Changing the Final Drive Oil Pictorial

Hi,

I thought I was going to do this a couple of weeks ago but didn't have a chance. Here is a pictorial on how to change the Final Drive Oil. It is very easy and this will help not have to pay an mechanic to do this for you . You will see that the area is dirty with grease but I kept that there to help see the bolt better.... or maybe I didn't have time to clean it since I was riding too much.

Here it is in a .pdf format:

Hope this helps those that haven't done this yet or don't think that you can't. It is very easy to do if you read through this first. Make sure you find something like the oil can that I used to re-fill the oil. Whatever you use needs to be thin and about 4" long. I was going to experiment with a straw, and it worked, but when I cut the nozzle off the Gear Oil bottle to far down it wouldn't fit in the end of the straw. If you use the type of Gear Oil with the nozzle that is about 2"-3" long make sure you cut it right at the top. If you do this you can insert the straw into the hole of the case and then the nozzle of the Gear Oil container in the other end of the straw.

If you have any questions please ask.

Jeff, I hope you realize how much your pictorial posts are help to really slow mechanical folks like me. I have a manual, owned a service station for 11 years (did minor repairs of all kinds), college degree, read books all the time, but nothing seems to stick when I read the service manual for some of the routine maintenance items required. Looking at your very specific and detailed instructions hits the spot. I am going to be indebted to you for a long time. Thanks for all you effort.

Now post a repair porcedure for my IRA. I really need your help.

Gary

Gary,

I'm glad you find them helpful. But for IRA all I can say is "Buy High and sell Low" or something like that.

JeffR wrote:

Here is a pictorial on how to change the Final Drive Oil. It is very easy and this will help not have to pay an mechanic to do this for you .

Jeff,

I read somewhere (could be the Maintenance Manual that after taking the bottom bolt out and finished draining to SLOWLY rotate the wheel several times.

I find that more dirty oil comes out in small clumps.
I do this until I don't see any more clumps appearing.

Bill,

You are right about turning the wheel and I did do that but forgot to include it. I will try to amend my pictorial this week. Thanks.

Mr. Jeffr, Sir:

your pictures and explanation were excellent. however, last summer i took my scoot to the dealer for tires, drive belt, plugs, and rear drive oil change and they put 10w 30 motor oil in the final drive, which is (what they showed me) is called for in the service manual. my reflex takes 80-90 gear lube but the swing shows a thirst for motor oil in the final drive. most likely either will work. it is a robust machine, isn't it?

Tom,

The manual does say to use the same kind of oil you use for the crankcase but many have used the gear lube too. This is the first time I have used it and am just trying it. Some have said that it smooths out the transmission some so I will see. I have only been able to ride about 10 miles and it did seem quieter, but I can't say just yet. The SWing is a robust machine and I have had this 2 years, next month, and really like this bike. This is the first time I have ever had a bike where I don't want anything else. Also, please don't call me sir. (lol)

HHHHHHMMMMMMMM

Just a thought. I have owned a Range Rover and the transmission /gearbox oil was specified as "motor oil", same as in the crankcases. The Land Rover I had owned previously however used "gearbox oil" around 80-90. The reason for the difference was the bearings in the Rangie were not compatible with the high sulphur content in the transmission oil, which would cause the alloys in them to erode away. you may want to check it out with Honda as to why they use engine oil in the final transmission instead of the heavier oil.

Suggestion for those using oilcans bought from Pep Boys or Walmart. Mine had a flexible hose terminating in a metal nozzle which actually did NOT fit into the hole where the final drive oil was supposed to go, so I had to 'seat' the nozzle inside the rim of the hole and squirt the oil in. Problem with these oilcans is that about half as much oil came out through the hose and top of the can as actually went into the crankcase, and oil was constantly dripping out of the top hole, so I had no idea whether or not it was actually full or just leaking out from the nozzle.

Cosmic Jumper came over and helped me figure it out for sure. We tipped the scooter a little to the right and then slid some wood under the left 'leg' of the center stand. That way, any oil that was actually coming from nozzle leakage would still get into the final drive. It was a whole lot less messy that way. Next time, I'm buying a proper filler from Harbor Freight. I tried to find the post from Opalsboy describing how he fills the final drive oil from the bottom but couldn't locate it. Anyone know how to find it?

Link in first post of this thread perhaps?

https://www.silverwing600.com/maintenance-tips-and-hints-f7/changing-the-final-drive-oil-pictorial-t200.htm

That's the same thread as the one we're on, Mike... There was one other thread or post about how folks change their final drive oil where Opalsboy mentioned filling the oil through the bottom bolt till it came out from the top... I can't seem to find it anywhere on the site. I remember him saying that it reminded him of how he used to do the same thing on boats, and I think someone else did the same thing... I just had a heck of a time doing it from the top (probably because my oilcan made such a mess) and was wondering if it might be easier next time to do it the way Opalsboy does... if only I can find it!

