Front Wheel Brake Pad Replacement Instructions

My SWing has 35,036 miles and I was starting to hear some front brake sound, so I ordered the front/rear brake pads and spare pins (just in case) from http://www.partspitstop.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/7/Honda.aspx which I found was the cheapest price.

I just replaced my front brakes, I have always done my own brakes for all my vehicles, but this was the easiest brake change yet ... one allen hex bolt!

Tools:
- 5 MM allen hex wrench
- Torque Wrench (optional)
- Toothbrush
- Long screwdriver or flat metal bar to recess pistons

Here is the the instructions that I followed

Honda Instructions: To provide clearance for new pads, push the caliper pistons all the in by pushing the caliper body inward.

I did not push the caliper pistons in because I wanted to clean with a brush the piston sidewalls to remove the excess brake dust before recessing the pistons, which I believe would help keep the caliper pistons working better/smoother in the future.

Honda Instructions: Remove the pad pin plug and loosen the pad pin.

I had no problem removing the pad pin plug or loosening the pad pin, even though I ride in the rain. Some people have reported that the pad pin rusted and was difficult or impossible to remove ... I wonder if that might be due to winter salt on the roads.

Honda Instructions: Remove the pad pin and the brake pads. Make sure that the pad spring is installed in position. Install new pads so that the (sic) their ends rest properly on the pad retainer on the bracket. Install the pad pin by pushing the pads against the pad spring, aligning the pad pin holes in the pads and caliper.

When you remove the pad pin, the front brake pads literally fell down without any effort. Once the pads were removed, I examined the front brake pads and it definitely was time to replace them. I cleaned each calper piston on all sides with a toothbrush starting the lower one ... after cleaning the piston I held the outside caliper and very lightly pushed the piston flush with a screwdriver. After you recessed the lower piston the next piston was easier to access and clean. There are three separate pistons to clean and recess flush.

From the right side of the front wheel, if you shine a light on the brake calipers you can see the "U" channel ... carefully check to see the metal spring is still in place.

From the left side of the front wheel, if you shine a light from the top of brake calipers you can see the top of the "U" channel ... carefully check to see the metal spring is still in place.

I cleaned the pad pin with automotive hand cleaner and a small 3M green pad.

I slid the brake pads into place and pushed the pad pin into place, you could feel the spring give a little when you push the pads up to fit the pad pin in. I turned the pad pin a couple of turns to hold in place while I inspected the top of the brake pads.

From the right side of the front wheel, if you shine a light on the brake calipers you can see the "U" channel ... carefully check that the top of the right brake pad is fitting squarely in the "U" channel.

From the left side of the front wheel, if you shine a light from the top of brake calipers you can see the top of the "U" channel ... carefully check that the top of the left brake pad is fitting squarely in the "U" channel.

Honda Instructions: Tighten the pad pin to the specified torque. Torque: 18 Nm (1.8 kgf-m, 13 lbf-ft)

Tighted to 18 Nm.

Honda Instructions: Install the pad pin plug

I cleaned the pad pin plug with the toothbrush to help keep the pad pin plug securely seated.

If you are riding in winter salted road you might want to add some hot glue (silicone which is easily removable later)
- over the hex allen screw
- on the caliper base where the allen screw passes through metal caliper holes (not the brake pad holes) to prevent moisture and salts from damaging the screw

Before I test drove the SWing, when you pulled the brake levers there was no resistance so I alternately pumped the left and right brake levers until the brake resistance returned ... then I carefully took a test drive with increasing test braking.

Thanks a lot Bill. I'm gonna refer to these instructions when it comes time to change my front pads.
Ride safe.

Bump...

I really like the extra cleaning procedure and the hot glue to protect from road grime. ... Nice

With this requiring only one hex bolt and a torque wrench, this is terribly easy. I haven't worked seriously on cars or planes for many years so you can imagine why I am reluctant to get my hands greasy...

I have had some very bad luck with my local shop recently related to ordering parts and actually getting what I ordered in a timely fashion. I'd rather let them turn wrenches for me but not if they keep selling my parts to someone else while I'm waiting for them.

Thanks Bill

Almost forgot - this makes me wish I had kept my Snap-On torque wrench from when I was working on planes... Oh well.