Givi 214 DT windscreen

Getting ready to order the Givi 214DT windscreen. Do I need the windshield fit kit to install it?

Thanks.

I have had three Givi 214 windscreens both one piece and adjustable. Easy to install but you should make sure you order the small metal re-enforcment brackets for it. You do have to drill a small hole to put an anchor bolt in but that is no big thing.

One piece of advice that has been mentioned before and is super important. Make sure you check the tightness of the screws on the adjustable upper part. I lost one a few years back doing 65 mph and it hit me right my face. Thank God I had my helmet on.
I located a new top part and made sure everything was super tight. Even after about 9 months and very little riding,( never removed it for cleaning) IT HAPPENED AGAIN! hitting me right in the face shield surrounded by traffic.

Guardian380 wrote:

Getting ready to order the Givi 214DT windscreen.  Do I need the windshield fit kit to install it?

Thanks.

I really don't know what you mean, the Givi 214 DT is a one piece fixed height screen, and it'll have all the bits you need in the box to install it. The same DT bits are included in the box when you buy the Givi AF 214 Airflow screen, and there's a installation pictorial, and a never ending succession of topics and posts about Givi screens.

Secret for Givi Adjustable Windshield----to keep top part from flying off=keep clamping part lubed with WD40 and make sure nut on clamp properly adjusted-----I have had at least three of the shields, and especially on SilverWing they are about the only way to obtain lookover/safe/comfortable ride in all conditions....and they do provide pretty good relief from buffeting.

Check clamp from time to time.

I had the Givi 214DT. It is a solid fixed screen, I found it too high and could not look over the top. As Meldrew says it is the Givi  Airflow that has the adjustable top screen, I would strongly advise that you buy the Givi  Airflow.

johnd wrote:

One piece of advice that has been mentioned before and is super important. Make sure you check the tightness of the screws on the adjustable upper part. I lost one a few years back doing 65 mph and it hit me right my face. Thank God I had my helmet on.
I located a new top part and made sure everything was super tight. Even after about 9 months and very little riding,( never removed it for cleaning) IT HAPPENED AGAIN! hitting me right in the face shield surrounded by traffic.

LOL this is why I measured and ordered a Cee Bailey in the proper height for me! No adjustment necessary, no fly-off and half the price of the AF214...

GHM-PM wrote:

johnd wrote:

One piece of advice that has been mentioned before and is super important. Make sure you check the tightness of the screws on the adjustable upper part. I lost one a few years back doing 65 mph and it hit me right my face. Thank God I had my helmet on.
I located a new top part and made sure everything was super tight. Even after about 9 months and very little riding,( never removed it for cleaning) IT HAPPENED AGAIN! hitting me right in the face shield surrounded by traffic.

LOL this is why I measured and ordered a Cee Bailey in the proper height for me! No adjustment necessary, no fly-off and half the price of the AF214...      

Yea, but sure is nice to be able to lower the screen later in the morning when the sun gets higher in the sky.  Especially in the Southwest.

I've installed and ridden with both the adjustable and the Airflow windshields. I prefer the adjustable hands down over the fixed screen. It's really nice to be able to adjust the height for riding conditions. By all means whichever GIVI you get be sure to get the installation kit. Those brackets and the two added mounting points help the larger windshield resist the rearward wind loading better than the rubber mounts alone used by the OEM screen. The brackets provide a solid mounting point directly to the frame on each side of the bike. Those two bolts provide the main support against the wind.

Easyrider wrote:

GHM-PM wrote:

johnd wrote:

One piece of advice that has been mentioned before and is super important. Make sure you check the tightness of the screws on the adjustable upper part. I lost one a few years back doing 65 mph and it hit me right my face. Thank God I had my helmet on.
I located a new top part and made sure everything was super tight. Even after about 9 months and very little riding,( never removed it for cleaning) IT HAPPENED AGAIN! hitting me right in the face shield surrounded by traffic.

LOL this is why I measured and ordered a Cee Bailey in the proper height for me! No adjustment necessary, no fly-off and half the price of the AF214...      

Yea, but sure is nice to be able to lower the screen later in the morning when the sun gets higher in the sky.  Especially in the Southwest.

I've lost a couple of Airflow top sections and one or two others have lost them too, it's annoying and potentially dangerous. But like dodgy 650 Burgman transmission problems it's not inevitable it'll happen to you.

I've also read a post on here about buying an Airflow to ride in hot weather with the adjustable top section removed altogether. It may be cooler, but the wind noise is increased to a such a level that it's uncomfortable through custom made ear plugs.

I haven't moved my Airflow top screen height in years, it's unnecessary. I occasionally adjust the angle of the Wunderlich spoiler fixed on top of it instead.

Then of course you could buy the non adjustable Givi 214 DT, you may be lucky and tall enough that it works for you straight out of the box.

Alternatively if it's too tall, you can kid yourself and fellow riders that you like looking through it. Which suggests if you do, you've never experienced peering through it in prolonged and heavy rain, or at night time with the dazzle of oncoming headlights.

Luckily there's YouTube clips and forums posts of how to cut of the surplus 3" or 4". Opting for DIY may involve buying various electric and hand tools, clamps, and polishing papers to do the job. You'll either be satisfied with your efforts, again you can kid yourself and fellow riders that you are, even if you've bodged it. Or worse case scenario, you'll have damaged or broken a brand new Givi screen.

That's why the vast majority of Silver Wing owners on here chose the Airflow.