Oops! Sorry, Hammy.
I'll look again.

This one?
5th Post:

https://www.silverwing600.com/other-scooter-topics-f9/12000-mile-shopping-list-t1857.htm#15921

HOORAY! Give that man a... whatever you drink, Mike!

One does one's best.

Hammy ... the method I used was pretty straight forward... take top plug out,... take bottom plug out... wait for oil to drain... then use a squeeze bottle with a proper size spout to fit the bottom hole very tightly and just squeeze till the oil starts to come out of top hole... then put plug in top hole then put plug in bottom... I still intend to find the bottle or one like it that I used... the key is to find one that does fit the bottom hole tightly. I have done it twice and just did it... hope you can have some success with it. I like the idea you and Cosmic Jumper used leaning the scoot a little... I can see how that might work to allow the air to escape which is what I gained by using my method. I was like you, making a big mess and putting more oil on ground than in the drive...

When it gets cooler, like in the low 80s or upper 70s, I am going to find that dang squeeze bottle. Then locate a dozen or so then send them to anyone that wants to try one. I can't stand this heat.... and my squirrels are still complaining too.

I slowly rotate the tire draining ( https://www.silverwing600.com/pictorials-how-to-perform-maintenance-f21/changing-the-final-drive-oil-pictorial-t200.htm#977 )

I then stop filling and slowly rotate the tire while filling a couple of times to get the air bulbs out.

Thanks guys!

I found the said oil can on Harbor Freight's website:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-oz-high-pressure-oiler-66350.html

However, it says the nozzle is 3-1/8" long. The pictorial mentions needing about 4".

Anyone know if this can will work?

--Russ

Russ,

It looks like it should work fine. I did the pictorial and mine is about 4" and it has plenty of room to put the oil in the final drive.

I am changing the final drive oil this weekend & see that the service manual says to replace the sealing washers @ the filler bolt and the drain bolt. However, my Honda parts guys @ the dealership can't find them in their list of parts on the microfiche.

Does anyone know the part numbers?

--Russ

russcarver wrote:

I am changing the final drive oil this weekend & see that the service manual says to replace the sealing washers @ the filler bolt and the drain bolt. However, my Honda parts guys @ the dealership can't find them in their list of parts on the microfiche.

Does anyone know the part numbers?

Under Transmission:

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/1493-honda-2007-silver-wing-FSC600A/assemblies/18535

Final drive bolt: 8 SKU: 90051-MCT-000 BOLT, SPECIAL (8X22)
Washer: 12 SKU: 90474-333-000 WASHER, SEALING (8MM)

Thanks for the part numbers for the bolt and the sealing washer for where you put in the final drive oil.

I'm also looking for the sealing washer that goes on the drain bolt. I can't seem to find it scouring through pages.

Does anyone know which part it is?

--Russ

russcarver wrote:

I'm also looking for the sealing washer that goes on the drain bolt. I can't seem to find it scouring through pages.

Does anyone know which part it is?

The final drive bolt looks like it has a washer on it in the exploded diagram ... but it does not. Number 8 is one piece ... it is indeed the shape of the bolt. That is how I found the bolt in the first place by it's unique shape.

Yes, and thank you for the tip! But to reiterate, I need TWO sealing washers.

One fits on the final drive bolt (part #90474-333-000 as you specified above - thanks!).

The other fits on the drain bolt (where you drain out the final drive oil).

It's the latter that I cannot find.

Help!

--Russ

That washer isn't listed on the transmission area of the fiche. When I examined mine the washer didn't appear to be anything special (not a crushable washer etc.) it looked to be just a plain steel washer. I reused it.

Great! I'll reuse the drain bolt washer then as it's metal.

What about the final drive bolt washer...is it metal too?

And if thery're metal, why do they recommend replacing?

I would still like to know the part number of the 2nd washer....just because I'm an engineer and I HAVE to know!

--Russ

russcarver wrote:

The other fits on the drain bolt (where you drain out the final drive oil).

It's the latter that I cannot find.

Swingarm

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/1493-honda-2007-silver-wing-FSC600A/assemblies/18530

I believe they are trying to (poorly) point to below the SWingarm.

Only one of each
037 95701-08018-00 BOLT, FLANGE (8X18)
026 90474-333-000 WASHER (8MM)

You can have your Honda dealer confirm it.

honda_silver wrote:

russcarver wrote:

The other fits on the drain bolt (where you drain out the final drive oil).

It's the latter that I cannot find.

Swingarm

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/1493-honda-2007-silver-wing-FSC600A/assemblies/18530

I believe they are trying to (poorly) point to below the SWingarm.

