Changing Thermostat

Can't seem to find any info on this forum regarding changing the thermostat but looks like a fairly straight forward job in the manual.  I'm about ready for a coolant change anyway. Bikes getting close to 3 years old with 15K miles.

My 2013 SW is taking a long time to come up to operating temperature, 3-4 miles usually, even in this Florida weather.  Used to heat up a lot quicker.  I suspect that the thermostat is not closing all the way.  If I'm going to pull it out to check it I may as well pop for a new one.

Anyone done this?  

Does it operate normally other than that fact? I've not paid close attention on how long mine takes but 3 or 4 miles even in warmer weather doesn't seem to be that out of the ordinary.

Why bother until you know if you really have problem? 3-5miles in just about any temp puts gauge in normal positon.

All I can say is it takes a long time to get up to temp compared to my GL1800 which is usually within a mile. It's only been the past few months that it's been this way. Fairly simple to pull the thermostat as long as the coolant is being drained anyway. Thought someone else may have done this procedure, just trying to pick up some advice.

And yes, it's normal other than that.

POM is everything one reason I changed all the fluids when I bought mine, and the belt, gitter dun.

Exactly what I plan to do . . .

3 - 4 miles sounds about right compared to my 2011 with 8000 miles.

Hi Swing13,

I think mine takes about two to three miles in pretty cold weather.
Since the closed loop feedback fuelling control doesn't kick in until the engine is reasonably warmed up it needs to be right, especially if doing several short trips or your fuel consumption will suffer.

Since you're draining the coolant anyway it makes sense to do it now rather than later.

As it doesn't appear to be a common job you might like to take some pictures and post them up to add to the pictorials on here - please.

Let us know the outcome - it's an interesting one.
I'm sure it'll be pretty straightforward but good luck anyway.

If it 's not  broken don't fix it. How often do one change a thermostat in a car? You are riding a bullet proof Honda .

With all the "new" coolants out there that supposedly go 100K w/o changing, I am not in a big hurry to change mine in the SW. Flushed and changed the fluid in my Goldwing but it had over 30K and 9 years on it so to be safe...

If it ain't broke...

I recently changed mine for the same reason.I had higher consumption because of that.Looked like an easy thing to do but it wasn't.My mec said that he had to remove the center compartment(between legs) to manage extract the thermostat.Now half distance to reach working point.I've changed thermostats to all of my vehicles.They tend to be gradually "lazy" after time

A couple of points. A Goldwing will warm up sooner than a SW because the SW has more radiator area per CC of engine than the GL. Also the Goldwing engine is pushing over 1000 pounds with the average rider.

In reality thermostats rarely fail. The can get crudded up or corroded if one doesn't flush the system every two or three years or uses the wrong coolant. Honda specifies that any coolant used HAS NO SILICATES. Silicates are put in some aluminum block engines to scour out corrosion in the block. In Honda bike engines silicates will damage the water pump seals causing premature failure.
Extended life antifreeze 50,000-15000 mile coolants don't normally have silicates. Prestone extended life and Peak extended life antifreeze is okay as is the Honda labeled coolant.

I'm halfway through changing my thermostat and coolant and WOW!...micbusathens' post above is right.

It's a pig I haven't had to remove the centre compartment but it's a two person job in my opinion. Apart from all the gymnastics involved, re-assembling the housing with its cover requires the absence of gravity.

Anyway, this leads me to question; What torque setting should I use for the two bolts which hold the thermostat housing with its cover???

I Checked the manual but my limited technical knowledge has left me a bit confused. Thanks.

Hello mate,

FSM Cooling System on the Thermostat Section 6-8 says 'Install the housing cover and housing stay to the housing.
Tighten the bolts securely. Install the housing stay to the frame. Tighten the bolts securely.

There's no torque settings listed for these bolts.

Yeah, it's irritating. I've checked the 'general' specs in the torque settings list but I don't know the difference between certain types of bolt. One of the 'flange bolt' settings says 20nM. That sounds like a lot for this particular job. The coolant drain bolt is only 9nM.

I think I'm going slightly mad

Honda SM 1-11 top of page shows standard torques, to be honest and based on my mechanical experience some torque values are way high, IAC  anywhere between 6-9nm should be good for most 6mm bolts, but IMO your overthinking this, hold the head of ratchet in palm of hand and do a wrist twist tight/snug, good enough for me for most 6mm hardware with either 8/10mm head. BTW I use 1/4 ratchets, etc. for small bolts, like SW600 CVT cover, etc. Pic is on my Burgman 400

Well, it's done. Thanks for the comments above.

For the record I thought the following might add some insight into this job for those who have never done it or may be contemplating it.

Having fought my way into the area concerned, I tried to do the job without disturbing any hoses. When it came to re-assembling the housing I found it easier to remove all the hoses (3 of) and do it at a bench. The new sealing ring fell out if I tried to assemble it in one direction and the thermostat fell out if I tried to assemble it in the opposite direction. In the end, closing it up in a clamshell sort of way was the answer.....monitoring any unwanted movement by either the ring or the thermostat, all this while holding the 'housing stay' in place and inserting the bolts.

I took a punt and tightened the two housing components together by using zrx212's suggestion. On checking it equated to at least 10Nm. It 'felt' right. I tightened the housing stay to the frame by 'feel' alone.

Job done and after a 10 mile, rather hard ride to get the engine nice and hot, all seems well.

I took some pictures during my labour for future reference but I'm hoping I don't have to do it again....it's a pig of a job but very satisfying