Need more info from an old post

I was reading with great interest about something that DennisB had posted about someone else's post. It had to do with using synthetic oil in an 08 Swing. DennisB stated that the Swing burned the synthetic oil which fouled the plugs and the exhaust gas sensor. I'm paraphrasing here so please don't call me out on what was written. Can anyone shed any light on this? Is anyone else's using synthetic oil with no problems? The original post never went into the above post by DennisB. I understand he is an authority on this site.

A friend of mine uses nothing but synthetic oil in his 2006 Silverwing. He has never mentioned anything of problems this brought on. I must remember to ask him about this the next time I see him.

Mike

Please note Mike from NS this was reported on an 08 Silverwing. I'm pretty sure that was the first year of the exhaust gas sensor. I have since read a lot of riders are using synthetic oil. Hope to hear more from DennisB the rider that posted that problem.

I used synthetic with my 07 SWing and had no problem whatsoever. It could have been something else that caused this as well. Many people here use synthetic.

I have used full synthetic, dino and synthetic blends in my SWing. No problems with any of them. Just changed my SWing oil with Rotella T5 synthetic blend, my Goldwing loves this stuff (cover your eyes Meldrew) so decided to try same in both Wings.

I have been using full synthetic oil since my first oil change .75 k kl with same iridium plugs .Plugs look's new,looses one cup of oil (6 0z)lost at every 12 k kl oil change ,and now at 100 k kl +,and no loss of oil, no better ,no worst. Change oil seal drive clutch and drive face plate at 30 k .  My friend has his 650 Burgman in the dealers shop since the last week of June with drive belt failure only to brake down again with bearing failure.

Hello, I would like to say that I'm no authority on this sight or any other. And I would like to say...If it works good...Don't mess with it....

I started using a Wal-Mart synthetic brand oil in my SWing after brake in. This oil fouled my mixture sensor in the exhaust pipe and caused my mixture electronics to push more gas to be pumped into the combustion chamber. Because of the mixture sensor being mess-up the plugs got more fouled. I changed the plugs, cleaned the mixture sensor tip, and changed the filter and oil back to the type of oil that came in the scooter when it was new. For the short amount of time that I owned this scooter, it worked fine after changing back to dino oil.

AGAIN...If it's not broke...Please, don't try to fix it...Have a nice day.

P.S. Wal-Mart synthetic brand oil was the only synthetic oil I could afford at the time and lost the 08 scooter in bankruptcy a short time later.

Walmart motor oil, Quaker State supplied it last I looked. I never use the blended as there is no industry standard as to percentage of dino to synthetic. Another catch if you want to call it that it depends whether it's true synthetic or a dino derived synthetic.

oldwingguy wrote:

Walmart motor oil, Quaker State supplied it last I looked.  I never use the blended as there is no industry standard as to percentage of dino to synthetic.  Another catch if you want to call it that it depends whether it's true synthetic or a dino derived synthetic.  

So which is true synthetic and which is dino-derived, and which would have contributed to an O2 sensor failure?

Jeez, I never had these kind of problems when ran 2 cans of STP in my '53 Plymouth.

Tim

YES I COPIED AND PASTED THIS. -----------------------------------------------------------------

There are only two Real Synthetic Oils in America
So you think that all these "Synthetic" oils available for sale in the various stores around the US are true PAO based Motor Oils. Think again. PAO or Polyalphaolefin is the main lab produced synthetic base for Group IV stock Synthetic Oils. Base I, II & III are all dino oils. I'm being really concise on this as it can be researched elsewhere, I'm just posting it to get the point out to the masses.

Since a 1997 court case brought on by Mobil against Castrol (in the US), and subsequently won by Castrol granted anyone to produce their non-PAO Group III base oil and sell it as a full synthetic, again, ONLY in the United States because anything can be bought or decided by the wrong people (courts, not scientists) in the US. So, since 1997 there has really only been one true synthetic oil available for sale in the United States, Mobil 1.

Well, I'm letting everyone in on a little secret. Castrol DOES sell a true synthetic in the US, it just doesn't make it here (which is fine by me). Autozone sells Castrol 0w30 "European Formula" Syntec. Look for the "Made in Germany" on the back of the bottle. See, in Europe the BS that is allowed to fly in the US isn't worth squat before a real set of government standards groups as in Europe. This is one of those few. Castrol SLX (now Castrol Edge). Note again, there are no other versions of Castrol or any other brand you can buy in a store on any given day other than Mobil 1 which are true synthetics.

I've always thought there's a lot of tosh and brand snobbery about oils. As long as you buy the correct viscosity, JASO, API, SG etc recommended by Honda, doe it really matter if it's fully synthetic, semi-synthetic, budget or big name, as long as you change oil and the oil filter regularly. In between changes,  check the oil level, and top it up as necessary.

The only minus for me is having that to contend with that delicate alloy tappet cover instead a steel drain plug. Then I'd be able to change it for one with a magnetic drain plug.

Meldrew wrote:

I've always thought there's a lot of tosh talked about oils on biker forums, as long as you buy the correct viscosity, JASO, API, SG etc recommended by Honda, doe it really matter if it's fully synthetic, semi-synthetic, budget or big name, as long as you change oil and the oil filter regularly. In between changes,  check the oil level, and top it up as necessary.

The only minus for me is having that to contend with that delicate alloy tappet cover instead a steel drain plug. Then I'd be able to change it for one with a magnetic drain plug.

I agree with Meldrew on this one. The SWing is not a race machine so any good oil and filter will work for us but of course we all have our favorites! I had heard the story about Mobil 1 being the only true synthetic, but hesitated to mention it as the rabid Amsoil dealers tend to go a bit over-the-top. Not sure where Amsoil fits in all of this but since I do not use it...

Personally I don't think synthetic oil is worth the price. For starters the engines in most Hondas including the Silverwing aren't high performance types. They are fairly low compression slow turning types built for reliability rather than high power. The SW like a lot of larger Hondas is water cooled and has a dry clutch and an external transmission. Those reasons ae why you don't need motorcycle oils. Lower temperature operation, no transmission beating down viscostity, no wet clutch preventing reduced friction oils.
My preference is dino oil for price and perfectly adequate performance. To make any sense of using synthetic oil you need to extend oil change intervals. I prefer to change more often depending on season and weather with the cheaper stuff.

exdavid that's true and what some folks believe as I've heard is it lasts longer, however reading the bottle instructions one finds change oil per mfg instructions, and from previous readings of persons habits many change WAY earlier then recommended. That said there are some engines that state specifically use synthetic only but they are few in numbers.

hi I think semi synthetic oil is quit all right in silver wing as it has a dry clutch & no gears (as gears which run the the engine oil has a shearing affect on the oil & not just as a lubricant) I have read lots of other threads with this same theory .... sorry for butting in ...and I know this is not answering your query