Preventive Maintenance Suggestions on 50K Mileage Wing

I have a 2008ABS Wing - with close to 45,000 miles. Recently I changed my drive belt and noticed that the rear drive clutch pads are starting to show metal (that which anchors the pad) in the pad surface - so planning on changing them. This has started me thinking that there are likely other components that should be changed BEFORE they fail. Most times it is easier to replace something when the bike is taken apart (for some reason) rather than waiting for something to fail. I have purchased oil seals and dust seals used throughout the bike and plan to replace those that I can if they are accessible and easy to get out - but only if I have the bike apart to check them. I have noticed some dirt/dust getting past my seals as evidenced in the discoloration in my bearing grease that is prior to the bearing (packed in an open space) and on the bearing (if it is not a sealed bearing). The dirt is especially pronounced in the area of the transmission on the right side where the axle protrudes where the wheel is mounted - that grease area gets disgustingly dirty. My theory is that replacing oil/dust seals (when I can get to them without a lot of disassembly) is a whole lot easier and less costly than replacing a bearing. When I replace my wheels during a tire change I have been scooping our the grease - repacking the empty annular spaces, putting the wheels back on - which squeezes out excess grease, then taking wheel off and cleaning up that which is pushed out, then doing the final reassembly. When I do this a bit of grease gets slung onto my wheel when I start to ride - but the slung grease stays on the while - it does not get on brake disk or tire - I just clean it off the wheel and all is fine. So far I have not pryed out any seals - but will be doing this next go-around of wheel removal. I am thinking that new seals will be better than old ones - but I don't have any data to support this - but I will have some over the next 10,000 miles (I ride 20,000 miles a year). I am also considering cleaning out open bearings (not sealed) by soaking/spraying/brushing the bearing to remove the grease (in-situ) - and then repacking the bearing with fresh grease. Looking for some feed back on my intended practices noted above?

I am interested in what you may think about changing out seals and cleaning bearing to extend bearing life? Also, any other parts I should be paying better attention to now that my Wing is getting up in mileage? Thanks.

I use 50,000 miles as time to trade and has worked for me----only one scooter, Helix did I keep to full 50,000 miles, the rest left before the 50,000 mark...but recently my Suzuki GS500E went 64,000 and was working fine...but dealer needed it for customer who wanted a yellow one...so got another bike...my Concours traded at 56,000, no trouble---I didn't like it and was spare I got new at good price---all time high mileage, my R51/3 BMW 500, 231,000 km of abuse by me solo and sidecar, cam bearing replaced by BMW at one point after dip stick blew out going wide open in Autobahn--hot oil on your leg gets your attention.

SilverWing=leave it alone, weakest part is drive line---keep in fresh OEM belts, it shoes are worn replace them with OEM parts----my experience with 50,000 mile Helix, groves were worn in pulleys---but last time I visited Eau Claire, WI, it was still in use with happy owner!!

At 10 year old point think about water hoses----brake lines maybe soon, the rubber ones.

other stuff I replace/fix on as needed basis-----just replacing stuff can stir up trouble if not needed

Carry spare belt!

Thanks for the tips John. Wish I could buy every 50,000 miles - maybe I should - I do lot's of my own mainteance - but serious electrical, engine, or transmission problems and I plan to buy another (used) one - and transfer over my mods the next ride.

I don't know if I can buy every 50,000 miles but I do----my wife spends a lot of money and we live in area of country I do not like---so I might as well get my share of my money!
Sometime used can be real deal----but these things are not cheap to fix.

New does for me...provide reliable transport, really fun to work on and put in order so usable....thanks to GIVI and to not break and of course the warranty. When I worked, 2nd car was around for snow days...but expense not worth it anymore....and I am not happy in car.

Think there are SilverWings out there with near 100,000 miles. I feel anyone who buys one of my used machines....and rides the (from the book) 4,000 mile annual scooter mileage----will have nice machine for years to come and fix as needed.

You probably should validate that you've done all the maintenance recommended by the manual - I don't think the pads should wear down to the metal if you're checking pad thickness at recommended intervals.

If the metal is exposed on them, you probably need to replace the clutch bell - specifications are in the service manual, but groves in the bell will cause your new pads to fail a lot sooner.

jmaslak wrote:

You probably should validate that you've done all the maintenance recommended by the manual - I don't think the pads should wear down to the metal if you're checking pad thickness at recommended intervals.

If the metal is exposed on them, you probably need to replace the clutch bell - specifications are in the service manual, but groves in the bell will cause your new pads to fail a lot sooner.

Hello Jmaslak, I clearly have NOT been checking my clutch pads every 4,000 miles (doubt that many of you, like me, are checking the pads every 4000 miles) as noted in Honda manual. I have been checking the pads every drive belt change - which, for me, is every 16 to 20k. Plan to change my clutch pads in a couple of weeks - hoping the drum is not too scored. I am going to look more closely at the maintenance schedule and hopefully check items as recommended in the Honda manual. I will let you know what I find\do on the drum/pads. Thanks for the feedback as this is a wake-up call!

With now just over 300,000 miles on rubber band drive scooters---I do not take apart and check belt/rollers/rear clutch pad=waste of time for me....just change belts at 16-20,000 miles---rollers usually need to be replaced, too---OEM parts work well. Would expect rear clutch pads to go at least 40,000 in the kind of riding I do----Rear clutch gets a peek at belt change time. Stuff breaking is hard to guess on...and most people do not ride their scooter enough to wear them out.

Only got stopped once in these miles on scooters and could not go forward---Helix belt broken, but had spare on board and HRC came to move me to friend garage---Helix great as belt could be changed without taking junk off.

AND before stuff breaks and you are walking...there are noises! 3 of my 4 Helix had rear clutch/bell problems under warranty----my latest Burgman 400 before rear clutch outer bearing and a whole lot of stuff went bad...warranty at 20,000 miles.

Although I continue to ride/buy rubber band drive scooters----the drive system is weakest link!! Carry spare belt goo idea.