High End LED Lighting

After some discussion here on other topics I decided to email a few people and have received some replies, so I thought I'd put it into one Topic.

There is no question that you can get small $<50 pairs of lights at wallmart, that will fit the DennisB light bar, or other common mounting positions.

But in terms of higher end superbright LEDs which use less power than their incandescent counterparts, there are not that many choices available.

Here are a few. Feel free to post others that you find.
We can make this thread a one-stop for all compatible LED lights.

tarmacburner2 uses the following LEDs with Cree bulbs:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20W-12V-1600LM-CREE-LED-Light-Rally-Ranger-4x4-Dirt-ATV-/250868768779?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a68f1a00b
Each single unit possesses 4 5w Cree LED bulbs totaling 20 watts of draw, and putting out approximately 1600 Lumens at a cost in England of 42GBP ($65USD)
You will need two of these plus the controller ($6) for a total of $136+ shipping.
So for $136 you get 3200 lumens @ 40w draw. 2+inches diameter

Clearwater Lights offers the Krista http://clearwaterlights.com/infopg_krista.html
Each unit possesses 3 12w LEDs for a total of 36 watts of draw and putting out 2400 lumens. They come in pairs with a digital dimming control reducing both power and brightness and all wiring and harnesses and mounts necessary. Cost $649
So for $649 you get pwm dimmable 4800 lumens @ 72w draw 3.75inches diameter

Reviews:
http://www.cycleworld.com/2011/05/31/clearwater-krista-and-glenda-led-lights-product-evaluation/
http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/clearwater-krista-led-lights/


Lastly are the KC Brand:
http://www.kchilites.com/lights/lzr-led/lzr-4-rnd-driving-black
Each unit possesses 6 5w cree bulbs for 30 watts and putting out 2700 lumens.
They come in pairs with control wiring. They are available online for around $365.
http://www.carid.com/universal-off-road-lights/kc-hilites-off-road-lights-1634833.html
So for $365 you get controls and wiring, 5400 lumens @ 60 draw. 4 inches diameter.

All of this assumes the manufacturer's specs are accurate. and does not include shipping costs. Also the quality of the product, housing, etc. Are different.
See the web pages for more information.

Dan

You can also go to www.customdynamics.com and they have LOTS of running lights for the fender and also they have the nightriderz LED
bar for under the rear spoiler that runs continuously and also flashes
when you hit the brakes and then acts llike a brake light. I have LED
running lights mounted on the fender driving lights

Don't forget that there is a limit to how much current that can be fed thro' the perfect connector, most of these more powerful lamps would require a relay connected back to the battery for safety's sake !!

Two things:

Dan, the controller is remote (so can sit on your keyfob). The remote not only switches on / off but also dims the lights. Low intensity is great for daylight running, high intensity burns your retinas!

Bikerboy,
My additional lights are wired so that they use the main beam power source. The scooter's main beam is disconnected and the additional lights connected in it's place so the current draw is actually less. I have two inline fuse holders, one connected to original main beam, the other connected to the additional lights. I use only one fuse so can't overload the system. (Main beam gets reconnected at MOT time)

Cheers,

Deleted 5 posts in this thread as they were deliberately off topic.

Mod Dan

tarmacburner2: Can you post a link/photo of this controller? I've got the very same LEDs which are so bright I've had to point them towards the ground about 2 yards in front to stop blinding people, this controller sounds like an ideal upgrade.

Rarch.
No sooner done than said.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-IR-Remote-LED-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Controller-Switch-DC-12V-8A-Lamp-/400388864434?pt=UK_Light_Fittings&hash=item5d390939b2

Mine tucks in the recess on the front tupperware (just about inline with the forks).

Cheers,

Thanks, that looks interesting. Just a couple more questions

Does it remember the lightlevel?

Does it remember it was switched on if its powered off by disconnecting the 12v supply, if you get what I mean?

I want to set the light level but turn it on/off via a switched supply rather than use the remote.

Hello,

Yes it does remember the light level.

