Oil Changing Pictorial

First topic message reminder :

Hi,

I changed my oil today and took some pictures and decided to make a "Pictorial" of how I did it. This is really just for those who don't know how to change the oil, or for those that think that they aren't mechanically inclined enough to do this. It is one of the easiest types of maintenance that you can do. If you already know how, or have worked on things before, you probably already know this or have a better way to do it. This just works good for me.





(PDF Format)

thanks for the pics it not time for my first oil change yet but now I know where everything is . but I will say this and it might just be me. but I would run the old oil filter for 100,000 miles before I ever ran a fram oil filter for 10 miles. but what is a good oil to run in it.

madwolf,

I'm glad the Pictorial will help you.  You may want to change your "Final Drive Oil" at the same time.  There is a Pictorial for that as well.  I have a Pictorial that is different than what the manual says.  With mine you only need an open end wrench and a small oil can.  The manual has you removing all sorts of stuff.

https://www.silverwing600.com/t200-changing-the-final-drive-oil-pictorial

I've got 90,000+ miles on my '03 and used Mobil 1 10w-40 Full Synthetic, NON ENERGY CONSERVING oil since the first oil change. Lately I've switched to the High Mileage version of that oil. It's usually much cheaper in 5 qt jugs at Walmart.

Others will chime in with differing opinions.

Tim

thx for post.
very helpful
I myself changing oil
most of the Castrol 10v30
Last time I only oil without filters.
I could not find
otherwise all ok works.
thanks to images

Glad the pictorial helped you out.

That's me in a nutshell ... mechanically challenged.  LUV the pictorals and the dialogue underneath each.   I  may even undertake an oil change.  THANKS!
Homer

Okiedolkle wrote:

That's me in a nutshell ... mechanically challenged.  LUV the pictorals and the dialogue underneath each.   I  may even undertake an oil change.  THANKS!
Homer

 


   Be sure to read the part about using a 6 pt (not 12pt)  24mm socket to remove the oil drain plug. I picked mine up at Auto Zone. I did mine and I would probably make you look like a master technician.  

so you add the oil through the dipstick hole?

roders wrote:

so you add the oil through the dipstick hole?

     Yes. I used a long funnel to avoid dripping oil.

I made my first oil change today. I knew it would not get into the shop for its 600 mile service until its got about 1100 miles since I ride it a lot. I am currently at 760 miles and my service center / dealer is a hundred miles away. so it got the Squatty Scott oil and lube special. Until I can get it in there on July 15.

The pictoral was helpful, thanks for posting it. For those who might be dreading trying it, its all right there and easy to get to. The filter and tappit are maybe 6 inches apart and when you lay down on the right side and look they are right there. So save yourself some bucks and do this yourself, you can probably get a 12 pack of beer with the $ you save. I am still taking it in for its 600 mile service, but it will probably be its second 600 mile service.

I totally agree, why risk running your engine with no oil? Advantages are few and the disadvantage could be disastrous! I change my oil when warm/hot. Less convenient (use plastic gloves) but warm oil runs out like water. Same effect basically w/o starting the motor...

Should I need to change the oil on my 2005 silverwing.. since the last 2 years I only rode it less then 100 miles ? I do put stabilizers in the gas for the winter when I don't use it..

thx for the response.

Boating123, IMHO yes I would change it, when I bought mine it had been stored, one of the first things I did was change oil and filter and final drive. Latter in the fall / winter season I put a new drive belt on changed the air filter and cleaned up the final drive. t was a peace of mind thing for me knowing all was right.

My 2¢: If full synthetic oil was used in that "most recent" oil change then I don't see the need for changing. Full synthetic oil doesn't break down and prevents condensation from forming in the engine parts. Full synthetic oil sitting in your engine isn't going to degrate any more so than if it was still in the can sitting on the shelf.

Tim

Great info, Thanks

Boating123 wrote:

Should I need to change the oil on my 2005 silverwing.. since the last 2 years I only rode it less then 100 miles ? I do put stabilizers in the gas for the winter when I don't use it..

thx for the response.

When I know it's going to be my last ride I dump in about 1/2 can of Seafoam then fill it up and drive it around for a few miles to get the mixture circulated well. If I do happen to get a nice day and go for a ride I again do the Seafoam thing. I've never had a problem doing that.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about the oil with that few miles on it. However, I'd make sure that at least one ride was long enough to heat the engine up good and evaporate any, if any, moisture that might be in the oil. On a short ride condensation can build up in the oil. I make sure I put at least 50 miles on it to evaporate any moisture.

My 2 cents.

Also, like oldwingguy said, If you bought it and haven't changed the oil then I would change it. Mine sat for two years under a tarp in FL when I got it. Not counting tires, battery etc. the first thing I did was change the oil and belt just to make sure I knew what was in it.

Thank you for the great pictures. You have to log in with user name and password to see the pictures.