Slight Handlebar Vibration Question ???

Hi,

I have always had a very slight vibration in my handlebars, as all of my bikes have had. But I had a thought that I want to run by you, hoping for some input. I bought some "rubber electical tape' and was thinking of removing my handlebars from their holders and putting this tape around the bars where it fits on the holders. I don't know what the proper word for "what secures the handlebars". But I am going to put the tape on and have it go around the bars 2 times to see if this will lessen the vibration. I'm sure it will fit back down in the holders properly.

I was just thinking that the rubber tape may lessen the vibration a bit by absorbing some of the vibration. I was thinking if this would make it less safe but the tape isn't really thick and the handlebars could still be tightened down securely.

So what do you some of you think about this? Do you think it would lessen the vibration that comes up through the handlebars? I would think it would do something since the tape is rubber and should absorb some of the vibration. But also do any of you think this could be a safety hazard, even if I am able to tighten the bars securely? I'm going to try it this weekend and I will report back but was just curious if others have an idea about this. Thanks.

JeffR wrote:

I have always had a very slight vibration in my handlebars, as all of my bikes have had.

I replaced the OEM bar end weights with Manic Salamander bar end weights ( http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#6mmYamaha ). It stopped the vibration ... it also changed the handlebar handling characteristics from a sport/swift response to a cruiser response (is the best way I can describe it).

There are addition products which may do what you want
http://www.vibranator.com/default.asp
http://www.fasstco.com/products/insert.shtml

The rubber tape may help, but the source of the vibration starts in the engine. The vibrations travels throughout the bike like the waves from a rock dropped in a pond. The vibrations are not as noticeable in the solid parts of the bike, but are very noticeable in the hollow parts. I believe that to disrupt the vibrations in the handlebars is to make them more of a solid----stuff "silly puddy" or some compacting substance in the bars back about 6 or 8 inches. The bar ends that you can buy are doing the same thing on a smaller scale---however, most are not long enough to make the handlebars solid. The bar ends help but not as much. It doesn't bother me so much, but if it did I'd figure a way to fill the handlebars as compact as possible. I'd bet that the handlebar vibrations are similar but different on all bikes, and more than likely, the vibrations are reduced with greater speed. Interesting problem in physics though.

I bought my '03 used last year. The original owner had already replaced the grips with Kuryaken grips, so I don't know what the original grips felt like. However, my bike does not have bar ends and rides smoothly. I don't have any problems with vibrations numbing my hands or bothering me. I don't even feel any vibrations in my hands.

I would not think that you would get enough benefit from the electrical tape idea to warrant the time spent taking things apart. I would suggest replacement grips instead.

Two other comments on the Kuryaken grips - they are a big diameter and feel good if you have larger hands, and if I could change one thing about them it would be to make them heated grips. I may try some of the heated overwrap grips I have read about next winter.

Philip,

I have aftermarket grips now that are softer and bigger diameter and they are better than the stock grips. My hands don't go numb but I was just thinking of trying to get even less vibration to the handlebars. I also thought that the handlebars and the holders are metal to metal now, and the rubber tape would lessen some of the vibration. It really isn't much at all but just playing around. It should only take 20-30 mins at most to do this and I like to play around.

I read on the VTX site (my other 2 wheeler), that some fill the bar with BB's or some such, then put bar end weights back on. They say it helps. Cheap fix if it does. go to Wally world and buy a carton of them and try that. it may be the cheapest fix out there.

Personally , I have not noticed or had your complaint.

Good Luck
MaxB

Max,

It isn't a complaint but I always want to try to make things better. There is only a slight amount of vibration but at the lower rpm range. Once I hit about 30 it all goes away to virtually nothing. I just like to play around with things alot.

Sorry if I sounded like I was complaining. I just wanted to add some information on the topic.
MaxB

Hey Max,

I didn't think you were complaining or anything. And I think I heard the same thing though about the bb's. I wonder if the handle bars need to be completey packed or just some what filled. I will try the tape and I also found some weighted bar ends in the garage I will try too. Thanks.

