Crack in lower valence panel

Took the bike to work yesterday.  Looking down, thought there was some Bird $#!+ but closer inspection showed that there was a crack with a small piece missing from the red plastic.          I don't recall hitting anything and the bike hasn't been dropped, so I have no idea how this happened.





Could have been a rock, but I think I would have felt that and I dont ride on unpaved roads.  Maybe the bike flexed and that caused it to crack?

So at this point I guess I'll have to remove the part and then try and fix it.  I can probably stiffen it up with some aluminum and epoxy on the back side and then fill in the front including the missing bit.  I priced out color matched paints from a couple of places and they are nuts, over a hundred for a spray can set with primer, color and clearcoat.  Since it's on the bottom and hardly seen, I may go with some off the shelf paint like duplicolor that is available at wally world or auto parts stores.  Does anybody know what a good match might be for the 2009 wineberry red?  Any instructions as to how to remove said part?

Thanks in advance

Bob

Color me happy, or is that Wineberry red?  Looked online and it just so happens the part is still available and wait for it.... In Wineberry Red.  Guess they must of made a bunch in that color.  51 bucks plus about 8 to ship.  I can deal with that.  Probably could have ordered it at the dealer for about the same, but its worth it to have it delivered.

Wow! that's weird. To me, it looks like it's been struck by something going downwards.

Can't think what it could be but it must have had some velocity to crack the plastic that way. Get a new one or fill it and paint it.(that's what I'd do).

Every time I see a new dent or scratch on the car I wonder...HTF did that happen?

That's very strange seems to be cracked from top down. If frame- bike flexed that much you have a serious problem. A passing vehicle could have kicked up something that hit you?

Panel is not hard to replace. Gentle pull rubber floor step up its only fastened by several soft plugs on bottom. 2 screws in front- radiator side and a few along sides and top. Be careful where it meets the front panel it has to slide together. Tabs need to line up. 3 tabs along top edge.

Mech 1 twa wrote:

That's very strange seems to be cracked from top down.   If frame- bike flexed that much  you have a  serious problem.  A passing vehicle could have kicked up something that hit you?

Panel is not hard to replace. Gentle pull rubber floor step up its only fastened by several soft plugs on bottom.  2 screws in front- radiator side and a few along sides and top.    Be careful where it meets the front panel it has to slide together. Tabs need to line up. 3 tabs along top edge.

Thanks for that info, it will help. I'm still clueless as to what caused it, but I'm thinking I'll plan the panel replacement along with changing the antifreeze and maybe do an early oil change as well.  I also haven't done anything with the brakes, so maybe I'll roll that in as well.  I have the Kendon lift I got last year and have yet to put to use, so maybe I'll plan a long afternoon of maintenance and catch up on it all.  Bike has about 7800 miles on it right now, and I doubt any of the fluids have been changed except for the oil, that I did when I first got it.  And I know for a fact the first owner never changed it for as long as he owned the bike. It's a 2009 so its well overdue.

I have seen objects thrown from a mower that could cause such damage

Just after I got my SWing home from FL I was looking it over and noticed a crack in one of the panels. It was sort of hard to find as it matched up really nice without any paint chips etc. What I did was sandpaper it a bit on the inside to clean it up then mixed up a batch of JB Weld and smeared that on it. I like the Quik Set JB Weld because it sets up faster. So far So good. It's been holding very well. I also didn't have to do any touch up on the outside because it did match so well.

I had a 2002 Swing that developed a crack in exactly the same place. I removed the panel, sanded the backside and using home joint tape, I applied PVC cement over the tape. The kind that is used for PVC pipes. Do a search on this forum for patches. There is a certain PVC cement that you need.

I used some 22mm self adhesive plastic car trim black plastic strip. just fill the hole with plastic body filler and press on the trim. I fitted a section along the painted plastic panel for the length of rubber mat.
I showed it to a dealer and he approved, it strengthens the aging plastic. No need to remove anything. Quick fix.

Well, I already ordered the new panel, so at least this time I wont have to patch it up.  I figured by the time I bought the paint including the primer and clearcoat, I'd be in it for 20-30 bucks, this was about 50 something.  As much as I like fixing stuff up, I'm not that experienced in body work.  And this would have probably taken a couple of hours to do over a couple of days with letting the part dry.

To avoid this from happening again I would reinforce the area from the backside before it cracks again. Mine cracked when I applied a lot of weight on the same piece. My 2¢.

Easyrider wrote:

To avoid this from happening again I would reinforce the area from the backside before it cracks again. Mine cracked when I applied a lot of weight on the same piece. My 2¢.

Thats probably a good idea.

Easyrider wrote:

To avoid this from happening again I would reinforce the area from the backside before it cracks again. Mine cracked when I applied a lot of weight on the same piece. My 2¢.

For that you might consider using fiberglass drywall tape and ABS plumbing cement. After sanding the inside of the panel smear on a light layer of that black goopy ABS cement. Then imbed a layer of fiberglass tape. After that sets up to the point of being tacky, add another layer of ABS cement. Repeat as necessary. Be sure to use ABS-only cement. PVC and ABS/PVC cement just wont adhere well to the ABS tupperware.

