- Cosmic_Jumper wrote:
- sonuvabug wrote:
- I also have a complete, post 2006 dash panel, with the much desired black textured finish including the cubby lids etc. In fact, it already has the 12v outlet installed in the left hand cubby and a rheostat installed in front for hand/seat/clothing warming devices. You can drop me a PM and let me know if you're interested in any of the above.
Good Luck with your repairs. ~ BugJr ~
Not to Hijack this topic, but what 12V outlet did you use? I got hold of an excellent quality (~$20) Goldwing outlet which was supposed to fit our Silverwing. It fit the hole fine but the screw-on collar which secures the fixture from the front side wouldn’t fit b/c it hit the bump out wall for that fixture location. IIRC the official FJS outlet part # is either unavailable in North America or prohibitively expensive.
Cosmic_Jumper, the
socket I used is BikeMaster 15-1668 Power Outlet
Socket 12V/15A. I obtained it from Fortnine.ca for $9.98 Cdn; I'm sure you can find it many places in the USA. I really like this
socket because it is mostly plastic and well sealed to eliminate any water entry/corrosion. I had a lot of fun with this unit because it wouldn't fit the factory-provided hole, even after I enlarged it to 1" with a Greenlee panel punch. The smooth part at the wire end just entered the hole but the threads interferred, as expected. There was no way the retaining nut was going to fit because of limited space on the back-side of the access port. I tried forcing the threads on the
socket to cut threads into the back of the pocket but stopped when I felt I'd just destroy the
socket's threads, which would definitely have happened. Then I went on a merry chase to find out exactly what type and size of thread the
socket used. BikeMaster still hasn't asnwered that enquiry but I measured that the threads were
12 tpi. I convinced myself that the threads were SAE O-Ring Boss 1-1/16"-
12 and went to a hydraulic shop to buy a plug fitting that I could convert into a "poor-man's tap". There I met a machinist who determined that I was actually dealing with 1-1/8"-
12 National Fine screw threads. I was then able to pick up a 4" x 1-1/8"-
12 steel bolt from a fastener specialty shop (quite a rare item), then ground the tip down to a shallow taper and cut 4 grooves with a hacksaw. The taper allowed the tip to enter the hole and a very large metric
socket (46mm) and 1/2" ratchet wrench allowed me to cut the threads. The most difficult part was holding the glove box assembly while trying to keep the "tap" square. As it turned out, the threads weren't perfectly perpendicular but good enough to screw the
socket all the way down. I'm very pleased with the result:
Can plug in 12V accessory and close pocket lid competely; I was worried that skewed threading might not allow this but I lucked out.
Very tight fitting, so doubt any water will enter but that's to be seen. I could have applied some thread sealer; sigh!
This is the 1-1/8"x4"-
12 National Fine Screw Thread bolt I converted for one time use; very easy to make by grinding taper section on tip and then cutting grooves with either a hacksaw (my choice, for control) or a thin grinding wheel. The nut seen is the plastic retaining nut that is normally used to hold the
socket in place in a slightly oversized hole; it wouldn't fit on my Silverwing, so I eliminated the need for it by tapping the access hole.
Gary