challenge from Cosmic_Jumper to remove covers etc....

My neighbor helped me last time.  We changed the belt and it was a bugger to put on.

I was just playing with it and found that when rotating the belt it gets "hung up."  Be a bugger to move, then physically rotate with fingers gripping "fins" of drive face.  The rotation is really stiff, then super easy, hard than easy etc...  

I don't think this is right?  I have no idea if this is due to the whole "variator" stuff or the clutch/drive pulley/driven pulley stuff?(Using all the words in the manual and I like the word "stuff" to cover a lot of stuff. )

Have a great evening!

That sounds normal to me. The pulleys don't move fluidly and continuously like spinning a bicycle chain. Although I suppose if one had the arm strength of The Hulk you might be able to do that.

In case it's helpful, here are some notes I made after changing my belt, for review before my next belt change ....

• When placing the gear thread of the drive pulley on to the shaft, it doesn’t go on much – won’t be flush like it was when you took it off. As you tighten the bolt the drive pulley is pushed in.
• When tightening the belt, move the belt in its normal forward direction as you tighten in alternating steps (tighten/move/tighten/move). This will keep the belt from getting pinched between the variator faces and locked in (I got it locked and had to back up and start again). Keep the belt moving freely as you tighten until the wrench starts to turn the drive pulley, then add the holder tool and torque it.
• Lubricate the 17 mm. drive pulley bolt with oil before reinserting.
• Check the variator weights and guides and clean everything (Brakleen) before you put the belt back on.

I agree with Delray, the stiffness then looseness when turning the front pulley by hand.

I always assumed I was also turning the crankshaft whilst doing this and hence was meeting the compression in the cylinders. (I suppose trying it with the spark plugs removed might prove my theory).

Whatever it is, I reckon it's normal.

It also helps to briefly (split second) turn the bike on ! Not to run it but to free the pinch. I just touch the start button and let go. If it does start running, just use the kill switch. I don't have the strength to wrestle with it !

Jay

Thank you, Jay. I don't have superman strength either.

I watched a YouTube video last year. The guy made putting the belt on look so, so, so, easy.

Jim and I struggled like nutzo to get the thing on. In fact, tempers were began to flare up.

I went back to the video after Jim and I finished. Gee Wiz, the guy has biceps bigger than Popeye!

I guess it gets easier with practice

I had the same problem when I changed my belt. It's pretty much normal as you're tightening the nut.

Same for me when changing the belt. I was thinking like Loosebearing in that the compression was the cause. I should have tried like Jay says and just touch the start to make life easier. I thought for about 2 seconds that I should take out the spark plugs but that would make changing the belt like a home renovation project .... they keep getting larger for each step you take. For the variator holding tool and piece of hardwood flooring with a center hole for the socket with two holes for pinning to the finned cover worked well.

Mike

Just changed mine and used a $55 buck Chinese belt, used the vinyl coated end of my old KD pulley holder to flex open the clutch and place belt deep into it allowing me easy access to put bolt back on centrifugal pulley and get belt on. I have 16,000 on original, lets see how far the Chinese so called junk one last.I will post in some months and years to follow up. So far couldn't be happier.