I think I know what you mean. If it was switched on when battery was disconnected it does remember when battery reconnected. In all honesty if you have the remote on the keyfob or in the right hand glove box then there isn't a problem turning it back on.
Having mine powered by the main beam feed means I can switch it on / off using the dip / main switch on the left handlebar. When the unit is switched on it give a very bright flash so a couple of flicks of the switch usually gets peoples' attention. I think somewhere I have a diagram of the wiring I used. If I can find it I'll post it on here.

Check out this thread
https://www.silverwing600.com/t5880-cree-led-running-lights

Cheers,

Thanks again for the info.

I believe it will do what I want which is to have the LEDs dimmed on low beam (daylight running) and on high beam I will bypass the dimmer (relay required) to run them on full power.

Now to sketch out such a circuit

RArch,

Why bypass the dimmer? The Cree LED lights give a far better light on full power than the scooter's main beam. I think you are complicating things when there is no reason to do so. You certainly don't need to have both main beam and LEDs on at the same time.

Cheers,

TB,
Ever see a jeep on the road with 6 overhead lights on, each one of which is sufficient to land a 747 with, and they still have the headlights on?

Why? Because they can. Need has nothing to do with it.

When its time for me to upgrade to more lighting, the more the merrier.
Do I want to blind oncoming traffic? No but when there is none, I wanna light up the zip code!

Dan,

You miss the point I was making.

The lights won't be any brighter if you bypass the dimmer control unit and run them direct from a relay. I'll take some photographs tomorrow night with the scooter in the driveway showing the light emitted from dipped light, dipped light + Crees (low power), scooter's main beam and Crees on full power so that people can see what I'm talking about.

tarmacburner2: I totally agree with you, those LEDs are very bright and along with a HID head lamp when I flash them I want whoever is in front to know about it There is always the remote to switch the spots off

Since fitting the spots using the DennisB light bar I find people take a second look if you catch their eye at all, it seems to work as I've not had a car pull out in me for a good while since. But maybe I've just got better at anticipating them...

That would be great! Put them in your album instead of the thread. It will be easier for people to find.

Dan

Are we all missing the point?

On low beam I will use the dimmer to dim the LEDs for daylight running so that they dont blind people. When I switch to high beam I want to by pass the dimmer and run the LEDs at full power.

RArch,

The LEDs with the dimmer at full power is as bright as running them direct.

Cheers,

I put these (model 30) on my Burgman and am very pleased w/ the output (1500 lumens). No relay needed (.85 amps @ 12 volts):
http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/StoreFront.bok
If you enter "inmate" under the coupon code during checkout, cuts the price down to about $81 for a pair of these (+shipping).

tarmacburner2 wrote:

RArch,

The LEDs with the dimmer at full power is as bright as running them direct.

Cheers,

Yes. I understand that but I cant be fiddling with the remote when I need to raise or lower the light level while driving at night. Hence, the idea of using the existing high/low switch to do that.

RArch,

Why do you need to alter the setting between low and high at night? Using the LEDs on the high setting instead of the scooter's Main Beam will produce more than adequate level of light. Having the dimmer connected to the Dip/main beam switch means that when you want to turn the LEDs off (oncoming traffic etc) then it is just flick the scooter's light switch to Dipped setting (as per normal).
The dimmer doesn't just have two settings (low /high) but there are about six levels of intensity that can be set.
During daylight, dim the LEDs to lowest setting and switch scooter's switch to Main Beam equals LEDs on. Also if you want to give someone a really bright flash just flick the switch off and on as on startup the LEDs flash at full intensity before going to their set levels.

Cheers,

But I want to keep the main beam as it is and add spots which will dim when on low beam. Its just a different set up to yours

I understand what you are saying, those spots are brighter than the main beam making it redundant but it was not working I wonder what a picky Policeman would think of it...

RArch,

Have a look at the number of cars / vans driving around with only one headlight or fog lights dazzling people. Put a blown fuse in the main beam holder and say 'It was working when I first switched in on, I bet either the lamp or the fuse has blown, if it is the fuse then unfortunately I don't carry a spare'.

As well as a direct feed to the LEDs you would have to work out a way to switch off the dimmer unit.

I still think you are making things too complicated but if you can get it to work how you want then you are sorted.

Cheers,