Another Newbie

Hi Everyone,

I've had my Wing (2008, 25000 Miles) about 2 months now and been using this site allot, thanks, got myself a Dennis Mount and Ram X holder for GPS, both great. I carried out a service last W/E, Thanks for the pictorials (P.S. UK owners: service kit on FleaBay £45 from BlackpoolHonda)

I get a horrible whining from the clutch but I‘ve just read up how to fix that Cheers (Kin commuting glazing the clutch plates probably) I want to go for some DR Roller sliders I think and possibly a HIT clutch but the HIT is pricey, I’ll have a look see at the stock clutch (How long do they last?) when I swap out the rollers & change the belt.

My Wing is a bit of a mess really I’ve found that most of the panel mounts are busted which causes nasty vibration noises, If anyone knows how to repair them please let us know how (Araldite?, Soldering Iron? or something else). There is also an Oil leak coming from the front of the engine fairly high up as far as I can see?? (it’s not a 60's British bike!)

I've done about 1000 Miles so far all commuting into London, at first I thought it would be too big but it's great nothing much beats it off the lights and I can get through most traffic, I don’t need to wear a backpack for all the gear I need to carry either, the weather protection is pretty good and coming home 115 MPH allegedly is great fun, I tell everyone I have a Twist and Go scooter it brings a certain belief that it’s just a Put Put, HA HA.

She may be a bit beat up but I love it!!

A search on here will find info on that oil leak, I suspect it the rubber seal weeping where the regulator cables exit the engine casing.

Cheers, I'll take a look, It's not that bad, nothing really registers on the dipstick but looks orible when on the side stand with all the crud stuck to it (I suppose it will protect the undercarriage though )

I would think that the clutch pads should last at least 60k miles. When does the noise occur? The noise is probably a glazed clutch. Several hard take-offs should clean that up. Some riders hold the brakes and turn the throttle for about 5 seconds to clean the glaze.

The replacement interval for the belt is 15k miles. If you are not sure if the drive belt has been changed, that should be a priority.

There is a good step-by-step write-up on this site of what screws, bolts etc. need removing to replace the belt. The pictures are great.

Once you tear it down to do replace the belt, an inspection of components should help you determine the culprit. In addition, with the belt covers off, you can easily replace the rollers with DR sliders.

Lighter rollers or sliders will increase the rpm required for the transmission to transition from low gear to high gear. The higher rpm allows the engine to produce more horsepower and improves the acceleration.

If you go with lighter sliders, they also increase the range of the transmission. Because of their unique pear shape, they will give you a slightly lower low gear and a slightly higher high gear.

I put 28g sliders in my swing. Depending on how much throttle is applied, the transmission spools up in the 4000-5000 rpm range. The acceleration is better and the rpm at 70 mph is about 500 rpm lower than with OEM rollers.

Hi form Hampshire!

Belt was done at 16K so I'll do the sliders (26g ?) & belt @ 30K, the clutch can wait if its only half way through, sorted out the squeal from the back, great tip, I guess commuting will glaze the clutch quickly.

agreat wrote:

I guess commuting will glaze the clutch quickly.

Yes, especially when its wet as you will be taking it easier. A few brisk take offs from the lights and/or a longish ride will keep things healthy.

I pulled the clutch out once and de-glazed the clutch pads, it made little to no difference as it was soon back to normal.