I would think completely filled with BB's. Or else it wound sound like a popcorn machine... Quite it...making me hungry .....riding down the road. HAHAHAHHA

MaxB (who doesn't have any popcorn in the kitchen)

Been thinking for a while about this subject. I have a fine vibration through the bars. I also have a tingling in my left hand and muscle ache in the same upper arm.

It isn't serious but I wouldn't want the tingling to get worse, it may be the vibration and tingling aren't related, but I may try different bar end weights to see if it does change anything.

Waspie wrote:

I have a fine vibration through the bars. I also have a tingling in my left hand and muscle ache in the same upper arm.

That is what happened to me though after a long ~790 mile ride ... my upper arm was very sore and hurt for a while.

The Manic Salamander bar ends that I purchased were heavy than normal. Though I wish the weights did not change the steering characteristics as much as they did ... I needed to be sure that my muscle ache did not reappear. After the weights to get a strong response with counter-steering, I have to push the handlebars harder and away from me ... before the heavier bar end weights it would respond with less push and from any angle which you would feel the quick response.

The muscle ache has never reappeared with the Manic Salamander bar ends ... though I do wonder if something else would resolve without changing the driving characteristics as much.

Well, I went out to put the Manic Salamander bar ends, that I bought some time ago, on my bike. When I replaced my grips about a year ago I didn't put the Salamanders back on, since the grips had an end on them. I took the ends off and found they were only a plastic cover that didn't weigh anything at all. So I got the Salalmanders on and went for a short ride and the vibration is gone now.

I didn't have much vibration at all but I think the handlebars have to have some bar ends, even if they are the stock ones. The stock ones still were much heavier than the ends on the grips so that helps. I didn't even think of the bar ends since I planned on putting them on last year but just forgot to. I guess when you hit 50 you start to forget things.

yeah when you hit 50 you..............uhhhhhhhh......nevermind ....I forgot what I was gonna say.
MaxB (now where did I put my keys)

JeffR wrote:

Well, I went out to put the Manic Salamander bar ends, that I bought some time ago, on my bike.

There are two versions of the Manic Salamander bar ends, the rectangular or the dragon-fly (larger diameter inside and smaller diameter outside) ... which version do you have??

JeffR wrote:

So I got the Salalmanders on and went for a short ride and the vibration is gone now.

I didn't have much vibration at all but I think the handlebars have to have some bar ends, even if they are the stock ones.

Do you feel any difference with the steering??

I lost one of my bar-end weights about two months after I put it on ... and I torqued to specs with a torque wrench. Manic Salamander sold me one replacement bar-end weight and I applied Loctite Blue to the threads to make sure they stayed ... I have not had any problem since.

Bill,

I'm not exactly sure but they are black and don't butt up directly to the end of the throttle, which is good. I don't notice any steering difference so far and I did have them on for atleast a year or so, and didn't notice anything different either then. I can't believe I forgot to re-install them last year.

JeffR wrote:

Bill,

I'm not exactly sure but they are black and don't butt up directly to the end of the throttle, which is good. I don't notice any steering difference so far and I did have them on for atleast a year or so, and didn't notice anything different either then. I can't believe I forgot to re-install them last year.

Which profile shape does it look closer to

http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#6mmYamaha

or

http://www.manicsalamander.com/bar_end_weight.htm#8mmBMW


As I recall the Dragonfly (6mmYamaha) style has more weight ... so I am curious if the smaller weight resolves problem without greatly changing the handling characteristics.

Bill,

I will take a picture of them and the box they came in. Maybe the box still has the tag on it for what type they are. They look like the 2nd link except longer and mine are black. But I will post a pic tonight.

Bill,

I posted a picture in the previous post. They are black ends and not the silver ones in the ads.

JeffR wrote:

This is the rectangular profile ... (not the "Dragonfly" as they call it). Based on what you are saying it sounds like the the lighter rectangular profile resolve the vibration without drastically changing the steering characteristics. Hmmm ... I may have to order a set and experiment. Thanks for the picture and information.

