Headlight Low Beam (upper) Bulb Removal and Replacment

Replaced my 'low beam bulb' (the upper bulb in the headlight - not the lower one) over the weekend - how hard can that be? Well for me, I made it VERY hard. So, thinking we need a procedure for this (maybe it is elsewhere, but I could not find it - at least the part dealing with releasing the Retainer (spring). The hard part for me was getting the Retainer to release. Not even sure that I did it correctly - but what I have outlined below somehow worked for me. If someone has a better idea/way - then please elaborate on your procedure. Maybe the procedure is somewhere on this forum - or some forum - but I could not find it. Possibly because it is a simple matter and only I have made it this hard!

Tools/Supplies:
Screwdriver
Piece of Wood - 3"x5/8"x1/4" (this is what I used but the dimensions can likely vary some - but it can't be too long, too wide, or too thick or it won't fit).
Bulb - 55watt, H7 is OEM size.
Latex gloves - Or something to keep your fingers off the bulb.
Plastic Card - To assist in helping to release garnish tabs.
Mirror/Flashlight - A little mirror and a flashlight would be nice to take a peek at what you will be working on (but you can't use it while your working) - I replaced mine without these as I did not have a small mirror.

Steps to Follow:
1. Check out the photo in the following post as it explains a lot: https://www.silverwing600.com/t1901-headlight-bulb-replacement and for the most part you are never going to see most of the stuff in this photo - just feel it. Also, look at the Honda Service Manual for Headlight Bulb Replacement (21-5 in my manual) and Windshield Garnish Removal (2-12 in my manual) as there are some nifty diagrams - but if you don't have the manual that is OK as this procedure advises you on what to do.
2. Buy Bulb - I got a 55watt H7 at my local auto store, which had quite a variety of H7's available; however, the discussion of what bulb to actually use is not the subject of this procedure - which is geared to just bulb replacement.
3. Remove Windshield Garnish in front of windshield - Take out 4 screws, insert credit care (plastic card) under lower front side of garnish where it overlaps the headlight, grab the top of the garnish (one side) and push down along the face of the cowl to release the tabs - but be careful. https://www.silverwing600.com/t5149-headlight-trim-removal#48181 shows how to do this. I took my windshield and the small piece of black plastic (Front Meter Visor) off also to give just a bit more hand room - but next time I think that I can do this bulb replacement without taking windscreen/visor items off.
4. Reach in and remove electrical Headlight Connector from the back of the bulb - you will be able to see it.
5. Remove Dust Seal around bulb - You can't see it but you can feel it. It comes off very easily.
6. Release Retainer (spring) - The Retainer spring looks (to me) like any retainer holding your car bulb. However, this was the really hard step (for me). I fiddled and faddled for an hour with a myriad of tools/gloves but could not get the blasted retainer spring to release (I guess I have weak hands/thumbs) - until I got the above noted Piece of Wood! With the wood I was able to push directly down on the U-shaped tab the sticks vertically up from the Retainer spring with enough force to get the Retainer spring clip to release - you can't see what your doing with your hand(s) in there - so you do this by feel. Stand with your face to the rear of the bike, reach in with your hand, and align the Piece of Wood so that the long axis of the wood runs toward the back of the bike, keep the wood horizontal above the bulb, and move it towards the front of the bike just above the Retainer spring tab. The wood also helps insofar as not putting something that is too hard or exerts too much force - which may damage something. When the Retainer spring releases be sure to hold onto the bulb and the wood - the spring just flops down on a pivot and stays connected to the headlight. Guess you could use a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers (which I don't have) but you would need to be careful of what you grab and how much force you exert - as slipping may damage something.
7. Remove bulb.
8. Pry the transition electrical connector off old bulb and install on new bulb.
9. Place new bulb in headlight - align it so it fits in.
10. Re-install Retainer Spring - Flip the retainer spring up and use the Piece of Wood for pushing down on tab to engage retainer spring.
11. Re-install Dust Seal - Orient the dust seal so that the Dust Seal arrow mark is on the top and the rubber tabs are on the bottom.
12. Plug in Headlight Connector.
13. Test the light to see that it works.
14. Re-install Windshield Garnish
15. Drink Beer (oh, guess we better add this to the supplies list!)

Well written Dimond!
I only thought about taking this light out when I installed my Givi. It looked a little too daunting to do at the time so I buttoned up the scoot' instead.
Did you install a "blue" emission light so you can be seen better?

Just replaced a blown T10 that went when I was in Ireland. Managed to drop both T10's in headlamp when replacing. Pig of a job, I could live with one rattling about but not 2. Anyways I made a retrieval tool out of a bendy drinking straw with double sided tape wrapped round the end. See pic. Was fiddly to retrieve my bulbs (3 goes 2 bulbs) through low beam headlamp hole and was made more difficult because I have bolted my Stehbl horn up behind the headlamp.
If anything getting the low beam bulb back in was the hardest part.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B2F7oqXpaxzBZzd5UE4waHRyUzg/edit

While I have never had the difficulty changing bulbs that you've just experienced, your procedure is well written and a good reference for anyone apprehensive about changing headlight bulbs. Thank goodness we here in North America don't have to deal with those T-10 bulbs though.