But for cracks & broken tabs the, hands down, best product is Plast-Aid.

Tim

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-8-oz-ABS-Cement-in-Black-308893/100345366

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80400-Plast-Aid-Acrylic-and-PVC-Repair-Kit-for-Hot-Tub-Cracks-Leaks-6oz/183710073759?epid=1831664033&hash=item2ac5f9439f:g:6V8AAOSwAnxceWs5USPSPriority!19026!US!-1

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Easyrider wrote:

To avoid this from happening again I would reinforce the area from the backside before it cracks again. Mine cracked when I applied a lot of weight on the same piece. My 2¢.

For that you might consider using fiberglass drywall tape and ABS plumbing cement. After sanding the inside of the panel smear on a light layer of that black goopy ABS cement. Then imbed a layer of fiberglass tape. After that sets up to the point of being tacky, add another layer of ABS cement. Repeat as necessary. Be sure to use ABS-only cement. PVC and ABS/PVC cement just wont adhere well to the ABS tupperware.

But for cracks & broken tabs the, hands down, best product is Plast-Aid.

Tim

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-8-oz-ABS-Cement-in-Black-308893/100345366

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80400-Plast-Aid-Acrylic-and-PVC-Repair-Kit-for-Hot-Tub-Cracks-Leaks-6oz/183710073759?epid=1831664033&hash=item2ac5f9439f:g:6V8AAOSwAnxceWs5USPSPriority!19026!US!-1

Thanks Tim,
That is what I meant to say. Not wall joint tape but the fibre glass self adhesive drywall tape.

Is only the left side that's cracking anybody report a right side?   How many ride with a passenger?
Could be passenger stepping with all their weight in that one spot getting on off. Guess?

Plast-Aid is good stuff.  Stinks very bad but bonds very well.  Wear some gloves to keep it off hands.

Mech 1 twa wrote:

Is only the left side that's cracking anybody report a right side?   How many ride with a passenger?
Could be passenger stepping with all their weight in that one spot getting on off. Guess?

Plast-Aid is good stuff.  Stinks very bad but bonds very well.  Wear some gloves to keep it off hands.

Well, what's weird is that I've never ridden a passenger and I've never stood on the floorboards while riding or with it sitting.  

Only thing that might be a possibility is that I am using a front wheel chock when I park it in the garage.  Since I have three in a row, its tight so this helps keep it straight up and gives clearance to walk by.  I usually put it in under power and pull it out with the engine off.  I did check the clearance of the bottom of the bike to the chock and it clears so I still dont think its the cause, but I'm not sure what else could have happened.

I got the part in this past week and this Saturday I went to work on the bike.  Besides replacing the panel, I wanted to change the coolant as well.  Was a good excuse to try out the bike lift I got last year as well.

Getting the bike on the lift is a 2 person job at least for me.  My dear bride helped roll it up and steady it while I got some straps on it.



I got a better look at the panel and I think I know what caused it to crack.  It was the front chock stand I recently got.  The small front wheels dont have enough clearance around the back of the part that flips to hold the wheel steady.  It works ok if the bike is pulled straight in but one morning I had to lean it a bit to the left to clear the other bike and I think it put pressure on the plastic causing it to crack.



The new part and the guilty party:


Panel came off easier then it went on.  Had to transfer metal clips from old to new.  Old screws didnt want to "bite" into the clips but I managed after a while.

Before I put the new panel on I went to work changing the coolant.  Hardest part was figuring out how to get the right glovebox out, but online vids helped with that.  Angling a funnel in to refill was a bit tricky too, but I managed that without spilling too much.  After that I replaced the panel with the new one.

New panel on:


Gave both bikes a bath afterward and called it a day. Not using the chock stand right now, I may mod it a bit so this doesnt happen again or just sell it on CL.

crack like this appeared on my purchased new maybe a year into its life----simple fix,had piece of soft metal in junk box. Bridged the crack, tiny sheet metal screws=Fixed.

john grinsel wrote:

crack like this appeared on my purchased new maybe a year into its life----simple fix,had piece of soft metal in junk box.  Bridged the crack, tiny sheet metal screws=Fixed.

Yeah, that would work too, but it would look like crap.  If you don't care what it looks like or never envision selling it, then that would be a viable option.

EvilTwin, After looking at your photos I'm wondering if you just cant take an angle grinder or saber saw and cut part of the top off so it has no chance of hitting the tupperware again. In the last photo, where the chock meets the rim, couldn't you just cut it straight back so it's flat then buff it off so it's smoother a bit? Just a thought. You could cut it off enough to where it won't hit the SWing again no matter how it's put in.

Yes, buy my fix worked, cheap, lasted until 50,000 miles when I traded bike, my fix no minus on used value, as they have little anyway.

Live and learn at least you know what happened now. Front wheel chock made for larger wheels not small 14" stuff. Try a piece of wood in chock to raise wheel up a little avoiding problem.

Sw Tupperware is easy to break.

Spring has sprung. Ride On