Stop light not working...

hello everybody,

I finally managed to access my trunk (for those who don't know, I locked both keys of my SWT in the trunk 2 hours after purchasing it due to the fact that I am not used to the separated lock like my Burgman 400)

Anyway, now it's ok.

The bike that I bought was stored for 6 months and I had it at a great deal.

Only issue : The stop light are not working when I hit the brake.
The ''day time'' red light are working, but when I hit the brakes, the second filament does not lgiht up..

I have checked the buld, they are fine.

I need to check with a voltmeter if they is some juice out of the wire.

Any idea where it can come from? How to solve it?

Thanks

You should be able to trace it all the way through from the fuse box under the seat (on my SW each fuse is labelled) through the brake lever (you can see the little push connectors under the handlebars) to the lamp holder.

I know there are others here with more detailed knowledge of the electrics and I'll defer to them if they know better...

Let us know how it goes.

Hello,

I wanted to be sure that there is no ''know'' issue on the SW before trying to find the issue.

The fuse is fine, i checked it yesterday.

I tried to clean the lever contact (may be there is a false contact there) but not luck..

Do you know where does the wiring goes after the handlebar? (and before the fuse box)

The brake light switches are "normally closed" switches. When the lever is pulled the circuit "opens". I don't know about the T-model Silverwing, but that the way it is on FSC600 models.

While it is improbable, it is possible, for both of those switches to fail over a period of time. Those failed switches wouldn't be all that evident until the 2nd switch failed and then the brake lights wouldn't operate at all. It happened to me.

Try disconnecting the wiring at the front brake (right side) switch and see if that effects the brake light.

Tim

This applies to the FSC600 model, so might not to yours. The key has to be "on" for the lights to come on. The two switches (normally open, not closed, despite one being drawn that way in the manual) connect power from the "key on" side (same power that lights the license plate and dimmer rear light) to the brake lights when either switch is closed. So make sure you test when the key is "on"

If you are doing that, since you had to fiddle around with the seat lock, make sure you didn't damage any wires there and the connector for the lights is clean, properly functioning, and tight.

Of course with the SWT none of this may apply, but thought I would give suggestions where to look.

Hey guys

Thanks for your help. Really appriciate it.

I will have a look at the from brake lever swith to see if disconnecting one can light the brake on.

I'll keep you posted.

jmaslak, the problem with the brake light was present prior to the issue i had with the lock, so i would assume that I haven't done anything wrong with the back wire.

Also, as the bike were not used for a while, may be the front switch are dirty or corroded, avoiding current to flow..

It sounds like some WD40 and exercising the switches may do the trick then

I didn't had time tonight to do it, but I am planning a full day on wedneday afternoon of bike cleaning/checking

I'll keep you posted

The switch contacts at the brake levers I think are too light and easily fail. After you have cleaned both switches, replace the stop/tail lamp with a LED version. No more failing switch contacts with the very much lower current now going through those switches.

I have scheduled to switch all the light and buld to LED...

Do you know what version of the blinker relay is needed to avoid the fast blinking problem of led?

Look for NO ERROR LED lamps for the blinkers. Failing that you will need to fit a special load resistor device to fool the blinker relay that you still have regular lamps fitted. I think these lamps are BA15S.
Nothing special required for the stop tail LED lamp. I think they are BAY15D

I have tried the no error led on my burgman, they didn't worked..

I think we need led wich includes the resistor to fool the relay..

no?

If I was home, I would give you details of the resistor and wiring that I mentioned, but I am away for at least another 6 weeks doing volunteer work in Kolkata.

Great to hear that . Are you enjoying it?

Are you talking about adding a resistor in // with eaxh lamp?

A resistor in each lead would be the easiest for you. Use 18 ohm, 5 watt resistor. Connect 1 each to left and right side. You only need 1 resistor each side, as the front and rear blinker lights are connected together.
Re Kolkata, enjoying not the right word, but very fulfilling.

Hello

So one on the back-left and one on the back right are enough?

Yes, that should work well.

I will do that.

Now I need to set up the heating grip and find you how to access the from panel :-)

Ok...so i have investigated..

The issue was actually coming from the buld holder.. (don't know the name of that part)

Both sides have issue in ''blocking'' properly the bulbs and so maintaining full contacts on the pin...

I have ordered dual filament led type and take advantage of that replacement to tighten the springs ...

Thanks all of your help

PS: Does anyone know if a flasher relay box can be good for buld and led?
I have opened the from fairing and seen my relay box and it was written on it 2 ligns with wattages and led on the first line and same with buld on the second.

Thanks