Steering stem top nut octagonal socket

Lathe owner/access desirable or a nearby engineering shop, made from a piece of mild steel thick walled (bushing) tube, outside diameter to suit inside diameter of your stem nut tool x 3" long, bore through 32mm (1.26"), counter bore 34.5mm (1.359") leaving a "land" of the original bore approx 10mm (0.393").
After machining place the "blank" in a bench vice with the "land" facing upwards, colour the end with a marker pen, place the nut  on the blank & scribe around.
With a small pillar file (5/32" chainsaw file is ideal) cut down to the points, now with a small flat file (chainsaw ripper file is ideal) cut the flats, after filing operations test the fit of the nut, do any fettling to achieve a good fit then weld a 1/2" drive socket on the plain end.

Width of flats (0.532")



Width between flats (1.266")



Width between points (1.362")



Nut in socket



Finished article

Thank you again for showing us your amazing craftsmanship. I sure wish I had machine shop access and the skills to fabricate tools, etc the way you can. I'm envious.

Here is a link to the Italian SW forum with plans for a DIY clutch bell installer. Given your resources you might like the challenge of making this, most elusive, tool:
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://www.swci.it/forum/&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dswci%2Bsilverwing%26client%3Dsafari%26hl%3Den%26biw%3D1024%26bih%3D671

And here is a link from the same site for constructing a clutch bell removal tool:
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://www.silverwing.it/&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dswci%2Bsilverwing%2Bitaly%26biw%3D1024%26bih%3D671

Tim

Thank you for your kind words Tim If you can get a shop to machine the blank,filing the flats only take 1/2 hour or so.

Those look like a winter project Fine pitch internal metric screw-cutting on an old imperial lathe sounds like fun

Speaking of things on SWCI, over the weekend I plan to do the front wheel double bearing "conversion" ( http://www.silverwing400.it/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=316&Itemid=83 ), the bearings need changing anyway & I'm hoping that doubling them up will help spread the shock loads & thus bearing wear from the vast amount of pot holes we have on UK roads.

The Bern wrote:

<>Speaking of things on SWCI, over the weekend I plan to do the front wheel double bearing "conversion" ( http://www.silverwing400.it/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=316&Itemid=83 ), the bearings need changing anyway & I'm hoping that doubling them up will help spread the shock loads & thus bearing wear from the vast amount of pot holes we have on UK roads.

I'd considered doing that as well, but  adding an additional bearing to each side eliminates the existing seal. Even with that axle seal and the sealed bearings I have still had two bearings fail due to water (and I suppose road salts) getting past the seals and contaminating the bearings.

It seems to me that, given the reports of the winter road conditions in the UK, that having the bearings exposed will certainly encourage a bearing failure

Maybe the winter road treatments in Italy are more bearing friendly.

Tim

Interesting point Tim, I shall think on a bit more about a way to do an axle wiping seal

I think I got it nailed Tim will get some pic's up after its fitted

I must be a bit thick wheres the access to the steering stem top nut ? My steering is a might to easy will nipping up STN stiffen it a bit.

Remove the handlebar cover(s), remove the handlebar, remove the "handle post" clamp.  You'll need a special socket to fit that nut --it's octagonal.

Check eBay for a "Sunex 2804zd 1/2" drive 32mm 12 point Deep spindle nut socket"

Once you've removed that octagonal lock nut you'll need to tighten the stem bearing nut with a spanner tool.

Tim

Many thanks C_J couldn't find in th SW Shop Manual I would have been searching forever , don,t need to buy socket gotta pal who was an AA man he's got the lot will be able to borrow one . If not there are more reasonably priced sockets on ebay for what expect will be a one off job. Thanks again

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

The Bern wrote:

<>Speaking of things on SWCI, over the weekend I plan to do the front wheel double bearing "conversion" ( http://www.silverwing400.it/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=316&Itemid=83 ), the bearings need changing anyway & I'm hoping that doubling them up will help spread the shock loads & thus bearing wear from the vast amount of pot holes we have on UK roads.

I'd considered doing that as well, but  adding an additional bearing to each side eliminates the existing seal. Even with that axle seal and the sealed bearings I have still had two bearings fail due to water (and I suppose road salts) getting past the seals and contaminating the bearings.



It seems to me that, given the reports of the winter road conditions in the UK, that having the bearings exposed will certainly encourage a bearing failure

Maybe the winter road treatments in Italy are more bearing friendly.

Tim

Have you ever tried using ACF 50 grease?
I was introduces to their products on the honda blackbird site a few years ago. Many owners use the oil that can be put onto polished alloy to stop it corroding with all the salt we have here in the UK.I tried it and found that a small application in Autumn (wipe on, leave overnight, wipe off) would protect my bike all winter! At a trade show I saw their grease which they say it can be used in boat launching trailers going into sea water and still protect the bearings. I bought some and have never had to replace a wheel bearing since on any of my bikes for the past 6 years.
I work with a lot of kids teaching whole classes to play trumpet and other brass instruments, I started using this grease on the tuning slides a few years ago and have had equally as good results.
ACF50 seems to inhibit corrosion on Steel, Brass, Copper, Niickle and alloy. I'm not sure if you can get it over in the states but seeing as it was initially made for PanAm to keep their shiny alloy aeroplanes sparkling I would expect you can.
It is quite expensive but a little goes a long way!

ACF 50 Grease isn't all that expensive but the shipping charge from the UK is about the same as the product. Either the small tube or the 16 oz can, same shipping charge.

Is the product so good that I'm going to toss away my lithium grease?

Tim

If you look on your US eBay site, you'll find there's lot's of UK suppliers of ACF-50 grease offering free postage/shipping.

Try it and see Tim its all i use now except for Red Silicon grease on the hydraulics. The liquid is brilliant too and in my opinion much better than WD40!!!!!