rear shocks

Hi all just fitted my hagon rear shocks this evening took  just over a hour and only 3 panels of the bike.had to make 2 access holes in the trunk just big enough for a deep 12mm socket.i will post a pictorial if I can to help others.i plugged the little holes with stoppers and made the holes with a hot solder iron.what a difference the shocks make nicely damped makes the swing sit higher and seems to put more weight over the front wheel.which has quicking up the front steering no more wallowing can take corners like a motorbike.well worth the money or at least for now.

finished job
http://tinypic.com/r/ajh0/8
small bolt comes from top off shock
https://2img.net/h/oi58.tinypic.com/dqj3nn.jpg
where to start hole for deep socket
https://2img.net/h/oi59.tinypic.com/ta6ft0.jpg
12mm deep socket on top bolt of shock
https://2img.net/h/oi61.tinypic.com/2gx39fa.jpg

finished job
http://tinypic.com/r/ajh0/8
small bolt comes from top off shock
https://2img.net/h/oi58.tinypic.com/dqj3nn.jpg
where to start hole for deep socket
https://2img.net/h/oi59.tinypic.com/ta6ft0.jpg
12mm deep socket on top bolt of shock
https://2img.net/h/oi61.tinypic.com/2gx39fa.jpg
put screwdriver through hole so i knew where i was at i could give dimensions
if any one needs them
https://2img.net/h/oi60.tinypic.com/n1us75.jpg
just showing the hole which coud of been neater but done with a hot solder iron
https://2img.net/h/oi60.tinypic.com/14blxer.jpg
just a picture of the shock and only 3 panels removed
https://2img.net/h/oi61.tinypic.com/2rhuyv6.jpg

Nice work! Glad it worked out well for you. Sure is a pain to get to the shock to change. On my old Trail 90's can replace shocks in minutes (sigh). All about the labor I am guessing.

Cheers glenn I was thinking of away to do the job then it struck me that honda could of made access easier by adding a flap of some kind.

Great pictorial! When you've had a chance to give the new shocks a workout, both with and without your passenger, I'd like to hear how they did. Had to look it up, but I'm about 15 stone myself  

john&lesley wrote:

finished job
just a picture of the shock and only 3 panels removed
https://2img.net/h/oi61.tinypic.com/2rhuyv6.jpg

Thanks John for your pictorial on the Hagon shock installation.  The picuture shows the 'adjustment' at the TOP of the shock.  It appears that there is no way to adjust the 'setting' on the Hagon shock (unless it is removed or maybe cut a very large hole in under-seat storage area) due to the very tight clearance for access to the top of the shock.  Correct? I have already cut (with hole drill) a nominal 1inch diameter hole in my trunk area (similiar to what you did) to access the OEM shock which makes removal a snap without the disassembly of any body panels or other SWing components.

I have to thank John as well for the idea about cutting away the inner box to expose the upper bolts.

I had the same concern about accessing the adjusters with the spanner tool, but it can be done.  The right side is a bit harder to get at because of the muffler bracket.  I set my shocks on the middle position before I installed them, seems to be working out so far.

Got any idea how far down from the top that first pilot hole for the 1 inch hole saw is. I'm not very good at eyeballing drill hole locations, and it seem like every time I try something I end up needing to 'stretch out' that hole so that it ends up egg shaped or even swiss cheese.

A measurement would help greatly before I start plunging one inch holes all over the place

Tim

I will take/post a picture - each side of the storage box where you drill the holes is NOT symmetrical. I drilled a tiny pilot hole then held a flashlight up to the hole and viewed if the light landed dead center on the bolt - if not, I moved my tiny pilot hole and tried again. This seemed to get me close enough for all practical purposes. Then I drilled my 1" diameter hole with a hole-saw bit.

Right side access to bolt holding top of rear shock.



Left side access.



The 'white' in the photo is tape on the inside of the luggage compartment to better show the hole in the plastic. The hole ID is just under an inch (0.95in) and, if I remember correctly, not big enough to pass the 'washer' that is under the bolt. You can easily get a socket on this bolt to remove it - but need to fish the washer up inside the case - or you could make a bigger hole - which I did not want to do. I covered my hole opening with duct tape - not classy - but effective and easy. Someday I will search out a proper plastic/rubber hole plug. The top the shock mounting slides laterally over a boss and there is just enough room to move it laterally to get it off without taking any plastic off the SWing.

I ordered a pair ($250 total) of Hagon shocks for my SWing. The San Marcos CA USA distributor advised they have 3 spring rates available: 12 (67#/in), 9 (50#/in), and a heavier one (didn't ask about this one). The 12 is for 165-220 pound riders - since I am 160 pounds I went with the 9. There are three settings. Guessing these will be a big improvement on over my OEM Honda rear shocks - but will have to see. Will report on findings when I get them installed/tested. Hagon makes them outside London in Hainault - so how can I go wrong?

Only by pronouncing 'Hainault' incorrectly.

Hello All,

Just received my Hagon Shocks today. I purchased them from Hagon USA $274.00/pair. I placed the order just before Christmas. They thought I would have them around the middle of January with the Holidays and all. Well as you can see it took much longer. Hagon in England had some issues getting the springs made. They shipped them out as soon as they were assembled. They felt bad and made a special shipment to San Marcos, CA. And Then San Marcos Shipped to me right away. So if anyone has anymore information on installing the Hagon Shocks that would be helpful, we are all ears. I will let you know how they are.

Thanks John and Leslie for your pictorial.

CathY

Kathy,

That is cool you are getting Hagon shocks. I'm curious to ready our review of them when you get them installed. If you want to get the best most comfortable ride you need to 'install them upside down'. This is an old trick only a couple of us know about. lol

JeffR wrote:

Kathy,
.  If you want to get the best most comfortable ride you need to 'install them upside down'.  This is an old trick only a couple of us know about.  lol  

Hi, is this a serious recommendation or an early 1st of April fools joke?

I must admit Ive recently put a set on my scooter and for the life of me can't imagine how (without serious modification) you could install them upside down!

I was kidding !!!!

HORNBLOWER wrote:

I must admit Ive recently put a set on my scooter and for the life of me can't imagine how (without serious modification) you could install them upside down!

Simple, stand on your head. Easier for the mates from down under.