Only one of each
037 95701-08018-00 BOLT, FLANGE (8X18)
026 90474-333-000 WASHER (8MM)

You can have your Honda dealer confirm it.

That could be it, but it's still just a regular ol' 8mm washer. =)

x

The oil change went well. The filler bolt (7/32" hex) does have a washer attached to it as well as another washer behind it (I ride a 2005). Both that washer and the drain bolt washer were metal as stated and in excellent condition so I reused them.

I got a pistol grip oil can with a narrow & long spout that fit perfectly (at Napa auto). It holds 6 oz and I got nearly 3 cans into the hole (the can doesn't fully drain by pumping).

I went with Shell Rotella T5 synthetic blend (same as my engine oil).

Cheers!

--Russ

The size of the allen wrench would help in your description. Thanks

As described, it is a 7/32" hex (or allen wrench). I personally used a 7/32" hex drill bit as my allen wrench would not break it free.

--Russ

JeffR, another thank you for the maintenance pictorials. This afternoon, I decided it was time to change the Silver Wing's final drive oil. Fortunately, I found a 12mm wrench with open-end on one end and six-point box on the other, a quarter inch hex tool, and an oil can with a long nozzle in the garage. Your instructions couldn't have been more accurate. My only regret is not capturing the old final drive oil in a separate container. I am convinced that far more new oil went into the reservoir than old oil came out during the draining process. Having purchased the Swing almost nine years after its manufacture, I am wondering if any of the prior owners replaced the oil. Just as you explained, I kept pumping the oil can after filling it once and refilling it two more times until oil began seeping back out. On my first attempt, the entire process required less than a half hour, including the time I left the garage to allow the old oil to drain completely. My actual hands-on time was probably 10 minutes or so.

Previously, I had performed an engine oil and filter change per your pictorial instructions. Today, the Swing received new final drive oil. Next up is the air filter. Thanks again!

redeye wrote:

a quarter inch hex tool

My mistake. This was a 6mm hex tool, not quarter inch.

russcarver wrote:

As described, it is a 7/32" hex (or allen wrench). I personally used a 7/32" hex drill bit as my allen wrench would not break it free.

--Russ

Russ,

ALL bolt heads, nuts and allen (hex) drive fittings on the Swing are metric.

While a 7/32 inch is CLOSE to 6mm it is not exact.

:flower:

Sure glad this information was available as I would hate to break a tab unnecessarily removing tupperware.

And thanks to KurtPerthWA for his explanation of a possible reason Honda recommends engine oil instead of gear lube.

Yet another brilliant pictorial. Iam going to to this as well. I could spend hours on this site ha.

Went to Harbor Freight and bought a pump oil can that holds 20 fl. oz. it was $5.99 and comes with a thin metal delivery tube and a flexible plastic delivery tube their about 4 to 5 inches long. The metal tube easily fits in the bolt hole and works great for filling the drive gear box. FYI all you Swingers.

I just used a cheap condiment bottle from the grocery, but then I also removed the outer cover. Takes longer, but then I inspected and carefully cleaned the foam filter inside the outer cover. it was covered in hay!

Hi Jeffr - Thanks for that pictorial PDF post - great stuff - but I'd note that you cite 10cc as the refill volume - but it's > 3x that - in the service manual it cites 0.32 litre. I didn't have one of the tin-man oil cans, but I did have a spare turkey baster syringe that was perfect - the syringe was just the right diameter to get in the deep pocket, and the needle was a large bore that was another couple inches long. It took about 4 syringes to fill it. Thanks again.

Jeff actually says 10oz, not 10cc.
I can't do the maths but I suspect 10oz relates to 30cc.
I'd do what he says, though, and fill it until it just begins to run out of the hole.

Good luck!

I bought half a dozen clear plastic syringes  a few years ago to make servicing jobs simpler. I used one to refill the final drive when I owned a Silver Wing. Another is used  to remove most of the old brake fluid in the front and rear brake fluid reservoirs so I don't have to push it through the brake lines when changing brake fluid. It's simpler to refill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid with a syringe as well.

I've also used a syringe with a short length of plastic hose after coolant changes to add or remove coolant from the expansion bottle to get the correct level.

Tinkering isn’t my thing, but anything to made it less tedious works for me.

I just replaced the final drive oil too, on my new to me 2006 SWing with 7,000 miles. I didn’t remove any of the covers, just the drain bolt and access Allen bolt. No need to remove anything else.

The fluid I drained out did not look healthy, an opaque tan/gray color, nothing like motor oil.

I refilled with 10w-40 using an old fashioned pump oil can. It was a surprisingly easy task.

JeffR - Thanks for the great instructions!

Howdy and thank you JeffR! Did the deed yesterday. Old oil looked like and had the viscosity of black water! Used 10w60 that was left over from the Guzzi, also, seems like the random weird noise from lower left has disappeared. Thanks again, Paul.