If you ever have the opportunity to remove the front fairing you can take a look at those headlight bulb mountings and see how they work. It's really a very simple mounting, and the fact that the clip is 'hinged' so won't get lost is really reassuring. Having seen and then being able to visualize that bulb mount process makes the job it much easier later on --say when it's 02:00 and you are replacing that burned out bulb while in a rest plaza on I-80. Just remember to take the plug adapter off the original bulb. DAMHIK

Nice write up Mr Dimond

Tim

You do carry a spare bulb, don't you?..and an old belt.

Tim

FYI - May I add a extra about the gloves while changing bulbs,  in spite of the gloves it's best to wipe the bulSb with alcohol to be sure, when I bought bulbs for my G'wing the sales lady told me that, seems they had some fail because someone before final packaging had touched the bulbs with bare fingers. IT'S A CHEAP PREVENTATIVE MOVE.   Al

Well written thanks for the time you spent on this Dimond! Maybe we should just go to the last sentence, BEER!!! LOL

Actually I just had to replace BOTH H7's on my Goldwing; seems the OEM bulbs always go out at nearly the same time. My first went out on a run to Death Valley and one of the guys pointed it out and warned me about the 2nd one. I let it ride until I got home and sure enough the other one had died too! (about 400 miles and 2 days at most).

Anyway the big Wing uses the same socket but has two of them. I was able to replace both of them w/o removing any tupperware but still it is quite a job as you can't see anything with your hand in the hole Once I mastered the retaining clip the job became simple. I did not need a wood piece on mine, guess I had more room. Replaced the H7 and turned on the key and new bulb lit up! Yay, but that is when I realized the other died too d'oh. Off to O'Reillys and bought another bulb. Fresh off the first I replaced it in 10 minutes.

And yes I now have an extra H7 that I carry in whichever Wing is going on a trip...

I just finished replacing both bulbs. Good write-up on bumping (or just pushing) off the "garnish" with a piece of cardboard or a credit card. The trick to the metal spring is to push it toward the headlight, then slide it about 1/4 inch toward the throttle side of the bike (to unhook it). It comes off and goes back on pretty easy if you know it needs to be hooked this way. Also, make sure the rubber boot seals around the bulb (not covering up one of the pins) and around the housing (to keep water out - drain holes *down*). Lower bulb (high beam) easier access thru wheel well with no removal of the garnish.

pattim wrote:

I just finished replacing both bulbs.  Good write-up on bumping (or just pushing) off the "garnish" with a piece of cardboard or a credit card.  The trick to the metal spring is to push it toward the headlight, then slide it  about 1/4 inch toward the throttle side of the bike (to unhook it).  It comes off and goes back on pretty easy if you know it needs to be hooked this way.  Also, make sure the rubber boot seals around the bulb (not covering up one of the pins) and around the housing (to keep water out - drain holes *down*).  Lower bulb (high beam) easier access thru wheel well with no removal of the garnish.

Pattim, your info above is very important about which way to press and slide the retainer spring. Once you get that motion, the bulb can be changed quickly. On my BMW, I had to play with the dual spring holder for quite some time before I had success in releasing and returning the spring back after replacing the bulb. After that, it was simple.

Let us hope next Honda scooter design has head lite bulb easier to change. Current SilverWing original lasted to 40,000 miles.

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

While I have never had the difficulty changing bulbs that you've just experienced, your procedure is well written and a good reference for anyone apprehensive about changing headlight bulbs. Thank goodness we here in North America don't have to deal with those T-10 bulbs though.

If you ever have the opportunity to remove the front fairing you can take a look at those headlight bulb mountings and see how they work. It's really a very simple mounting, and the fact that the clip is 'hinged' so won't get lost is really reassuring. Having seen and then being able to visualize that bulb mount process makes the job it much easier later on --say when it's 02:00 and you are replacing that burned out bulb while in a rest plaza on I-80. Just remember to take the plug adapter off the original bulb. DAMHIK

Nice write up Mr Dimond

Tim

You do carry a spare bulb, don't you?..and an old belt.

Tim

I stuck a small mirror in and used a bicycle lamp to see where everything was and how it worked and then could imagine it very clearly and understand what I was seeing with my fingertips.

Is the lower bulb as easy to change?

It is important (and a legal requirement in most European countries) to carry spare bulbs - and important to know how to change them in the dark on the side of the road. Practice.

The only way to be able to change the Silver Wings bulbs easily is to familiarise yourself with removing both upper and lower bulbs before one fails. Because I found out (and I bought my Silver Wing new) that the rubber sleeve on both bulb holders sticks to the metal due to reflected heat from the bulb.

Once you've initially removed the sleeves and gave them a spray of rubber lubricant they go back on and can be removed in future much easier.

I updated both main and dip bulbs a couple of years before I sold my Silver Wing and it was a simple procedure, simply because I'd had previous experience in the confined space with the headlamp garnish removed messing about with those useless LED pilot bulbs.

It's not a job I'd want to do by the side of the road though.

Anyway I've now got a full LED light set up on the Forza, so carrying a spare bulb set anymore is just a box ticking exercise.