Dr pulley sliders

Hi there,

I have been looking for information about how long last the Dr pulleys sliders but other than people saying they last quite a lot I didn't find when they should be officially changed.  

So far I did 19.000 miles with them and I thinking to change them but not sure if I should buy them. I have to do the belt so I would do all in one.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

Personally I would inspect them for physical damage and then weigh then, anything much away from standard I would replace them. That's pretty much what you would do with rollers.

steve_h80 wrote:

Personally I would inspect them for physical damage and then weigh then, anything much away from standard I would replace them. That's pretty much what you would do with rollers.

Thanks for your advice.

Well that's probably the most accurate way to do it, no questions about it but personally if I have to open and then close and then open again probably I would just buy the new ones and change them.

I would rather prefer go with the theoretical miles and then change them but not sure what is the limit for our Silverwings.

Yusepe wrote:

steve_h80 wrote:

Personally I would inspect them for physical damage and then weigh then, anything much away from standard I would replace them. That's pretty much what you would do with rollers.

(Snip) I would rather prefer go with the theoretical miles and then change them but not sure what is the limit for our Silverwings.

No mileage limit for our for Dr Pulley weights on out Silverwing.

But if changing is your preference then why not make that change to lighter weight Dr Pulley or TechPulley sliding weights. That will give you the option to, not only experience lighter weights, but also to mix & match lighter & heavier weights for a 3rd weight option.

I’ve used Dr Pulley sliding weights “forever” and haven’t worn out a single one of them yet.

Just spritz the variator ramps with BP Blaster Dry Lube (the kind with Teflon) when you do the change.

As long as you clean/blow out dust out of cvt area and clean air filter regulary, they should last very long time, I usually recommend to clean(or replace if needed) cvt air filter at every oil change and remove cover, blow out/clean/inspect cvt every other oil change. IAC, I usually do mine at least twice a year, a lot of dust is generated from within/inside the case, clutch and belt wear dust, etc. Your cvt belt, etc., will last longer.

Much appreciate your answers. I have read many of your posts @Cosmic_Jumper, an honor to get your reply.

I don't do too much maintenance on the CVT (each two years, around 10k miles). So I suppose the answer is open-check and replace if necessary. I was trying to avoid opening the driver pulley several times because I feel it is risky to strip the screw. What I would do is to keep it open in the garage and then wait for the replacement if necessary.

Those are the ones in use:


About the weights itself to be honest I'm happy with whatever the acceleration is I'm more interested in reliability. For example, one thing I'm going to do is change the seal rubber of the cover.

PB Blaster Dry Lube: I'm not sure, in the service manual it doesn't say anything about grease the sliders.

I have to buy this tool:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Donnagelia-Flywheel-Variator-Spanner-Motorcycle/dp/B07FY4RGZT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=RJ58VHBNQ2U8&keywords=variator+tool&qid=1649705144&sprefix=variator+tool+%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-5

The original belt is around 100 pounds (UK) . If someone (UK) can recommend a cheaper one with the same quality it would be great but I suppose that's not possible.

Thanks guys for helping me to get ready for the summer.
Cheers.

Oh no! No need to buy that Special Tool. The nubs on that tool are too short to efficiently fit in the variator. You’ll need a 3rd hand to hold that tool to the variator while you are removing the bolt. Instead make your own tool as shown below. That way you can use slightly longer bolts to fit deeper inside the variator holes for a secure attachment.



And here is the original Bruce Koehler post from the old Yahoo Honda Reflex (NSS250) forum with his directions:

https://doc-0s-2g-docs.googleusercontent.com/docs/securesc/cc1ghf7kktuug7285db9blodcrbrr6lh/vu6krakptb0705cu3rvbsmqvqb0ub5vp/1649710575000/15261346405374738171/13505561053104001508/0B-lQ7Ifo_iuqRWh2dUdtWGxtTVE?resourcekey=0-iybDLYsO8rtmfE5jmvIf2Q&e=download&ax=ACxEAsZuFPBYOcv787XwudhFt6IwDut61rjlUsWx7Jd9XcrX09lnEwAi7QBFD3-go_q-Ie930G_bLMVM9DfcdCJSQuyI0fFATrgOI_K-zSwz2R2kQ2xnsFCXa1y3YH5EZGfYvAJdBHMB1izIcikELxNl3MIwxKqJ0PL-CBqPf72qWWBU7HZORtdYCl5rVN_ZRcAZWECnWufDDt1P_TmO3hFeQqdN10FOijbJaaeXNMaHaOz-cx0hTqBxBvcz362fBCWfVAf5C8DWb_Y4KPJ7M9ZJ63UDTxXxD5WzAIvn3fufV3QBW_77xrcv5GVyNRWHw7l9-ez6j07mu2-gXCChgkm4EyEe2pKNlnEpe097XyRswaZbdVe0dRLe2ICNiLXbdJOXuLxz7hYms34bh5b3tNQzCMaUU_CfjgPVEV7qXjPkJI_-2Spy6U3VE3wCr-nnJcXzFuCc1A8cCjABBpEo-OWNxX3PyxPMv93_NrHuSzBLt3_EHWgNHJJ2UDgIF8_SQH2u8eoOMnmg7YhxwXlVzZo-PpjmL9OW9ChJIWKTYkCy-v0am6V0r5FM9NCygl0JA_hKglWV6GNlafZgXqkI6ZOeQ-tCskKUAYLRXbEOU1qLhACPYSuLNvY5leSDQrLPSUytRb8zJJHrG-N5zihkcPBP-2yoh5sVPDiA5oCL43X7k21DmGyd3ZSWJPLwot9e82N7x70-&authuser=0&nonce=gv4av32t54tms&user=13505561053104001508&hash=o7dgis2cs923kfhonirmgqj695sb8vm3

And You can use an impact gun to remove the variator if you feel the need. But please, please do not use an impact gun to reinstall the variator bolt. Use the tool and a torque wrench (75 lbs ft IIRC) to install the bolt by hand to kind of pinch the belt. Then run the bolt up firmly to pinch the belt again; remove the tool and rotate the variator counter clockwise to free the belt; repeat as necessary until the variator face is fully seated. Then use the tool and the torque wrench to finish. It’s a simple job. Just do it in a few steps. An impact gun can get you in a whole lot of trouble real quick, e.g. install the variator face crooked or pinch the belt too tight.

Thanks Tim.

I'm definitely not going to use an impact gun. I saw the mechanic do it and I didn't like it, I feel some of them don't have experience working with scooters. Bad news is that he used thread locker. That's why I prefer to do it myself with a torque wrench that I already have. I don't have the materials and tools to create that nice tool so probably I'll give it a go asking someone else to give me a hand. There are other alternative methods that use a piston stopper through the spark plug.

In order to avoid pinch the belt I love this trick: (minute 5:00)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCSRvnm09KM

Many thanks.

Yusepe wrote:

(Snip) In order to avoid pinch the belt I love this trick: (minute 5:00)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCSRvnm09KM

Squeezing the belt like that is a good trick if you are fortunate enough to have the scoot on a lift. But if you are like many of us here you’ll be working on the floor and will be hard pressed to gain the leverage for that squeeze. Using a section of old belt is a nice trick to wedge open the DP halves though.

For what it's worth, I tried Dr Pulley sliders for about 6000 miles and then I began to get the 'V' light coming on due to over-revving. I'm sure it's covered on this forum, it might be worth some study.

Just my half-a-crown's worth.

I think it depends on how you ride Loosemarbles.
You and I are obviously un-reconstructed hooligans so beloved by the V light pixie

Touche! :

Here's a Sym400 belt, etc. Sym shop service video, good overall, but kinda let me down when he used impact to tighten pulley bolts, but I've really like his technique to pull belt down into rear pulley around 9:15+ minute mark. Trying that next time I mess with a belt.

I wish they brought those Sym MaxSym 400/600 to the US they look fairly good quality and I like the big thumpers torque

https://youtu.be/XLRfXpMNovM

zrx212 wrote:

I wish they brought those Sym MaxSym 400/600 to the US they look fairly good quality and I like the big thumpers torque

https://youtu.be/XLRfXpMNovM

Both the SYM Maxsym 400 and 600 models you like were discontinued in the UK a few years ago. Although there were a few Maxsym 600's hanging about in SYM dealers for a long time afterwards.



Personally I think the various range of 300's that SYM have brought out over the years like the GTS, Joymax, and Cruisym are more innovative, interesting, and owner friendly.

There's also a new Maxsym 400 now available that's got all the toys you expect these days, keyless ignition, traction control, multifunction instrument display, full LED lights etc.

" There's also a new Maxsym 400 now available " unfortunately the biggest model Sym available here is the Citycom S300i, I also like the new TL508, but N/A here either.

Ak550 is the only player here, but ....