Oil Changing Pictorial

Hi,

I changed my oil today and took some pictures and decided to make a "Pictorial" of how I did it. This is really just for those who don't know how to change the oil, or for those that think that they aren't mechanically inclined enough to do this. It is one of the easiest types of maintenance that you can do. If you already know how, or have worked on things before, you probably already know this or have a better way to do it. This just works good for me.





(PDF Format)

Nice pictures and description Jeff. When i change my oil after i drain the oil, remove the filter and the oil dip stick. I then start my engine and let it run for about 2 to 3 seconds. You would be surprised, about another half quart comes out. So instead of putting in 2.25 quarts it takes 2.75 quarts. which is about 20% to 25% more of the old oil your getting out.

I know some people might say " your running the engine without oil".
but there is oil residual on all the part and when you start an engine for the first couple of seconds there isn't oil pressure anyway. It takes a short time to build up oil pressure and that is why the oil light stays on for a short time when you start your bike. This shouldn't hurt your bike, but does remove more of the old oil and lets you put more fresh oil in.

Paul,

I never thought about doing that since I just figured most just came out. I don't think it will hurt anything either since, like you said, there is some residual oil and the engine isn't warm or hot anyway. It's probably like starting your car or bike up after resting it for a day or so. Thanks.

Jeff,
I love your post. I have been reading a lot of articles about oil and oil filters. I guess I may start a war but I feel obligated to share the tests I believe performed by Mark Lawrence. He is very convinced the Fram filter is not a good filter. His website is located at:
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/ I also like Leroy Beal’s website at:
http://www.leroybeal.net/ He also has studied various filters. See his website at:

http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/oilfilters/Motorcycle%2520oil%2520filters%2520exposed.pdf

Both of these websites do not recommend the Fram filter. Maybe this should be another thread.

Dennis,

Thanks. The reason I bought the Fram is because I read somewhere that it is just as good as the Honda but cheaper. I can't remember where I read that but it had to have been a Silver Wing site. I will read through the links you provided since Im' curiours now. Thanks.

I totally agree with your recommendations of articles on oil & filters. I have personally been using the Wal-Mart SuperTech ST-7317 in both the S'Wing and my Road Star (interesting...they both use the same filter!). The S'Wing only has a little over 2000 miles, but I have over 15000 trouble-free miles in all kinds of conditions on the Roadie, and in my opinion, the ST7317 can't be beat...especially for $2 and change!

Gene

PS - For the Original Post...great pictorial!!

Jeff Is the picture of the oil drain plug the right thing It looks like its an allan wrench not a socket when i look under the cruiser there is a bolt/plug that looks like that and then theres one that looks to need a 24mm socket????

cruiser,

The oil plug/bolt is a 24mm bolt. I will need to look at the pictorial again concerning the allen wrench. But the oil plug is a 24mm bolt.

The oil plug bolt is actually called the tappit. It is called the tappit because in the 1970's Honda put that exact same bolt over each valve on the 750 Four so that you get to and adjust the valves easily. Back then that bolt over each valve was called a tappit and it is still called a tappit. I have broken several of them on the Honda Silver Wing and when you call the parts house and tell them you need another one sent overnight you have to tell them that you want the tappit for the Honda Silver Wing.

Thanks Jeff the pic on my screen makes the bolt head look inverted. when I was looking under the bike there's and allen wrench bolt to the rear then up a bit that the pic did look like.
Sorry for the confusion

how much oil do i need to chnge?

theop wrote:

how much oil do i need to chnge?

All of it.

At draining: 2.0L or 2.1 US qt
At oil filter change: 2.2L or 2.3 Us qt

It would be a good time to also change the final drive oil too.

FYI, if you have an Auto Zone near you, they carry 24mm 1/2" drive sockets that work perfectly.

--Russ

russcarver wrote:

FYI, if you have an Auto Zone near you, they carry 24mm 1/2" drive sockets that work perfectly.

--Russ

Seem to have 1 STUCK -- the damn thing won't budge!! Socket just wants to roll off. Any answers??

Oh -- "tappit" is not a viable answer, tried already!!

x

Hi.

