Clutch removal of 22mm bolt

Hello, i,m Roland from the Netherlands (fj600 from 2005)and i,m doing maintenance on my FJS600.
Ive made the tool to remove the variator and now i want to remove the clutch to replace the clutch plates.
Only the 22mm bolt wont unloosen ive tried my hi impact air tool aswell a 22mm socket wrench (stahlwille so no cheap tool.
Even if i aply the hand and the disc brake with my wife sitting on the bike for a bit more weight on the rear wheel, either my wife
is not big enough or i,m to strong, probably the last haha.
Ive seen in the manual there should be a tool for this only cant find it nowhere, maybe there is something i can make myself.
I,m 6 foot 3 so a big guy but that bolt wont go loose.
Is here maybe a fix or something, last resort would be aplying heat but i,m not keen on doin that.
Thanks in advance.

Roland

Hello Roland. That 22mm nut is only supposed  to be torqued to ~42 ft-lb (~56Nm). I can’t imagine why it’s not coming OFF unless some dickfingered nimrod used an impact gun to “really” tighten that nut. And then that same “mechanic” might well have cross-threaded that nut on the shaft when he installed it the previous time.

IIRC the tool for holding the clutch bell is the same as the “Y”-shaped variator tool but with shorter nubs to fit behind the clutch bell and grab the holes in the bell. While the “official” Honda variator tool has short nubs but takes 3 hands to use to remove the variator.

You might try posting your tool question to FaceBook’s Italian SWCI page. Perhaps the maestro, Stefano Bonacasa, himself will weigh in with some advice. https://www.facebook.com/groups/143659382676461/

I just loosened that bolt this morning. It was easy. I set the parking brake, held the left brake grip firmly and used a breaker bar and then a torque wrench with my right hand.

Tim's theory might be right (Denny Dickfingers strikes again!). Something is not normal with your situation.

For the last 2 days i used wd40 wich i hoped it would penetrate, but i do not think is the problem here,
ive seen in the bell house there are indeed 3 holes, isnt there a tool for inserting there, or maybe better
something you can make youreself, yesterday i made a tool for removing the variator and i used 20x8 mm steel
maybe a bit overkill but his nut was also overtightend.
But that one lost, would aplying heat help in loosen the 22mm bolt ?

If this nut is on so tight that you have been unable to loosen it using an air impact tool then the shaft threads are pretty much knackered. At this point what have you got to lose by applying heat?

I suspect that the nut has been cross threaded so it might be prudent to expect to replace that clutch shaft when you finally remove the Driven Pulley assembly. IIRC it’s not a job that requires special tools —once the Driven Pulley and clutch bell are removed.

Best to find a copy of the Factory Service Manual for guidance. For this Driven Pulley / clutch shaft business all years of the FSM are the same.

Um… You are turning the wrench in the proper direction, aren’t you?    
Lefty loosey, righty tightey

It's an old trick but sometimes it works, slightly tighten then loosen, repeat a few times with the addition of a good penetrating oil.

I had the same problem when I first removed the clutch. I got a friend to sit on the bike with the front wheel against a wall. Using a length of scaffolding pipe for leverage, it came off.

There was no damage but I did put a new nut on when I put it back together.

thanks for all the nice comments, but none of them worked unfortunately, i,m a mechanical engineer in daily life and
work worldwide to maintain repair and upgrade industrial equipment.
So next saturday i,m going to fabricate something myself, only there is very little room.
Well we wil see.........i,m not going to let a damn scooter beat me.

Aircooled's first post was the same for me, even waiting for my son to come home and apply the rear brake, all to no avail. So time for a quick buzz of the nut with an induction gun(always a worry) and 850 Nms of Dewault.. Bingo it came undone. Now I could see someone had used Loctight thread seal.......

The Induction gun is the only type of heat gun to use in this scenario to keep the heat local to the nut because of the bearing behind the nut. It will also melt any Loctight that may have been applied.

What ever you decide to do, good luck, my Dewault was the "make or break" moment.....

Be safe, be seen!

Hello, i was aware of the fact there is a bearing behind the nut, but when spinning the clutch it
felt a bit worn so got to replace that one to.
Ok yesterda tried the air tool, didnt work, applied heat didnt work either, ok now i got
a bit pissed, so i applied some more heat, put a 22mm socket with a manual wrench and used
a 500gr copper hamer, hit it 2 times and it was loose, the *&%$# bolt lost, does anybody what bearing is in the clutch.
Thanks for all the help and symphatie

Yes that bearing (91004-MCT-003) is replaceable but it is a very tedious job. The industrial # for that bearing is 6003U. So you should be able to find it locally. A few here have stepped up to the challenge of replacing that bearing using especially modified tools (Mech 1 twa to name one). But in the end you’d be much better off biting the bullet and ordering the Driven Face assembly (23221-MCT-315) from a Honda source. It comes with the bearings already installed.



               ^^^^^^^^^
Sorry for the out of focus screen shot.

Here’s a link to a previous discussion about replacing the Driven Pulley bearings. https://www.silverwing600.com/t7766-driven-pulley-assembly-rebuild?highlight=Bearing

Whenever this topic comes around again I always wonder if anyone has had the misfortune to pop off a tooth from a transmission gear or broken a cam timing chain using impact tools or big hammers.

Delray wrote:

I just loosened that bolt this morning. It was easy. I set the parking brake, held the left brake grip firmly and used a breaker bar and then a torque wrench with my right hand.

Tim's theory might be right (Denny Dickfingers strikes again!). Something is not normal with your situation.

Easy guys us dickfingered nimrods have feeling you know,,I’m guilty of that on my 50cc