Underseat panel removal

Good morning. Some advice please. I am trying to remove the underseat panel to more easily get at the idle adjustment screw. The workshop manual indicates four screws to be removed (2 side panel screws and 2 larger screws) which I have done but the panel refuses to budge.

Am I missing something?

I think it's just the four cross head screws - two big ones at the back and two smaller ones towards the sides. I think you just have to sort of thump it forwards to disengage the clips. You then have to pull the two fuse holders upwards to unclip them. One of them can be pushed out of the way sideways as there is a cut out in the panel. I think the other one has to be wiggled down through it's hole.
I've removed that panel a couple of times and it's a bit of a faff but I can't remember much about it (other than the fuse holders) so it can't have been too much of a pain. It's a lot easier if you remove the seat.

As with all panels if you find you are fighting the urge to bash everything with a big hammer go and make yourself a cuppa and then look at it again.

If you just want to get at the idle screw though it's easier if you just unclip the top of the seat strut so you can lift the seat right up out of the way then shine a light down into the hole - just make sure you turn the right screw otherwise you will muck up the throttle body synchronisation.

If you use a cross head screwdriver you should be ok as the synchronisation screws are slotted type so the cross head won't be able to turn them (they are on mine anyway). The idle screw can be turned with both types of screwdriver. It often has a rubber pipe running above it which you can see through the hole. Shove this to one side and you should see the screw underneath it.
Of course when you have your finger in the access hole to push the pipe to one side there's not much hole left to see in but you'll get there. Try pushing the pipe out of the way with a thin screwdriver whilst looking down into the hole and you should see the screw.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Cheers Cookie, I unclipped the top of the seat strut but still couldn't quite see down the hole. I then tried using a dentists mirror to see the screw but by then my fingers had gone numb. It's not a critical issue, just a niggle so I'll wait for a slightly warmer day.

Managed to get out for a run round the Hanningfields for an hour or so - bit nippy but not too bad. Got to say the Swing is a crackin little bike!

Yes, they're a great bike. I like those roads around Hanningfield. Sometimes ride around there myself.
Good luck with the idle adjustment - if you want a hand send me a PM - I assume you're fairly local.

Aye, between Baddow and Danbury. I'll drop you a PM if I get stuck. Cheers

Nice area. Good luck with the idle, you'll be fine I'm sure.

Crustycrutch,

There are a couple of pictorials done on the idle adjustment. Just enter idle adjustment in the search box and you should see them. I've found there is often information in these old posts that relate to the issues I have.

I think the idle goes up in cold weather (I know mine does) until the bike warms up.


Hope this helps.

Update. I finally found the time and temperature to adjust the idle. I had also been having issues with warm starting in the meantime. Bear in mind that this is a brand new Swing with just 350 miles on it.

Anyway I took the seat off then the underseat panel as per previous posts. Found it quite stiff to get out but with much wiggling it finally came out. I attached my Carbtune to the take off points and found things really out of whack so I brought everything back to spec then adjusted the idle to 1300rpm. Reassembled everything and took a 20 mile run round the countryside with several stops and starts.

Touch wood it seems much better and no problems with warm starts. Mildly irritated that this needed doing on a new bike but hey ho, c'est la vie!

Nice result Crustycrutch!
It sounds like the sort of thing the dealer should have picked up on the Pre Delivery Inspection and adjusted. It does make you wonder what they do sometimes.
Still, never mind, it sounds like you've sorted it now and that it's running better. Also you'll know how to do the balance and the idle speed when you come to doing services (assuming you do them yourself).
Those Carbtunes are pretty good eh? That's what I did mine with although they weren't out by much after 16,000 miles but I fiddled a bit anyway - if only to justify taking that panel off (which, incidentally, is a bit easier in the summertime as the plastic is a bit more supple).
Now get out and ride...

carbtune? i thought the S wing was injected, doesn't the ECU take care of that?

Hi Art, Carbtune is the trade name of a manometer. For info search for Morgan Carbtune on the interweb :-)

I'm familiar with thew Carbtune, have used it a few times myself (one reason I don't like multi carb motorcycles)
I'm just wondering why on a computer controlled fuel injected engine such a tool is necessary, as the ECU should really handle all of that

Hi Art,
You still have to balance the butterflies in the throttle bodies. The ecu doesn't do that. Hence a manometer of some sort is required.
At least there's only two in the Silverwing.

Oh, I guess Honda uses what amounts to 2 throttle body injectors, rather than multi point injection with a single throttle body, how primitive
Oh well,whatcha gonna do?