Final Drive Noise banished

My 70,000km 2001 Swing has had a noisy transmission since I bought it. I replaced the worn belt and rollers (Dr Pulley 26g, just to annoy Meldrew) but it still had a rattle or knock, especially at idle, I thought maybe it was belt slap but that was not the case. Annoyingly, with the cases opened, the belt and variator parts sounded sweet, but every time I put the cases back on, the noise re-appeared. I finally traced the noise to the bearing which is in the outer belt case, I could feel that it was notchy and rattly, even after cleaning and re-greasing.

I bought a new bearing, and have just had that replaced (got my local shop to swap out the bearing for new). The transmission now sounds super smooth, and I am a happy boy.

Just back from a test ride, and still a happy boy. I used to be able to hear the transmission noise reflected off parked cars as I whizzed by, but no more. Quiet and smooth now.

The bearing is a blind installation in that you can't drift it out from the back side like a wheel bearing or steering head bearing. My local dealer did something sneaky involving packing the cavity with grease, freezing the part, and then hydraulicing it out by pressing a socket into the cavity. Wish I'd seen that!

For anyone attempting the same thing, the You Tube channel by Stefano Bonacasa shows a simple home-made tool, made from two bolts, four nuts and a short piece of steel bar. I saw this after I had dropped my parts off with the dealer.

Glad that fixed your problem! Thanks for sharing.

I had a similar noise on my ‘03 SWing and finally traced it to that same bearing. 

In a futile attempt at removing the bearing I used a heat gun, as per the FSM, and heated the area surrounding the bearing. I was partially successful in removing it but once it got 2/3rds of the way out it got stuck. Not wanting to really muck things up I threw in the towel. The area was reheated and using a block of wood a few judicious hammer taps the bearing went back in place.

I took the new bearing and case to a shop to have them do it. The mechanic popped the bearing in the freezer then used a torch with a rosebud tip to heat both the area surrounding the bearing as well as the backside (outside) of that bearing pocket. Once the area was sufficiently heated he picked up the belt case and swung it, face down, onto some 2x4 wood blocks (so that the belt case edge wasn’t damaged). The bearing popped right out.

After that it was a simple matter of tapping in the newly refrigerated bearing.

IMHO the secret was the rosebud flame.

I have a 08 with 48,000 miles and a noise (grinding) sound that is only noticeable at idle and the wheel in a certain position. If I role forward or back a few inches the sound disappears. Does this sound like your issue?
I have had the Honda dealer and a Honda rep listen to the sound and they had no idea.

The noise from mine was consistent and nothing to do with the wheel position. As stated with the two black covers and the alloy cover removed, my drive was quiet just normal whirring and slight whine from the belt, the noise was only present when the alloy case was refitted. A grind sound specific to a wheel position would indicate interaction between the clutch bell and the clutch; if you have the tools, taking the clutch out for a look is not complicated (about 10 minutes to get in there).

Happy it's repaired. But I have to ask how did you cleaned and re-grease a sealed bearing?

Just use the old bearing to drive in the new one.

More than one way to get it done.

I picked the seal out carefully, and flushed out the old grease with brake cleaner, let that dry off and then repacked with grease and clipped the seal back in place.

Okay never tried that before thanks for a new way to grease a bearing.

johnd wrote:

I have a 08 with 48,000 miles and a noise (grinding) sound that is only noticeable at idle and the wheel in a certain position. If I role forward or back a few inches the sound disappears. Does this sound like your issue?
I have had the Honda dealer and a Honda rep listen to the sound and they had no idea.

I believe that your problem is the needle bearings within the clutch hub that can be seen when sighting into the hub from the larger shaft opening. The drive shaft only spins on them bearings when the clutch is not engaged (idling). Remove the rear hub and try to wipe any old dry grease from the pin bearings then re-grease them. That should do the trick. Good luck.

Thank you so much easyrider. That sounds like it could be the answer I have waited to hear for years.
Just spent around 4 hr. removing the exhaust so as to repaint and apply another cover of graphite paper to the plastic cover that was scratched years ago.
Did touch-up painting, polishing, and used 3M rubber treatment on all plastic and rubber. (yes, that includes the tires) just not on the bottom side.
My baby looks fantastic again.

johnd wrote:

Did touch-up painting, polishing, and used 3M rubber treatment on all plastic and rubber. (yes, that includes the tires) just not on the bottom side. My baby looks fantastic again.

Didn't happen without a pic.

OK. You are right, I will update soon and maybe take a video with my grinding sound.
I ride with a bunch of guys called the O.F.M.C which stands for Old Farts Motorcycle Club and therefor my computer skills are also limited. HaHaHa. But will try.

I took some pictures at our “Queen of the Missions” here in Santa Barbara. Built in 1786 she was 1 of 21 built in California.

I've used that SAENG Stealth Screen Edging on a couple of BMW's and a Honda Helix. I also had a couple of those flexible spoiler mounts with SAENG blind spot mirrors on the Sprint Manufacturing screen I fitted to the. Helix.

I might have still been using SAENG screen edging but the last time I looked on their website they wanted to charge something ridiculous like $49 postage to send 3' of edging to the UK. Years ago I'd send them a letter with some dollar bills in it, and they'd send me in return a Jiffy bag with the screen edging.
 
For the last few years I've had a Wunderlich wind spoiler on the Givi screen of any maxi scooter I've owned. It's infinitely adjustable for height and rake, and far more effective than any SAENG product.

This is a short video of the noise coming from the rear wheel. Easy rider, does this sound confirm your idea of being the needle bearings "  Whoops,looks like even though I reduced the size, it is to large a file?

Johnd....did that rattling noise occur if you gunned it from a standing start?

I have a similar noise which is more pronounced when gunning from a standing start.

I'm curious...

Hi Losemarbles.
Nope. I only notice it while at a stop and idling, it doesn't matter if I am revving or not. If I back off and have not moved, the noise is still there.
Good luck with your issue.

Thanks John. The rattling noise I have may be normal and I’m over-analysing it.

I’ll check that rear bearing next time I have the drive cover off though.

Loosemarbles wrote:

Johnd....did that rattling noise occur if you gunned it from a standing start?

I have a similar noise which is more pronounced when gunning from a standing start.

I'm curious...

That noise you are hearing when starting to move under a hard throttle is the belt sliding against your pulleys that are slick with belt material that needs to be scrubbed off. The procedure is to hold your front brake tight and bring your rpm up to 4k for about 5 seconds. Repeat if squeal still present. Eventually the squeal will come back. Usually riders that baby their swing continue to get the squeal. Good luck and ride safe.

That's an interesting theory Easyrider. I'm gonna have a look soon. I'm a bit paranoid about about what goes on under that cover!

Although my SW has low mileage, I suspect that it had a hard life before I got it. The roller ramp plate looks worn and the clutch had been worn to the metal. However, after my loving touch she rides very well.

As a continuation of this post, I experienced a similar problem.

Brought my Silverwing to the workshop to get a transmission noise that's been bugging me for the past few months.

The mechanic tore down my transmission and found the root cause of the noise: a leaking bearing!

I'm typing this from my phone as my Silverwing is WIP.








The product code of the transmission bearing needing replacement


I'm not sure how this bearing failed. If anyone has any explanation, it would help tremendously.

Thanks for the info! Especially for the part numbers, it will be helpful if any of us need them!