owner's manual 2013 SilverWing

Believe the owner's manual included with my new 2013 is much different than the one with my red new SilverWing (probably 2008-09 or 10...I forgot).

I see 10-30 MA non energy saving is recommended--interesting----have to find source hate to pay thru nose from bike shop. Along these lines when 10-40 was recommended in US Helix 1990, in Japan 10-30 recommend.....My Japanese market Fusion(Helix) seemed to run much more free, on 10-30 than did the other 3 US market Helix I had on 10-40----all of my Helix were bought new, one traded at 50,000, the others at 36-50,000 miles. US models all on WalMart 10-40-----run wide open day after day---total mileage around 175,000 for all=no engine trouble---I did like Helix!! Simple to work on. 3 of the 4 did have warranty clutch work, though.

Second I see new manual does have some panel removal instructions!= GOOD.

In process of building on the road tool kit---for front and rear wheel remove, etc to include wrench for air sensor removal-----ain't going to removal rear panel to disconnect wires for muffler removal.

Last: See Bridestone Hoops no longer recommended tire----fronts always worked for me, but rears wore square---I think IRC that came with bike will be ok. Note I had 2 rear Bridestone tires on rear of Helix and Reflex come apart underway!! Previous experience with IRC as replacement on SilverWing were fine.

john grinsel wrote:

I see 10-30 MA non energy saving is recommended--interesting----have to find source hate to pay thru nose from bike shop.  

Shell Rotella, either in T6 full synthetic 5W-40 which I use, or Rotella T 15W-40. Both have the JASO MA rating for Japanese motorcycle engines. Both grades are available at your favourite store, John.
Wal-Mart!

john grinsel wrote:

Last:  See Bridestone Hoops no longer recommended tire----

"Bridestones" proved to be way too expensive!!!  :lol!: 

I have used both of the above Rotella oils named above and they work fine. Currently I have the T-6 synthetic in the Silver Wing.

Probably will go with Rotella reg oil to get the MA----but with over 500,000 miles on WalMart house brand 10-40, may use it=cheaper. I have followed every 60 day change interval or 2,000 miles whichever comes first---for at least 40 years----no engine blow ups----worked in wet and dry clutch bikes---even put in a new Miata and a used one, too.-----Some real junk comes out on my schedule of changing I change filter every other change.

Have leased Genesis----I seldom drive=big pig/but wonderful car, V-6---since I don't care about it and it will be turned in----but wife drives too much----go 10,000 mile change interval with the cheap junk the dealer puts in= works $18.99 filter & oil deal

Will check with my favorite Honda Partsman to see what he can do in case purchase of their oil,too.

john grinsel wrote:

Probably will go with Rotella reg oil to get the MA----but with over 500,000 miles on WalMart house brand 10-40, may use it=cheaper.  I have followed every 60 day change interval or 2,000 miles whichever comes first---for at least 40 years----no engine blow ups----worked in wet and dry clutch bikes---even put in a new Miata and a used one, too.-----Some real junk comes out on my schedule  of changing    I change filter every other change.

Have leased Genesis----I seldom drive=big pig/but wonderful car, V-6---since I don't care about it and it will be turned in----but wife drives too much----go 10,000 mile change interval with the cheap junk the dealer puts in= works  $18.99 filter & oil deal

Will check with my favorite Honda Partsman to see what he can do in case purchase of their oil,too.

out of curiosity - why not consider following the owner manual guide for oil and oil filter changes (every 8000 miles or annual after the initial 600 mile change)? [for the mileage you ride probably every 3 months/8000 miles would work]. Todays engines (especially fuel injected and computer ingnitions) and todays Motorcycle/Automotive oils are much different than they were 40 years ago.

Following owner's manual ok----but seeing what I drain out after 2,000 miles or 60 days I will stick with what has worked for me-----Honda oil 10-30 MA I near $7 a qt...and probably just is crap on low bid.....my Honda shop uses 1040 from a barrel---meet specs?

Few bike/scooter owners actually ride them enough to wear them out anyway.

What I drain--cruddy, dark means additives are doing their job. Ride a lot/change a lot sludge not an issue, too.

Probably will stick with WalMart 10-40....It has worked for the last 500,000 miles. Rotella, interesting, too at decent price.

I do not take bike to dealer for service....too much risk of them screwing it up.....had tire changed in NB--- they-put wheel in wrong, brake calipher screwed up cost me cooked disk and another set of brake pads

john grinsel wrote:

What I drain--cruddy, dark means additives are doing their job.  Ride a lot/change a lot sludge not an issue, too.

Strange, John. My last oil and filter change at 10K was nearly a 6000 mile interval. The oil coming out was very clean... I am planning on seeing if I can make Honda's interval of 8K. Probably won't but I can try   

By contrast, when I bought my used Gold Wing, I got it home and checked the oil and it was thin, dark and generally cruddy looking. Immediately went to O'Reilly's and got a gallon of 15W-40 and changed it hot. New filter. The caveat is I have no idea how long it had been in the bike. The PO I got it from purchased it from a guy in California and put 1000 miles and sold it to me, he had no idea when last oil change was done (sigh). Seems fine now, oil is staying clean and has 2K on it. I plan on using this change as a "flush", I will run it a while longer and change it again. Should be OK, hopefully.