Just changed my oil and filter.

The owner's handbook states the oil filter torque should be 26 NM but I could not find a reference to the torque setting of the engine oil drain plug.

Can someone please let me know what it should be.

15Nm or 11lbf-ft

x

I changed my oil for the first time today. This was actually the second oil change for my silverwing, but I had the dealer do the first service last fall. I have just over 4000 miles on the odometer. The book says 8000 but the dealer told me that they extend the mileage out as far as they can to reduce the "perceived environmental impact." Changing the oil less often means less oil to dispose of and therefore less impact. (Don't get me started on this environmental crap.) He recommended about every 4000 miles and not to exceed 5000.

Anyhow, after reading this article on oil filters, I used the Purolator Pure One PL14610 filter and I was surprised at how much longer it was than the stock Honda filter. It was almost 1½ times as long. I purchased an oil filter socket to fit it but because of the extended length I will be unable to use it as the filter just barely fits in the space allowed. I used Castrol GTX and chose 10-W30 as that is what they recommend for cooler climates like here in Missouri.

I was really surprised at how nasty the oil that came out of it was. It was really black and full of sludge. When I change the oil on my Chinese scooter (which has no filter and therefore needs it every 1000 miles) it usually is darker than it went in, but not as nasty as this stuff. Could it be because this was from the break in period? Or perhaps it was from the relative non use it has had for the last 3-4 months. I got it out and started it up a few times over the winter, but it did a lot of sitting.

All in all today was a rainy day and I was just longing for something to do that was scooter related so I let it warm up and then had my garage fun.

x

I've used Castrol for years in most of what I run. I switched to Valvoline Max Life in my truck. As far as the JASO-MA Rating, I'll have to plead ignorance. I did look to make sure it was SG (or better) and it is. As for the black oil, I thought the filter was there to prevent that. Clean it up so you're not running sludge through your engine.

Hi Mitch,

On the subject of how much force to use on the aluminum drain plug and oil filter. First, always use a 6 sided socket and never a 12 or you will strip the hex head right off it. The drain plug has an O-ring that seals it without putting a whole lot of torque on it. A very small torque (snug it up) should keep it installed till your next oil change.

When installing a new filter, always clean the surface of where the filter mounts to the scooter and then rub a little (a light coat) clean engine oil on the new filter gasket.

Spin the new filter on till the gasket touches the clean sealing surface and then give the filter an extra 3/4 to 1 turn more, NO MORE. Add your new oil and go for a ride.

x

I agree with only using a 6 pt socket and not over-tightening it.  I know you won't know if you tightened it too hard until the next time you try to remove the tappit and then you can't get it off.  I rounded mine off and it wasn't hard to do at all.  I have changed my oil for the last 4 years but the last time I tried to remove it I couldn't.  I had to take it to the shop since I have limited tools.  I tried everything I had but nothing worked.  

I also had the coolant and the battery replaced since the battery was dead and I tried charging it a few times but it would last a week at most.  So I had it replaced too while the bike was in the shop.  But  as Dennis said you don't really need to crank the tappit down much at all.  I really wish this thing was deeper because then it wouldn't have rounded off.  Also, wipe the oil off of the tappit really good.  Even if you have to get wet-wipes to get it really clean.  Like I said, I have changed the oil for the last 4 years and always change it before I probably need to and I was amazed at how easy the thing rounded off.

Thanks for feedback on oil drain bolt.

I Have now torqued it correctly.

I know the owner's manual recommends SAE 10W 30 but it does not preclude the use of a 10W 40 oil - I refilled engine with Castrol GTX 10W 40 and so I hope it is OK.

As others have mentioned on this thread, I was concerned about using a socket to remove the oil drain tappet. This morning, I performed an oil and filter change on my Silver Wing. In addition to using Shell Rotella T6 oil for the first time (thanks, bigbird!), I used a newly arrived 24mm, 6 point wrench from eBay to loosen and tighten the tappet.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MSR-6-POINT-RIDER-WRENCH-STEEL-17MM-24MM-/370533099081?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56457e6649

Compared to using a socket, I perceived a much more secure grip on the tappet with the new 24mm wrench. Having used this wrench once, I will most likely not use the 24mm socket again, even though it's 6 point as well, for oil changes.

x.

