My experience with Metzeler tires

Hi all,

I've been getting around 6000 miles on most of the tires that I have used on the Silverwing. Original IRCs got 7400 miles (but the original owner put 3800 of them on the tire), I got 6100 on the first Diablo rear and 9800 on the Diablo front, about 5800 miles on the second Diablo rear.

Reading the many posts that proclaimed high wear from the Metzeler Feel Free tires, I put them on last year. I am now well into the wear bars, and would not feel secure doing more than another 100-200 miles on them (I came back from a day trip last year with cord showing on the Diablo rear). Mileage is about 5629 on the rear and 7597 on the front. Nothing impressive (to me at least).

I have a Michelin Power Pure dual compound rear and a Diablo front awaiting installation in the garage. The MP3 riders are swearing by the Power Pure as a high mileage tire. Can't do much worse than what I've used so far.

I just don't know how you guys are getting 10,000+ on these tires? Do you ever twist the throttle past half way? :-) I will say that I tend to ride as hard as I can, most of the time. The J Costa probably did not help, nor the 21g Dr Pulley Sliders.

Just posting my results FYI, in case it helps someone.

PS - The Feel Free tires felt a lot like a Diablo. I would buy either one, provided it was the cheaper of the two. Also, when any of the tires were worn down half-way or more, I would get a nasty wobble in the steering (hands off bars) at 50 mph, in addition the the 35-25 mph coastdown wobble built into the bike by Honda. The IRC, Diablo and Feel Free all behaved the same way in regards to the high speed wobble. The only thing that I found to help was to over inflate the front tire to about 40 psi. Then it rides like a wagon wheel.

Very informative data - thanks. Personally, I haven't considered anything but manufacturer-recommended tires but reviews like these may have me reconsidering it after more research

KB

I used only Bridgestone or IRC on my SilverWing, with ok results, about 10,000 from Bridgestone and replaced with Honda recommend IRC. IRC seemed the best=no slip, nice feel.

Tires funny, I think can even be the batch. My riding career I have used 250-400 tires. Diablo for ex. works great on my Reflex, have turned my new Burgman into pig....funny turn in, hydroplane,slip----but they last, 8,000 on current set and at lease 4,000 miles left.

I do own tire work, Bridgestone=hard sidewalls, hard to get off---have new Michelin waiting---it appears to have soft sidewalls, and max. load rating at 33 psi cold. I like to pay about $100 for set of fresh scooter tires. I generally replace in matched pairs.

buddy19520 wrote:

The only thing that I found to help was to over inflate the front tire to about 40 psi.

What PSI are you running on the rear??

I run at the pressure stated in the manual. IIRC, its 29/32 F/R. I'm only 165 lbs and have only put about 20 miles on with a passenger.

Thanks for the info. I will be shopping for tires soon and couldn't decide between the new Michelins and the Metzelers. I have been using the Michelin Pilot SCs for the last year (at about 12k mi for the front, 600 miles into the 3rd tire for the rear, the second one got a nail in it at around 4000 mi) and have been getting about 5000 miles per rear (I keep the tires at 40psi- I like the way it feels).

Jesse

I have been running the cheap Shinko tires on mine since I got it and they have been lasting around 9000 miles or so on the back and they handle great for 45 bucks. The front Shinko I put on never wore out, but I changed it at 18,000 miles because it was cracking and rotting. Just my two cents here. As fast as this bike uses tires I can't see spending almost 100 bucks on the expensive ones when these handle just as good.

My first experience with Metzeler hasn't been good. Had it installed last Tuesday on the rear today, Monday less than a week and it went flat on me on the turnpike doing 75mph. That was not fun.

That could have been very nasty... How did it loose air?

First we know what caused loss of air---valve? bead not seated properly? tire failure? underinflation? wrong tire? nail? When you let somebody else other than self do tire work you never know what you are in for. Be careful.

Had the cycle shop across the street from my office install the tire. He has installed the tires on my other bike several times. He replaced the valve as he said mine wasnt in good shape. I regularly do my pre ride inspection which is just a visual look over for punctures or foreign objects in the tire. Everything seemed fine. Now I did not check the tire pressure. Didnt think it would be necessary as the tire was installed less than a week ago. Now I guess I will make it a part of my routine. I rode the bike 2 miles to the gas station where I filled up and then jumped on the highway. I rode about 25 miles and then all of a sudden the bike was slowing down and was wobbling. I was like WT*? I got over into the right lane and a guy came up next to me in a truck and said my rear tire. I got onto the shoulder and stopped the bike. Rear tire was flat. It also was hot. I assume that was because of riding it for a mile or so on a flat. It is at the dealership where I bought it for them to take a look at. I am afraid that I will have to buy another tire and pay their freaking $100 an hour labor rate to replace my brand new tire.

Once again, learn to do it yourself----then problems, you can look in mirror and see who did it.

My take, maybe puncture? low air/bead not seated. Even if somebody else does work, check valve with spit test/ bead with dish soap, etc. Bubbles, you have problem. Also put gauge on and measure air pressure. Many bike shops don't know how to put wheel back on scooter, the correct way.

Your are lucky, accidents expensive and they hurt.

Hey John, I hear what your saying will do all of those things in future. But as far as changing out my own tire I do not feel like putting my life and possibly one of my kids lives in my own hands. I can learn to put on the tire by don't want to learn by trial and error. You know what I am saying? I would rather leave something like that up to a guy that has done it hundreds of times.

So it wasn't the Metzeler tyre

It's at dealership now and they will look it over. Guy thinks puncture but i am hoping for valve stem so I don't have to buy a new tire from them for twice the cost that I can find it from elsewhere. Please say some prayers or cross your fingers for me.

