Braking

I am new to the world of the Silverwing. So Far I love it. I was told that one of the down falls was the fact in very mountainess country, the bike brakes may not hold on long grades. Having a large bike before, if I had to I would use the transmission to help break. Being automatic, would it be insafe. I am talking 8% to 10% for 1/2 to 3/4 a mile. Can any help?

I haven't driven on that steep of a grade for the distances that you're talking about, but even given the CVT setup, the bike has a very good amount (IMHO) of engine braking when you let off the throttle, so I would think that it would handle such a grade without any problems. I'm not saying one could make it down without using the brakes at all, but that one should be able to apply the brakes intermittently to keep them from over heating and not have to worry about the bike running away in between.

Others have mentioned that changes to the variator or clutch can change the engine braking characteristics (more or less depending on changes made), so that would be something to keep in mind if you're considering those upgrades.

Gary M wrote:

I am new to the world of the Silverwing. So Far I love it. I was told that one of the down falls was the fact in very mountainess country, the bike brakes may not hold on long grades.

I have been on long grades with emergency pull offs with no problem.

I have been on step grades with no problem either.

Gary M wrote:

Having a large bike before, if I had to I would use the transmission to help break. Being automatic, would it be insafe. I am talking 8% to 10% for 1/2 to 3/4 a mile. Can any help?

The key before starting down the grade is to make sure are traveling 15 MPH before starting to descend the grade, then the transmission will remain engaged as long as you stay above 15 MPH. If you slow down below 15 MPH during the descent, the transmission will disengage ...blip the throttle for a moment to re-engage the transmission and continue the descent.

If you descend with the transmission engaged, there will not be any problem with the brakes because the majority of the work will be done by the transmission.

honda-silver Wrote
"The key before starting down the grade is to make
sure are traveling 15 MPH before starting to descend the grade, then
the transmission will remain engaged as long as you stay above 15 MPH.
If you slow down below 15 MPH during the descent, the transmission will
disengage ...blip the throttle for a moment to re-engage the
transmission and continue the descent."
I did the Tail of the Dragon this past weekend and this method worked great.I had no problem either in fact I had a lot of fun.

Thank you for this information!

I've been reading through the braking threads and not quite getting what is meant by engine braking.  This one is pretty straight forward.  Good for the visual learner.

I live at highest point from "town."  The ride involves two hills.  One steep at 13% grade for a quarter of a mile.  I' just coast from a slight forward motion from driveway and then a smooth acceleration through the curve.  

The other hill is 8% for 4 miles.  I've done intermittent braking during the last quarter of a mile, while slowly easing off the throttle, into the 30 mph flat section of road into town.

Guess I've been engine braking from the start.  I'm a natural so to speak.  LOL.  

I get how the clutch involvement works quite a bit more.  I think I should do an indepth study of how the clutch works on a Swing.

Thanks all.

Bike has plenty of braking power. Just keep drive line engaged. Engine braking is there.

If you do coast downhill and gather too much speed, you will need to brake the bike as close to 15 mph as you can before blipping the throttle. If you do it at higher speeds the engine braking comes on and it is sudden. If you are not bracing for it, it would make things very interesting !

Jay.

Thanks, I believe I've gots it. Still waiting for part to arrive to have bike back on the road.

Will practice this so I can hear and feel the difference. Definitely watch out for the high speed coasts. I've done interesting a few too many times on my bicycle.

You will know the difference right away. Coasting engine will be at idle and engaged you will feel the slowing from compressing braking from engine. Difference is the throttle no need to slow to 15 or so. Open throttle to engage the drive clutch and then ease off. With the throttle you can match road speed then back off.

Are you a new MC rider? Bicycle experience helps but a MC is different in many ways.
Be safe and take your time learning.

Mech 1 twa thanks for your input.

I get it, especially after watching a great animated video regarding cvt system.  This topic among a few others is helping me to not just ride the bike but pay attention to how it feels and sounds.  The swing is a fun bike to ride!

Yes, I'm new to mc riding, other than riding a dirt bike 40 years ago ; )

I do want to be safe.  Safety is always a number one priority no matter what I'm doing.  If I'm not being safe, then the "other guy" isn't safe either.  

I've been practicing every day (until need for mechanical work) down in an abandoned store parking lot.  Following ride like a pro video but also a lot of work on learning typical road hazards etc... I do this while traveling on our lumpy, cracked back roads, dirt roads, curved roads and the only traffic light intersection in town. It's very busy in the summer.  White mountain tourists, scary! Really have to watch out for them : D   

I'm always open to advice and suggestions.  Thanks to all of ya here!