I had a pair of BMW K100 bar ends that I modified to fit the Swing. They are about twice as heavy as the stock Honda parts. I experience NO handlebar vibration with them. I suspect that the rectangular profile Salamander parts are very similar.

Bill,

I'm not sure what they are called but they are round and not rectangular. I need to get a new hex screw on the other one since it got bent when someone backed into my bike and knocked it over. It still works but is a bit bent.

I looked on the Salamander site and didn't see these. They are the 6mm Yamaha ones according to the box. And I'm glad the pics helped somewhat.

JeffR wrote:

Bill,

I'm not sure what they are called but they are round and not rectangular. I need to get a new hex screw on the other one since it got bent when someone backed into my bike and knocked it over. It still works but is a bit bent.

I looked on the Salamander site and didn't see these. They are the 6mm Yamaha ones according to the box. And I'm glad the pics helped somewhat.

If you stand right over the bar-end and look straight down at the just the bar-end shape ... the bar-end shape is (mostly rectangular) ... the sizes are not porportional

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My bar-end is black in this shape

I am 'thinking' of a DIY Handlebar End Weight (HEW) project. Maybe I will buy them but really don't want to pay $75 if I can DIY. So, I am collecting data on what to do. My stock HEWs are 1.28" OD by 0.865" long (from end of stem where it bears on the handle bar to the far end of the screw that attaches the assembly to the bar) and weigh (by calculation) just over 4oz. It seems as if the ManicSalamander's are 12oz or 16oz (cost $65 or $75). What is the OD and the Length of the 12oz and 16oz ManicSalamander HEWs? Also, if you have some other HEW that does a good job on vibration reduction, what is the make and what are the dimensions. If I elect a DIY project I will let you know what I did and if it helped. My thinking now is that 1-5/8" OD x 1-1/4" length may be a good place to start. If you know where I can buy HEWs of 12oz at a bargain rate - also let me know. Any input is welcome. Thanks.

My Blue Swing started without much vibration but now has a lot more - to the point of numb hands. My thought is that the cure should not be to put weights on the handle bars but to find why the engine is vibrating that much more - and fix that.

My first thought is that maybe the spark plugs are not firing equally - I had it at a dealer while I did an NC700X rental and asked them to change the spark plugs - they called and said "... the spark plug was changed....". I said "Uh... it's a twin." Anyway, that was only 4K ago but the vibration is just getting worse. I also changed the belt and cleaned the varistor 2K miles ago but don't thing that is the source.

Some people have lessened the vibrations by fitting Dr Pulley Sliders (24 or 26 gram sliders).

But the most common cure is as already posted, increase the weight of the handle bar end weights. My Silverwing has standard ones fitted so i cannot say about any improvement using them.
Good luck and please post your findings.

Cheers,

some swings already had issues with handle bars coming loose , I don't think I would wrap the clamp joint with tape it might be a safety hazard ..

I would use the fore mentioned methods to quell the vibration , also my observations are , keeping the gas tank full, using 10w40 over 20w50 , using pure gas "no alcohol " or high octane gas , and adding two ounces of marvels mystery oil every fill up , for me , all = less vibes

What about fitting a pair Grip Puppies aren't they supposed to reduce vibration. Personally I think they are rubbish but some members like them.

That is something I forgot to do! I rode my bike through the winter and did not put in the 1/4 cup of Marvel Mistery Oil to a full tank as I have done in the past for storage. OK, off to find my MM Oil - I know I have a bunch...

Premium in a Swing? Why? All Premium does is raise the ability to have high compression. We have a low compression engine.

I think handle bar weights and grip puppies are fixing the symptom, not the disease. My bike had very little vibration when I started with it and I want to keep it that way. Keep it easy but also keep it healthy and right. I might do handle bar weights, but would like to find the source of the vibration.

I got the Swing because I did not want a Harley - I watch them at the stop lights and they are bouncing.

JeffR wrote:

I was just thinking that the rubber tape may lessen the vibration a bit by absorbing some of the vibration. I was thinking if this would make it less safe but the tape isn't really thick and the handlebars could still be tightened down securely.