I will and they are!

I had a valve split - the fitter didn't replace the valve when he replaced the tyre.

Love my metal right angled valve stems - never need to be replaced so they pay for themselves (at $30 a pair) after 2-3 tire changes. Plus, if you get 'silver' ones - they look cool!

right angle valve stems can be dangerous, unless they can be pinned down as on GoldWing----be careful

The shop actually did put a metal right angle valve stem. Just got the call from the dealer and good news it's the valve stem. Hooray!!! Bad news, new labor and valve stem $80. Boooo

When I had my valve replaced - Saturday lunchtime, middle of nowhere - the chap hadn't got any right-angle valves so put in a stubby one and gave me - yes, gave - a right-angle extension which screws on to the valve.
I keep it in the LH cubby.

john grinsel wrote:

right angle valve stems can be dangerous, unless they can be pinned down as on GoldWing----be careful

The reason that I replaced my 'rubber' valve stems with 'metal' was that I had a split in my 'rubber' valve stem - with loss (not total) of air - which gave me much pause for distrust of 'rubber' valve stems. On the other hand, the metal stems are VERY sturdy and give me no pause or reason to think of failure. Pictures show first the front stem - then the rear one.

I am anxious to know how my valve stems 'can be dangerous' so that I can be fully aware of the potential hazard? Thanks John.

my take on metal right angle valve stems---force/spinning force can cause valve at end to go down,causing strain on the metal/rubber seals of the valve at the rim--maybe no air or leak on the run. Scooter wheels are small, most changes I have seen people do are because they have eaten too much and find the valve hard to get to----good exercise if you are old, I have cheap tire gauge that works and small air chuck that fits right in.

Back to rubber valve cracking=age. Good tire practice is to change rubber stem on each tire change----don't ride a lot and bike old=do it. I ride a lot, go thru many tires and think every 2 years in my case. Probably car tires are changed only every 4 years, so my 2 years valve change on bikes on the way safe side. Good car tire pros change valves on each new tire set.

If Honda wanted right angle stems on the SilverWing it would have come stock, with tie down provision to ease strain on stem. It didn't.

Perhaps it's a later addition, John - mine did.
It's a 2009 European model.

It was only any use for preventing the valve from move whilst underway - I still had to hold it when pumping-up the tyre.

john grinsel wrote:

If Honda wanted right angle stems on the SilverWing it would have come stock, with tie down provision to ease strain on stem. It didn't.

My 2009 rear wheel came with a right angle valve and has some sort of a bracket attached to the wheel which holds the end of the stem. Is that what you mean as a "tie down"?

Yes. Different markets=diffferent models. Mine came new with rubber stem was 2009/2010. I get only new.

My 2011 rear had a long rubber valve with a holding 'bracket'. I thought it was awful and have replaced it with an Ariete metal one which clamps in and is far better IMHO.

Dimond wrote:

john grinsel wrote:

right angle valve stems can be dangerous, unless they can be pinned down as on GoldWing----be careful

The reason that I replaced my 'rubber' valve stems with 'metal' was that I had a split in my 'rubber' valve stem - with loss (not total) of air - which gave me much pause for distrust of 'rubber' valve stems. On the other hand, the metal stems are VERY sturdy and give me no pause or reason to think of failure. Pictures show first the front stem - then the rear one.

I am anxious to know how my valve stems 'can be dangerous' so that I can be fully aware of the potential hazard? Thanks John.

The only way I could perceive your metal valve being dangerous would be if the mass or total weight was more than the stock rubber valve.

More than likely with modern metals, the metal would be lighter than the rubber valve.

If heavier, then more centrifugal force would be applied and may, (emphasise - MAY), give cause to the valve departing the wheel rim when not expected!!!!

Other than that, the valve you show in the picture looks like it is located firmly and wouldn't depart the wheel.

My only other concern would be dissimilar metal corrosion. One alloy in contact with another alloy without any barrier between them. Time will tell - just keep your eye out for small bubbling or corrosive pitting around the metal stem.

yahooie wrote:

The shop actually did put a metal right angle valve stem. Just got the call from the dealer and good news it's the valve stem. Hooray!!! Bad news, new labor and valve stem $80. Boooo

If they replaced the valve stem, why are you paying for a new valve stem and labor? Either the valve stem or the installation was defective ... the dealer should not be recharging you. I would talked to the store manager.

bikerboy wrote:

My 2011 rear had a long rubber valve with a holding 'bracket'. I thought it was awful and have replaced it with an Ariete metal one which clamps in and is far better IMHO.

+1 on that - both my 2003 and 2008 SWings had right angled rubber 'rear' valve stems with a 'restraining bracket' that did a poor job of 'restraining'. I also went with the Ariete metal (after a rubber stem failure) and have no regrets - rather, I feel much safer. The Ariete is cast alloy (guessing aluminum), very light, very robust, very classy, and does not move ANY when you push it or fill it - which is totally unlike the rubber valve stem. If you want/need valve stem 'piece-of-mind' - then suggest you go Ariete at your next tire change. I have heard/read about a lot of 'rubber' valve stem failures - never heard or read about any with the metal valve stems.

honda_silver wrote:

yahooie wrote:

The shop actually did put a metal right angle valve stem. Just got the call from the dealer and good news it's the valve stem. Hooray!!! Bad news, new labor and valve stem $80. Boooo

If they replaced the valve stem, why are you paying for a new valve stem and labor? Either the valve stem or the installation was defective ... the dealer should not be recharging you. I would talked to the store manager.

Initial install from cycle shop across the street from my office. This install or re-install was at the dealer. Broke down close to home which is closer to dealer.