Thermostat Replacement

This is a follow on from my topic of engine temp dropping.

Does anyone know of a tutorial on how to replace the SW thermostat? Couldn't find anything on t'interweb

It's all covered in the Cooling System section pages 6-6 to 6-8 of the Factory Service Manual.

Obviously for copyright reasons it can't be reproduced in text or pics on here. Basically it's removing the left body cover to get access to the thermostat, and then draining the coolant. Then you have to remove the bolt and thermostat housing from the frame.

Remove the bolts, housing stay and thermostat housing cover, remove the O-ring from the housing cover and remove the thermostat. Visually inspect the thermostat for damage, and then do one of those heating the thermostat in hot water checks using a thermometer to to see if it opens other than at 80-84°C and a valve lift minimum of 8mm minimum at 85°C.

Of course you have to be creative and suspend the thermostat in the hot water and not let it touch the pan, or you'll get a false reading.

Installation is replacing the old or new thermostat in the housing with it's air bleed hole facing up and aligning it's ribs with the grooves in the housing. It would also be a good idea to put a new O-ring in the housing cover groove.

Then it’s a matter of installing the housing cover and housing stay to the housing and tightening the bolts, and bolting the housing stay to the frame.  Then it's time to refill the system with coolant and bleed it of air. Then if it's all tickety boo, you can put the left body cover back on.

Taking photos with your phone or iPad as you go might be useful too.

It's topics like that reinforce my long held view that if you want to tinker with your Silver Wing, buy the Factory Service Manual. I bought one and I'm not into the oily spanners and dirty fingernails stuff by any means. I'm no longer a Silver Wing owner either.

Thanks for that Mildrew. I am glad to hear that I only need to remove the side cover and not the tunnel cover. The rest sounds pretty straightforward.

I'm gonna put a new thermostat and O ring in just for peace of mind. I have a pdf manual but it's in German! At least I'll have the torque settings.

If one was to visit the Facebook Silverwing group's page, one could possibly download a full copy of the factory service manual... DAMHIK.

You can test the functionality of the thermostat whilst still in place. Start the engine from cold and keep a hand on the radiator. If its is working normally, the radiator stays cold while the closed thermostat keeps the coolant circulating just around the engine. When that coolant is suitably hot (normally around 75-80C) the thermostat opens, and the radiator will quickly get hot. On the other hand, if the thermostat is jammed open (the normal failing mode) then the radiator will slowly heat up from the time the engine is started.

If you want to replace the whole thing i have about six of them

Thank you Terry for the Facebook info etc. It's good to see that your anti-gravity boots and scooter tyres are working well although I heard a rumour that gravity is a myth......the earth sucks!

siataukreg....thanks for that. I'll see what condition my thermostat and housing are in and I'll let you know.

Loosemarbles wrote:

Thank you Terry for the Facebook info etc. It's good to see that your anti-gravity boots and scooter tyres are working well although I heard a rumour that gravity is a myth......the earth sucks!

Yes, the upside-down thing has its ups and downs...on the plus side, oil changes are really easy to do.

That's really down under.

FYI on T-stat. Loosen the cover bolts before unbolting it from case once it's free and hanging from hoses it will be harder. O-ring is a must old one is well old and will never reseal anyway.

Good info. from Meldrew on the little bleed hole facing up allows the air - coolant to vent.
Never replaced a SW T-stat. Water pump yes and it's not easy upper hose is short and trying to align pump drive and put pump in engine case without O-ring falling out. AHHHHH.

Be patient bleeding cooling system.

https://manuals.wotmeworry.org.uk/Honda/Honda%202002-2013%20%20Silverwing%20600%20Service%20Manual.pdf

This should be the English version.

Just looked up the cost of these its near 50 euros for the stat and seal full thing is a better buy at 50 euros this is on https://www.cmsnl.com/

Mech 1 twa wrote:

That's really down under.

FYI on T-stat.  Loosen the cover bolts before unbolting it from case once it's free and hanging from hoses it will be harder.    O-ring is a must old one is well old and will never reseal anyway.

Good info. from Meldrew on the little bleed hole facing up allows the air - coolant to vent.
Never replaced a SW T-stat.  Water pump yes and it's not easy upper hose is short and trying to align pump drive and put pump in engine case without O-ring falling out. AHHHHH.

Be patient bleeding cooling system.

The O-ring, just a wee dab of dielectric grease will help hold it in place, no slather job needed just enough to keep it in place.

Wow, thanks mech 1 twa for the hints, Lenny for the manual link, siataukreg for the parts info (and the website link) and oldwingguy for another handy hint.

I feel better about tackling this job already. I ought to post the job in the maintenance section of the forum. Watch this...or that...space

Post it. I want to learn how it went.   Here's a few photos of SW water pump.  It has 2 weep holes 1 for coolant 1 for oil mine was leaking oil.  

Here we are, one year on and I still haven't replaced the thermostat.

I'm making plans and ordering the parts soon. However, I can't find a torque setting for the thermostat housing bolts or the housing stay bolts. The manual just says 'tighten securely'.

Does anybody have a torque setting for this?

Loosemarbles wrote:

Here we are, one year on and I still haven't replaced the thermostat.

I'm making plans and ordering the parts soon. However, I can't find a torque setting for the thermostat housing bolts or the housing stay bolts. The manual just says 'tighten securely'.

Does anybody have a torque setting for this?

 
The standard torque for 6MM flange bolts is 13NM/9Ft/lbs, too much IMO for cast aluminun part, I would do no more than 8-10NM/5-7FT/Lbs, just need to compress rubber seal(O ring), snug would work too.

Thanks zrx212. Fortunately, I recently purchased a 5-15nm torque wrench.

Sorted...