Being able to see the bottom of the tappet from below while holding the wrench firmly in place was helpful for me. The wrench thickness is very close to the tappet head height (not sure "head height" is the right term but hopefully descriptive enough...). I found that useful.

The socket came from Tractor Supply. Maybe not the best, but I used it on two other occasions. It worked OK, but I prefer using the wrench having tried both tools.

Use what works in your hand. If I change my oil I'll use my 6 point socket.
If YOU change my oil for me please use your 24mm, 6 point wrench.

Hi guys,

Will my Honda tool kit that came with the bike have a wrench that will take off the oil drain plug?

Will the local motorcycle shop have a filter I will need?

Mike

No and yes. :flower:

Silverwing, I doubt if your tool kit will have the drain plug tool. usually all they have is screwdriver and maybe a spark plug wrench. Part number for oil filter on my 09 is 15410-MFJ-D01. Probably the same as yours. It is a standard Honda oil filter used on many of their models.

Bob

I saw 6 to 7 tools in the tool kit. One even looked like an oil filter wrench. I wonder if the former owner added some tools.

Mike

Cool, maybe did add tools. Is it a cup type oul filter wremch?

Bob

I just took a look at the tool kit and looked under the bike. it's been sitting on one spot for two weeks and only now do i see it's leaking a little oil on the under side.

I will probably have the dealer do the first oil change with instructions to see if he can find out why it's leaking oil and fix the problem.

I asked if they checked the bike out mechanically before I bought it and they said just the basics. I'd think an oil leak should have been disclosed. What do you guys think?

My Scoot has just had it's 4000 mile service and the technician (they used to be mechanics to us older folk !) gave me some advice about the sump drain plug. He said always to use a socket for replacing so that a torque wrench can be used and he warned me about the low value of the setting. One useful piece of info. was to look for impact sockets as they are usually six pointers, I suspect that they are the ones with the black finish instead of plating.

While truly black oil is not good, as long as you are following specs oil in the engine will get darker than in the can . that does not call for an early change

Just changed my oil again this afternoon and I wanted to compliment Jeff on the excellent pictorial and information. I remembered that when I had done my first oil change people told me that I had used the wrong oil so I came back here to make sure I got the right stuff. Found that Castrol makes a motorcycle oil that conforms to all the pertinent specifications.

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between "motorcycle" oil and regular oil of the same viscosity? The motorcycle oil has the JASO MA rating and the regular does not, but what exactly does that mean?

Another good piece of advice concerning oil filters: The oil filter for your silverwing is the same filter used in the same year Honda Civic (and most other Honda vehicles) I also found out totally by accident that it is the same filter that fits my Nissan Frontier. Just good information to keep in the back of your mind so when you go to the auto parts store you aren't scrambling trying to remember the number of the filter you need.

I'm glad the pictorials helped you. As for the oil, I couldn't tell you the difference between motorcycle and car oil. I just use synthetic oil usually unless I just happen to be in the mood to buy motorcycle oil. I know the SWing is darn near bulletproof.

Is the filter for the honda car cheaper than the filter for the SWing? I know there is a filter , I think Fram, that is only a few dollars. I don't really get too nick picky about the oil and filter myself. I did use Royal Purple once in my Swing and I noticed I had to "top" it off 3 times before my 3,000 mile change, so I won't use Royal Purple again. I would hate to go on a long trip and keep having to fill the oil up.

Thanks for the info.