My opinion is don't do the tape. You might get it tight enough but if it is allowing play, which it must to absorb the vibration, then it is allowing motion at the joint. Motion means additional stress and I think it increases the possibility of failure of the bolts, or the bolts loosening.

How many times have you pushed your bike or held it up to keep from falling by the handle bars? (I now have muscles like Charles Atlas - not)

I do use foam tape - when I put body panels back to reduce rattle. But these are not stress points.

why premium ? it has less alcohol in it , my swing gets drunk on regular , and one of us needs to be sober enough to drive home ..LOL

my swing rattles like a box of hammers and its get up and go has done got up and went if I put regular alcohol gas in it ...

Vibration on the handle bar could be that you are holding on to tight causing sum numbness in the hands . A more re lack 's position can help to eliminate the problem. It don't hurt to try.If you dropped the swing you could have broken the main tab , look for some separation and movement by pushing on it.

Vibration on the handle bar could be that you are holding on to tight causing sum numbness in the hands . A more re lack 's position can help to eliminate the problem. It don't hurt to try.If you dropped the swing you could have broken the main tab , look for some separation and movement by pushing on it.

I was sitting on the bike while it was idling and revved it - Got vibration. So I am pretty sure it is coming from the engine. I may try changing the oil to a heavier oil and will check the spark plugs that the dealer supposedly changed. I may also take apart the varistor and check the weights - use a postal scale to compare them and make sure they match or that matching weights are opposite each other.

Should I consider lubricating the weights with a silicone lube? Now that I am thinking varistor it seems that the vibration was there a little before, but got worse after I changed the belt. I did not track which weight came from which slot. Hope I got them all in facing the right way...

All this will wait until I get back from a trip - no rush as I picked up an almost new 2008 FJR 1300 AE. That also has vibration from the engine at 4000-4500+ RPM. Dealer said break it in and at the 4000 mile service he will look into synchronizing the 4 cylinders (an FJR Forum cure).

I found some 9 oz. bar end weights and used them in combination with the stock weights by buying longer bolts, reversing the stock weights, and installing the new weights and did it fairly cheaply. I had to use a thin washer on the throttle side to avoid binding. I think that the weights cost around $ 25.

1Wingman1 wrote:

I found some 9 oz. bar end weights and used them in combination with the stock weights by buying longer bolts, reversing the stock weights, and installing the new weights and did it fairly cheaply.  I had to use a thin washer on the throttle side to avoid binding.  I think that the weights cost around $ 25.

So did the extra bar end weight remedy the handlebar shake?

I believe that the total weight on each end is approx. 13 oz. but it didn't do anything to improve the numbing of my right hand. I guess that I need carpal tunnel surgery. I never have trouble with my left hand.

I've always assumed that the numbing of the right hand is an occupational hazard of riding twins, or singles for that matter. It's most noticeable on longer, motorway riding.

My CX650ED gave me acute numbing of the right hand and that was a V twin. The reason it doesn't happen to your left hand is because it's not under tension of keeping on the throttle. Just sayin'

If you are gripping the throttle too hard your had will go to sleep. try relaxin your grip - you probably don't need to grip it that hard to turn it. If you do, your cables may need lubrication.

Ok, advice that is easy to give but hard to follow. I cheat... I use a wrist rest on all my bikes. It reminds me to relax and even lets me ride with an open palm. Install it so at idle it is in line with your hand/arm, then press down to go. You don't want it poking into your palm if you need to throttle down quickly or are grabbing the brakes. You can still grip the throttle and twist extra hard if you really need the acceleration.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Universal-Motorcycle-Throttle-Grips-Throttle-Assist-Wrist-Cruise-Control-Durable-Motorcycle-Cramp-Rest/918476103?athbdg=L1400

I got rid of some of my general vibration by replacing the varistor with a with slightly lighter weights (DRJ? - been a while). Sadly, I don't ride the Swing much - the FJR just calls out to me and is a smoother ride, but the Swing was a great learning bike and I had good times on it.