Engine oil level

I'm sure this must have been asked before but......

When checking the oil level should the dipstick be screwed down or not?

The owners manual doesn't QUITE say which, although it sort of implies that it should be checked screwed down.

Thanks guys.

Just put the dipstick in without screwing it down.

From my owners manual, page 39/3 - "reinsert oil filler cap/dipstick without screwing it in"
Hope this helps.

Graham

The tiny technical bit of my mind agrees.
Definitely check it with the dipstick just resting on the threads - NOT screwed in.
If you've set the level to the mark with the stick screwed in then you have been running with a low level so it's pretty important...

I'm really surprised that you're asking this mate, it's remove the oil filler cap/dipstick and wipe the oil from the dipstick with a clean cloth.

Insert the dipstick into the filler hole without screwing it in.

If the oil level is below or near the lower level line on the dipstick, add the recommended engine oil until the oil level is up to the upper level line.

on the subject of checking oil levels why the rigmarol warming the engine then waiting for the oil to drain back before checking? I appreciate the oil will expand slightly when warm but why not just check it cold and adjust the level mark accordingly?

For giggles I just checked mine it's been parked for days, not screwed in and sitting level not on the center stand, spot on the full mark, it's the same way I checked my G'Wing. FWIW I never had a Honda engine that used oil between changes.

oldwingguy wrote:

<> FWIW I never had a Honda engine that used oil between changes.

That would depend on how long one goes between oil change intervals.

If using dino oil and changing at 4000 miles, as some folks do, I doubt that any oil use would be noticed.

OTOH I'm a "frugal" s.o.b and squeeze every last bit of life out of the Mobil 1 full synthetic I use by changing the oil at 8000 - 10000 mile intervals. Mind you, not that I'm suggesting that everyone follow the same schedule, but full synthetic doesn't break down as dino oil does.

That said if you do run low, real low, on oil and run the bike for an extended high speed run it may end up costing you a stator when there is insufficient oil in the sump to cool the stator coils after the scoot is parked. DAMHIK

Tim

Oil lasts longer in a scooter than a motorcycle primarily because there's no gearbox to sharing the oil. Pressure caused by meshing gear teeth do a lot to reduce the viscosity of the oil. The gears in our CVT equipped engines are not running under shock loads that transmission gears have to put up with. A welcome thing for engine wear in the scooter engine is that there's no metal dust or chips in the oil that transmissions cause. Some bikes such as BMWs use dry clutches between the gearbox and engine which helps extend engine life.

If your weather is warm and low humidity engine oil will last a long time, if you live on the coast with marine weather it should be changed more often to get rid of the moisture and combustion byproducts that arise.

Also as a rule if you dipstick has threads you don't thread it in when measuring oil. If the dipstick as an o-ring and isn't threaded you push it all the way back in when measuring the oil level.

I was on the 5,000 mile+plan or one year which ever came first. One trip was 7,039 miles, never used a drop and that was fewer miles than the book recommended. Our 2015 CRV " wrench " for oil ect. doesn't come on until well after 8,000 miles, when it gets to the 10 / 15 % oil life left I get it changed, no idea how many miles until the 5% mark and I probably never will.

Winger61 wrote:

Just put the dipstick in without screwing it down.

From my owners manual, page 39/3 - "reinsert oil filler cap/dipstick without screwing it in"
Hope this helps.

Graham

Many thanks to all for your advice guys. I was obviously reading the wrong page of the manual Graham! page 103 is a bit vague on the matter whereas 39 makes it crystal clear.

Thanks again.

Riggers

oldwingguy wrote:

For giggles I just checked mine it's been parked for days, not screwed in and sitting level not on the center stand, spot on the full mark, it's the same way I checked my G'Wing. FWIW I never had a Honda engine that used oil between changes.

Sitting Level but not on center stand? Please explain.

Thanks

I think he was referring to the fact that on the center stand the bike is sitting somewhat nose down. Actually I believe the dipstick is calibrated for the bike on the center stand. Either way it won't make much difference to the oil level.

Thank you. I agree with you last two sentences'

Tom G

I've done it both ways makes no difference. I wish tire pressures were as EZ.

Please go to "Tire pumps, pressures & gauges" thread to continue discussion.

Tim

steve_h80 wrote:

on the subject of checking oil levels why the rigmarol warming the engine then waiting for the oil to drain back before checking? I appreciate the oil will expand slightly when warm but why not just check it cold and adjust the level mark accordingly?

Possibly it is to make sure the oil filter is full.

In the manual they have one instruction to check oil level. I has to cover all situations.

The oil and filter may have just been changed. Thus the filter is empty and should be full before level check.

Also if you have not used you bike in a while the oil filter could have drained back or partially drained back.
They are not supposed drain back. But that is a perfect world.

So in short the method in the manual is to ensure the filter is full before checking.

I think the same goes for most bikes and cars. The reason they like you to warm the engine up is to fill up the oil filter, and then check the level shortly after switching the engine off. After the engine is switched off the oil from the filter starts to drain into the sump, hence altering the level on the dipstick.

I always do this because I like to think that the level subscribed by Honda would reflect the the oil filter being full, i.e. running.

Just a thought...

Reg wrote:

steve_h80 wrote:

on the subject of checking oil levels why the rigmarol warming the engine then waiting for the oil to drain back before checking? I appreciate the oil will expand slightly when warm but why not just check it cold and adjust the level mark accordingly?

Possibly it is to make sure the oil filter is full.

In the manual they have one instruction to check oil level. I has to cover all situations.

The oil and filter may have just been changed. Thus the filter is empty and should be full before level check.

Also if you have not used you bike in a while the oil filter could have drained back or partially drained back.
They are not supposed drain back. But that is a perfect world.

So in short the method in the manual is to ensure the filter is full before checking.

Good point, Reg and Loosebearing.

I check mine as I ride it, with both wheels on the ground. I see this thing about oil filters having a check valve ? to keep it from draining back to the pan, wondering what the fuss is about as the filter placement is horizontal and never really empties, noted tonight mine didn't loose oil until I completely removed it, nor did my G'Wing. My 2017 Subaru has the filter topside of the engine base down and never has oil in it when I remove it. I will admit to pre soaking a filter with fresh oil when installing new but never noticed any difference between doing it that way or just putting it on dry, I can't imagine a for profit shop taking the time to pre soak a filter.