Bearing Inside Belt/Drive Cover

I remember seeing a video on how to remove and replace that bearing inside the belt/drive cover using some flat steel plate, some nuts and bolts and some wood...but I'm darned if I can find it. I think it was from our friend Stefano Bonacasa. I've searched You Tube and this forum without success.

Does anyone remember which topic it appeared in or have the link to you tube?

Many thanks

that is one tough bearing to replace. I used the wet toilet paper method but grease method would be faster. if there is a next time I will be drilling two holes in cover so I can use punch driver.

I'm not familiar with the wet toilet paper method, how does that work? I can't quite make it out from the pics.

IIRC StevenB used a couple of bolts which just fit in the bearing. What’d that be, maybe M8? Anyway he ground down the bolt head width and then the bolt head thickness until it fit under the bearing. The bolt head is now “L” shaped. So the bolt heads were inserted under the bearing and then rotated to catch the underside. The bolt threads, now facing up, were inserted into a flat bar which had appropriately spaced holes and secured by nuts. The flat bar had a larger center hole with a long bolt and some kind of “block” which fit on that center casting. It also may have been that the bearing pocket, both inside & street side, was heated with a heat gun too. Anyway that center bolt was cranked down and the “L” shaped bolts pulled the bearing up & out.

A second alternative would be: You’ll need a sturdy workbench and a ~18” section of 4” x 4” lumber. The 4 x 4 is laid down on the bench parallel and near the front edge. The bearing pocket (inside & outside) is heated. Really heated. Use a proper heat gun or judiciously use a gas torch. When the pocket is good & hot grasp the smaller end of the cover (gloved hands), turn it over so that the bearing side is facing down, swing it down very abruptly & firmly on to the 4 x 4 the bearing will pop out. Effort = Results. The 4 x 4 is there to protect the edge of the belt case.

Ah yes, thanks Tim. I can picture it in my head now. As I don't have a proper heat gun I think I prefer your first explanation. I reckon I can fabricate the tool.

grease and wet paper is same method. the spacer in pictures was simple to maker.. its just a section of strap iron rolled to correct width. needs to fit snug in gap. apply grease to gap. ie. get it packed, no air pockets. place spacer over the gap and wack with hammer. the grease hydraulically pops bearing out from behind. its a joy to see work first time. common practice on older cars with pilot bearings pressed  into clutch flywheels.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00OlG5E8vLk

NO WAY! Now I've got a decision to make.

Hydraulic power works nice even force on all sides of bearing but only works with a sealed bearing.
Use plenty of paper nothing like that feeling when the paper tears.

OK, so I've re-read all of the above and decided to change this bearing. I've checked out Stefano Bonnacasa's video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1ScWKkpZHo I can fabricate the removal tool.

Sadly it doesn't show the method of replacement without subscribing. I'm paranoid about subscribing to you tube stuff using bank details etc. although I fully respect Stefano's right to do so.

The issue seems to be; 'how far in do you push the new bearing'? Does it go all the way to the stop? I guess it can't because there is obviously space underneath it to put in the 'L shaped' bolts when removing it.

Also, does the casing shrink back to it's normal size after heating? Maybe some of you more techy guys out there can help  

Hi Chris.

For what the right tool for the job costs here are 2 alternatives in price, either will work fine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305004700312?hash=item4703b26298:g:KbEAAOSwHrld5ALN&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8F8B7WRYoB49ubQFBVyup4Jlo9aJMkf26xl5vEKaDinxodpPqSk98cgRyyQ3CgSrUa2uo4XDkeAIBOO4XoNXuut%2FwYAOmeCzSL0567e%2FW6ox6EFUtP3mm5Wyjv8Tn3WiNBsg8T2C3utA0oh5%2BVoPo4aAom0OBcU1KdIUjqPG62N%2BT1lAcrSKRJj7CSuUiJMSOKMgu87FrY0MW7N%2BOjrxF66XFpYUYESGp6sBAkzubUC67JI%2F73IVX7dXnZQGQRb6n9h8m%2F2P1WvHaJWlM611VqsDj6zG0Yz0Oq1nXby%2B1M8bgt30GEhYh49gTsXeai%2FLYw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7S_lcqjYg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394573524427?hash=item5bde6a2dcb:g:5bsAAOSwVstkPWpI&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0J8YewrMy2u4i%2Bjj0l%2BiCJCV9WFYElePbOM8S7S3%2FBP1zbdA3sMR1t7JAPFoWwY3ZjBksX9uW5Q%2FXlNNePFHDvR8gWMwmyPS1BwZvQQ6Lqb6rar5a2IgXu6nzSNGHDfRgu6qfqHDc8HFCkLQLymx%2BMdRhrByncb3dWHSt6o8AMHJFFNrUd5bP9bR39Mw%2F8AQgM5OAvXaFNfL26QbKpBDxxD2FL%2FFg7tCHreHMFXWvpqKebbkZcGs58%2Fz%2FBcN2qYOBu3hdtCIJjo%2BXhpcwxR5vYk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7C_lcqjYg

Not a Fan of heating extruded Ali. only as a very last resort.
Just soak bearing and housing over night in WD, should just pop out with either tool.

Hope this helps

Thanks Johny. Some food for thought. Will the 'hooks' of this device get under the bearing or does it just apply pressure to the inner surface enough to pull it out?

Hi Chris.

The "Hooks" lock behind the bearing enough for extraction.
You might need to fettle the "right angle" with a square needle file, depending on manufacture.

The more expensive set is the next lvl in "locking" onto a Blind Bearing. And very similar to my Sealey AK716 set I use, just lacks a screw type "Bridge" extractor.

Hope this helps.

I think I prefer the 'slide hammer' set. Am I right in assuming the AK716 set gives you the option of 'slide hammer' or 'pulling'....using the bridge? If so, it's nice piece of kit but a bit beyond my budget.

I'm still not sure about the method of installing the new bearing to make sure it sits at the right depth. I guess it doesn't go all the way to the stop...or is there a 'blind stop' built into the bearing housing?

Hi Chris

Yes to your assumptions. The bearing would pop out on the first slide, or at least half way on a medium stroke with 1.5kg slide hammer, just "pinched" tight compared with metal bearing housings.

You can only press the bearing in flush with the casting using a press, so if you are going to tap the bearing in with a dead weight mallet the same thought should apply.
Fashion a hard wood block to overlap the bearing and use it to drift the bearing in flush with the casting.
The hardest part of the job is gently starting the bearing on it's little journey, then a couple of modest taps, job done.
With no access to a press, most would probably use a socket upside down to drift the bearing in but that has drawbacks like jamming off centre.
Just take your time, I believe it's well within your scope having read your posts in the past.

Hope this helps.