I've just finished doing an adjustment of my 214DT height, if you're used to working with Plexiglass it's not a problem.
If you use the correct blade on an electric jigsaw, properly tape and cut from both sides it will be straight and smooth.
Use a sanding block with wet-or-dry paper with 100 first to shape the edges and corners, then use 220-400-600-800-1000 grit to bring to a near polish
(it will match to factory edge finish)

For a lot of people it's not about having an adjustable windshield, it's about having the right height. At least for me it is, although I might want an adjustable spoiler too.

I switched back to the OEM shield for the summer and put the Givi back on a couple weeks ago and immediately decided to trim it to my exact height.

Since doing this I've been riding in all conditions (fog, rain, sun, day and night)
I could not ask for a better screen.

Sidewinder Pilot wrote:

I've just finished doing an adjustment of my 214DT height, if you're used to working with Plexiglass it's not a problem. ................................
Since doing this I've been riding in all conditions (fog, rain, sun, day and night)
I could not ask for a better screen.  

Yes, I found the 214DT to be the perfect screen for me for all conditions!

I like the adjustable, but I twice I have had it come off while riding. So now, I am very careful to make sure that both sides have a good bite on the rail and that the cam mechanism is pushed down.

I am fortunate that both times it came off, it didn't get damaged by some car running over the shield.

Sidewinder Pilot wrote:

I've just finished doing an adjustment of my 214DT height, if you're used to working with Plexiglass it's not a problem.
If you use the correct blade on an electric jigsaw, properly tape and cut from both sides it will be straight and smooth.
Use a sanding block with wet-or-dry paper with 100 first to shape the edges and corners, then use 220-400-600-800-1000 grit to bring to a near polish
(it will match to factory edge finish)

For a lot of people it's not about having an adjustable windshield, it's about having the right height. At least for me it is, although I might want an adjustable spoiler too.

I switched back to the OEM shield for the summer and put the Givi back on a couple weeks ago and immediately decided to trim it to my exact height.

Since doing this I've been riding in all conditions (fog, rain, sun, day and night)
I could not ask for a better screen.  

I have cut shields on other motorcycles. It is pretty easy to do. As mentioned, masking off the shield and using a jig saw and then a sanding block to round the edges makes for a professional looking job. Don't use a foam sanding block..... that will follow the contours of your cut. You want a hard sanding block with sand paper to smooth out any "dips."

As mentioned, looking through a windshield is not pleasant and those that do it are kidding themselves that they would prefer to look through it. A properly adjusted shield will come up just below your nose in your normal riding posture. This eliminates the wind buffeting from over the top of the shield.

I have not tried riding with the top of the Givi adjustable off. I might try that and see what I think about it.

I've trimmed a couple windshields I've had on motorcycles. I like to be able to see the ground over the top edge of the windshield about sixty feet ahead when sitting on the bike in normal riding position. The easy way to do that is to have an aiming point on the ground at that distance, a rock, stick or whatever then sit on the bike and mark the point on the windshield where you see the target. Then mark your cutting line at that height. I use a compass or divider to scribe the line on the windshield after it's been covered with masking tape. The idea is to scribe a line parallel to the priginal top line so the shape doesn't change.
Use light pressure with the saw and a fairly low speed. If you press the cut too hard it's possible for the kerf to melt and stick to blade and that can cause a crack. Don't allow the saber saw to vibrate the windshield while cutting and be sure to support or tape the part already cut as you go. That will prevent the piece from breaking off and perhaps spoiling the windshield.
Wet/dry sandpaper used wet does a good job of sanding the cut smooth. I start out with a coarse file used along the cut, not across, it to get any irregularities flattened out the finish up with a couple different grits of sandpaper. Don't forget to radius the sharp edges slightly on the front and back of the cut, that prevents stress riser fine cracks from growing.
It's really easy regardless how this long windy post seems.

Why bother, using the rubbish OE screen to gauge if you need more height or less height, more width and hand cover for weather protection, a screen tint, an adjustable spoiler, etc. Just search online for something suitable, prefeferably European. There are suitable alternatives out there.

exavid wrote:

I've trimmed a couple windshields I've had on motorcycles. I like to be able to see the ground over the top edge of the windshield about sixty feet ahead when sitting on the bike in normal riding position. The easy way to do that is to have an aiming point on the ground at that distance, a rock, stick or whatever then sit on the bike and mark the point on the windshield where you see the target. Then mark your cutting line at that height. I use a compass or divider to scribe the line on the windshield after it's been covered with masking tape. The idea is to scribe a line parallel to the priginal top line so the shape doesn't change.
Use light pressure with the saw and a fairly low speed. If you press the cut too hard it's possible for the kerf to melt and stick to blade and that can cause a crack. Don't allow the saber saw to vibrate the windshield while cutting and be sure to support or tape the part already cut as you go. That will prevent the piece from breaking off and perhaps spoiling the windshield.
Wet/dry sandpaper used wet does a good job of sanding the cut smooth. I start out with a coarse file used along the cut, not across, it to get any irregularities flattened out the finish up with a couple different grits of sandpaper. Don't forget to radius the sharp edges slightly on the front and back of the cut, that prevents stress riser fine cracks from growing.
It's really easy regardless how this long windy post seems.

This is a great description of how it is done.  

I just pick out something down the road that I would like to be able to see "over the shield" and mark that spot on the shield.    The curve you are cutting off doesn't matter but it can be a guide with a string and a crayon.