[Solved] Clutch/Variator squeal fix?

so i noticed that now a days from what i can tell is MAYBE my variator making a loud squeal when i take off about at 10-15 mph. i at first thought it was my tire so i brought some machine grease for it (haven't applied yet) but then i noticed that when the bike is costing, off or deaccelerating i don't get that sound, only on throttle from stop. also it doesn't make this noise for a while when i first start riding but after it gets warmed up with some stop and go (maybe like 10 or so minutes) then the sound starts. just wanted some insight before cracking open my variator.

the miles are about 11k
and all fluids have been changed mostly all this year (besides  the coolent which was changed November of last year)
also i dont think the drive belt has been changed as im the second owner and i got the bike at 3k miles.

Start out with full throttle a few times and the squeal usually goes away. Light acceleration usually causes the belt to slip more because the CVT will allow the belt to slip due to the lighter grip of the driving pulley. Starting out from stops at full throttle, just for a few seconds a few times generally will cure the noise by cleaning the rubber marks from the pulley faces. I usually hit my throttle for fairly rapid acceleration for a few yards when starting out from a stop sign or stoplight. No more noise. Eaiser on the belt too.

exavid wrote:

Start out with full throttle a few times and the squeal usually goes away. Light acceleration usually causes the belt to slip more because the CVT will allow the belt to slip due to the lighter grip of the driving pulley. Starting out from stops at full throttle, just for a few seconds a few times generally will cure the noise by cleaning the rubber marks from the pulley faces. I usually hit my throttle for fairly rapid acceleration for a few yards when starting out from a stop sign or stoplight. No more noise. Eaiser on the belt too.

not sure if full throttle is practical for me. im usually bumper to bumper in tight traffic when im in the city. i do a lot of light inching forward in these cases.

Run the engine up against the brakes---10-15 seconds---squeal goes away for awhile.

john grinsel wrote:

Run the engine up against the brakes---10-15 seconds---squeal goes away for awhile.

for now that works, but why dose it work and for how long?
im assuming this is a way of deglossing or Sanding the CVT pads?

15 seconds may be a bit much. 5 seconds with the brakes applied should be just fine. May have to do it more often if in everyday stop-and-go driving. My 2¢.

My first new SilverWing, 2007, I think, lasted near 50,000 miles with no trouble, other than running engine up against brakes---belts changed at Honda intervals--my book not worth it to take things apart and start changing parts.

I had precisely the same problem for quite a while and discovered that there were two things going on.

Firstly, keep it clean. Don't use any type of lubricant in the primary drive area. Install a new belt if you're not sure of the existing belt's history.

Secondly, make sure the driven assembly hasn't been over-greased on the spindle. This can contaminate the clutch shoes. It took me three encounters with removal of the driven assembly to figure this one out. I had to clean the clutch shoes each time and it seems to work. Had no squealing or even belt slap for some time now.

Hope this might help...

What did you use to secure the assembly to remove the bolt? I’m looking to replace the clutch , just not sure how to remove the bolt? What type of grease did you use on the bearings?

Tks

The rear pulley has a nut and the front has a bolt. Variator is in the front and you will need a tool to remove it. Just a holder to loosen the bolt search here nothing fancy or expensive .

Rear drive nut can be removed be applying parking brake and holding rear brake lever. Front needs to be removed to get the belt off.

Any good wheel bearing grease will work but only a little will be needed for hub bearing.

Thank you for sharing , I just changed the belt and roles but couldn’t figure out the clutch. Know I’ll go back in and finish the job!

Wnbasac wrote:

Thank you for sharing , I just changed the belt and roles but couldn’t figure out the clutch. Know I’ll go back in and finish the job!

I would suggest you getting a copy of the service manual. There recently was a post where you could download a free copy of the manual. My 2¢.

I’ve got a hard copy of the service manual but it showed a tool to remove the clutch assembly . I now know I just need to apply the brake..it’s apart now to finish the job

Tks

Ok now I’m at my wits end! I applied the brake and held the hand brake but the clutch just spins? In the service manual it shows a tool that I used for the drive pulley but I can’t figure out where to attach it? The Forman says just apply the brake and off the nut comes, mine spins...

How do I secure the clutch housing to remove the nut....

Grip the brake real tight. Use a breaker bar & 22mm socket on the nut. Put the breaker bar at 9:00 o’clock. Do a quick sharp blow down on the breaker bar. That should break the nut loose. Sounds as if some nimrod had the Driven Pulley off and reinstalled it with an impact gun. 

An impact gun is a no-no on both the variator bolt and the DP nut. The DP nut is only torqued to 40 lbs ft, 75 lbs ft for the bolt IIRC. Impact gun okay to remove the nut / bolt, but use a proper torque wrench to install.

Tks I’ll give it a try. I use a toque wrench and I don’t even own a impact we’re CL.

Hopefully this works

Ok it WORKED! Thank you for your advice , I really appreciate it. Is this grease good for the bearings?

Mystik #2 NLGI hi-temp multi-purpose grease?

Like most things these days, a simple product has now become a science.

(I kind of miss using my grease gun on grease nipples, it was very reassuring.... )

Anyway, that grease you mentioned sounds like the stuff I've been using for years without any grief but I'm sure there will be other recommendations from other members.