Honda does not recommend using oils that have friction modifiers in there motorcycles. Most but not all motorcycles use engine oil in the clutch area.
You do not have this to worry about in your S/W. Honda had there oil compound changed (eliminated Zinc) when they started using catalytic converters.Zinc is good for high load areas like camshaft lobes.They have used other engineering to compensate for this.
On a side note, I always fill the oil filter with oil before installing.This goes back to the day when some engines had a problem with oil pump prime after a oil change.The S/W does not have this problem but I like to get the oil around as fast as possible and eliminate the knocking noise you might here when first starting after a oil change. NWSSC

Nice pictorial Jeff. I am new to cycling but I do my own repairs on all of my cars. Can you possibly take a picture of where the oil filter is located? The close up is fine but it doesnt really show me where to look on the bike to find it. Also I am assuming the bike needs to be on the center stand which is something I have yet to sucessfully do,,,,,yes I am a real rookie to cycling this is my first bike.,

vbanks1956 wrote:

Nice pictorial Jeff. I am new to cycling but I do my own repairs on all of my cars. Can you possibly take a picture of where the oil filter is located? The close up is fine but it doesnt really show me where to look on the bike to find it. Also I am assuming the bike needs to be on the center stand which is something I have yet to sucessfully do,,,,,yes I am a real rookie to cycling this is my first bike.,

The oil filter is located under the bike close to the sidestand. You have to lay down, if you don't have a lift, to see it. Be sure to read the advice on changing the oil. There has been a number of discussions on putting the bike on the centerstand. Use the search function if you want to read them. Basically, you make sure both sides of the centerstand legs are on a level hard surface and push down on the centerstand while guiding the bike up. It's really easy with a litttle practice. Again I say, use the search function. There is a lot of information there.

Hi there. I'm a new member of this forum. Maybe it's me but I am unable to access the PDF file that was meant to be displayed on this thread. Although it says PDF at the bottom of the post there is no attachment there to click through to.

I don't think it's my computer, as I have been able to access other PDFs perfectly. If anyone has downloaded it, could you please PM me and we can agree how to access it. Or maybe someone could re-attach it via a post on this thread?

Many thanks,

Nic

Ditto on the pdf file not being there.

Cheers,

I think the PDF got zapped somehow. :flower:

I did the oil and filter change anyway, pretty easy. Used the trick others have mentioned here and turned over the engine for a few seconds when emptying the old oil to get it to spit out as much of the crud as possible. When I filled up she took 2.7 litres of oil without oveflowing, i.e about a pint more than advised in the manual.

After warming up the engine for 2-3 minutes the dipstick now shows she's slightly overfilled, but I reckon it should be OK (unless anyone advises differently?). The amount of old oil that came out, btw, was about 1.8l. This is from a previous oil change at a dealer, so I reckon they just drained and re-filled without a dipstick check.

Hi,

I just put the pictorial in. I'm not sure what is happening since I had to do this for another one about 1 month ago. But you may want to go into the Pictorial section and save all of the .pdf's for maintenance to your own computer.

Can I use SM grade Oil in the SW? Web says yes. Any contraindications here?

So my manual says 10W-30 SG or higher grade Oil. Dealer and Advanced Auto have 10W-40 but not 10W-30. I'm in the mood to change my oil...

I have a case of 10W-30 SM rated oil from Shell. Internet research says higher letter grades are "better" - most oil is rated SJ which is a higher letter grade.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Using_SM-Rated_Oil_Instead_of_SG.aspx

This is my third oil change for my 2006 Swing, now at 18,000. First was at 10,300 when I got it (got sludge), second at 14,000 looked pretty clean, but now it looks a little dark and it has been almost a year. I figure at least once a year is necessary. And yes, I ran during the winter, though not much. Drive oil is also getting a change even though it looks clean. Been 2 years since I changed that.

You probably can run either 10W-30 or 10W-40 - the manual (at least for my 2012) has a chart that shows the temperature ranges for both.

Honda says to use something that meets MA specs. You don't need that for a wet clutch, but I believe they spec it due to the differing requirements for anti-foam in MA vs. standard automotive oils. Lots of people don't run MA and it seems to work, but I run MA since that's what Honda says (and they usually have reasoning behind their statements, even if I'm not smart enough to see it!).

As for SG vs SM, not sure, but I thought you could use the SM in place of SG too - but I'd research that or wait for someone else to chime in there.

For the cost use synthetic 10/30 0r 10 40 0r 5/40 .What ever is on sale at the time. change your diff oil, with same motor oil when doing the oil change.