what oil for final drive ?

Please don't bite my head off but my service manual is on order and I did a search and found about 50/50 split on what to use for oil if the final drive. Some say gear lube and some say 10w 30 motor oil. What does the book say? Thanks ,Ernie

Service manual says JASO MA rated motor oil, same as what should be in your crankcase. 10W-30 or 10W-40, makes no difference.

Thank you very much. Ernie

The manual recommends the 10w 30.  Hope this helps. I don't criticize those who do the research before asking a question. I'm sure all the different opinions were found in the posts, so no need to reiterate them here. / I see Bigbird jumped in before I posted this. I'm so happy my answer matched his.

My SWing resides in hot country (Arizona) so I use quality 10W-40 in crankcase and final drive and all seems happy!!! Good luck. In fact. if you buy 3 quarts for an oil change; you will have enough for both crankcase AND final drive! Easy to do so I usually do them at the same time. I believe that if you look there is a GREAT pictorial on changing the final drive oil.

Here is the Pictorial:

https://www.silverwing600.com/t200-changing-the-final-drive-oil-pictorial

If you follow the manual they have you taking off a lot of stuff but if you follow this you only need an open end wrench and a Hex wrench.  Like Glenn said about the oil...you can change both the crankcase and final drive with 3 quarts.  This is why I changed my final drive oil when I changed my crankcase oil.

When I made this I tried the heavier oil in the final drive the one time. Other than this time I always used a 40w synthetic oil (but I don't want to start an oil war here) Hope it helps.

JeffR_ wrote:

Here is the Pictorial:
https://www.silverwing600.com/t200-changing-the-final-drive-oil-pictorial.

The Harbor Freight 'oil can' tip in the pictorial is one great idea that makes this job a snap. I bought an oil can from Harbor Freight and add 9oz of oil ABOVE the bottom of the tip - after 9oz I pump more in very slowly a little at a time as if I pump too much it seems to take forever to weep back out (although maybe it is ok to have a bit more in there than needed - but I avoid doing that).

Thanks guys for the help. Is that what the book calls for , 9ounces of oil?

ernie m wrote:

Is that what the book calls for , 9ounces of oil?

The $35 cost to get a manual online is a wise investment as there are so many answers in one volume - such as the one you are asking. I don't have my manual in front of me - it is a bit more than 9oz if I remember correctly - I actually put about 10oz in the jar, slow down after 9oz and dribble in the rest. I see that Harbor Freight no longer sells the exact same oil can I bought a couple of years ago. Here is what they are lossing for $3 now: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1106.html Here is what Amazon is selling for $20 that is close to what I have (but Harbor Freight is way cheaper): http://www.amazon.com/250ML-Transparent-Pressure-Lubrication-Plastic/dp/B00L7ICKU2/ref=sr_1_24?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1411671858&sr=1-24&keywords=oil+can (this is about an 8oz can).

I use a big plastic syringe that's used for mixing 2 stroke fuel. Here is a link for a "MixMizer" syringe from Amazon, but I'm sure that you can find it cheaper if you look around. Try Auto Zone, Tractor Supply or Pep Boys, etc. HTH

http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10111-2-Cycle-Oil-Mixing-Tool/dp/B000G72U0K

TIM

Sally Beauty Supply color graduated squeeze bottle and a small piece of tygon tubbing. No mess, accurate amount, cost under 5 bucks and the bottle will not deteriorate from the petroleum base liquid. I use the same oil as is in the crankcase and change both at the same time.

http://www.sallybeauty.com/Calibrated-Applicator-Bottle/SBS-305925,default,pd.html#q=color%2Bapplicator%2Bbottle&start=1
 

Ron, I can imagine the Sally Beauty Supply clerk's reaction when those bikers come in looking for "that oil filler bottle".   I won't ask how you knew about it.    :lol!:

I recall changing the final drive oil on my swing last year. I got the "squeeze oil bottle" from harbor freight and put a small hose on the oil spout. The job seemed to be a challenge due to the oil viscosity (warm summer day). Seems it didnt want to leave the oil bottle due to the small hose required to fit the swings filler hole. I tried a slightly bigger hose but then it seemed to get constantly airlocked! I finally coaxed the correct amount of oil in but ended up with more on the floor. Grrrrrr......

Hi Yo wrote:

Ron, I can imagine the Sally Beauty Supply clerk's reaction when those bikers come in looking for "that oil filler bottle".   I won't ask how you knew about it.    :lol!:

A few years back my better half suggested I use this particular bottle instead of the big quart bottle the gear lube came in.
That was a few bikes ago when you would fill the final drive until it was up to or level with the fill hole.
Now the two bikes we care for call for specific amounts for the final drives and the graduations on the bottle make it fool proof and a lot less messy.

BTW the capacity of the drive is 320 milliliters, equivalent to 10.8 fluid ounces for those of you that use the fill till it runs out method.

I am changing my oil today and am going to add Marvel Mistery Oil
Has anyone had any bad effects by using it?
The reason is because for the last few years, I have had a slight grinding noise in the back end that comes and goes depending on the rotation of the wheel. I have spend a few $$$ with shops trying to diagnose and repair the problem, but even the Honda had no idea.


Can I use Marvel Mystery Oil® in my motorcycle?
Yes, add MMO in the ratios recommended in the fuel and oil section above.
How much MMO do I add to the crankcase?
Marvel recommends replacing between 10 and 25 percent of your motor oil with MMO. For example, if the crankcase capacity is 5-quarts, add 4 quarts of your favorite motor oil and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil.

Marvel Mystery oil probably will not hurt anything-----some in the gas now and then may make you feel good and maybe clean something up. I use it now and then.

Engine and rear end---MMO---my take, save your money. You are probably not going to ride the bike enough to wear it out. WalMart house brand oil works fine for me in engine and rear end Think it takes more than 100,000 miles to wear out SilverWing I trade at 50,000 miles anyway. My left over 2013 SilverWing has now 22,000 miles and how no sign of wearing out.

Dimond wrote: "I see that Harbor Freight no longer sells the exact same oil can I bought a couple of years ago. Here is what they are lossing for $3 now: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1106.html"

I purchased one of these when I changed my oil/filter and rear end oil about a month or so ago. The tube worked great but the handle was so flimsy that it kept bending and I barely got the oil all put in.

Just my two cents.

johnd wrote:

for the last few years, I have had a slight grinding noise in the back end that comes and goes depending on the rotation of the wheel.

A very common issue.

Adding anything to the final drive oil, which is normally an EP hypoid gear oil, will only make it less effective at what it's designed for IMHO. In the case of the Swing's final drive, Honda recommends the same JASO MA engine oil as what's in your crankcase.

I would never add anything to my engine or final drive oil.
Do you know what's in Marvel Mystery Oil? Do you know how the Mystery Oil will affect the final drive oil's ability to lubricate under extreme pressure?

I would think if you have the grinding/squealing from your final drive, you have a bearing issue, not a hypoid gear issue.

Big Bird is right. I inspected my diff after 25 k kl,and the oil is as clear as the day it was installed . Honda did not packed the clutch bearing ,the greece that they use is to thick and did does not reach the outer bearing causing it to make noise.remove the driven clutch nut and look inside ,you will see a needle bearing ,and a roller bearing deep in side .try and re pack the bearing and your problems might go away.

I fully agree with bigbird. People read your owners manual and service manuals. It recommends 10-40 motor oil! If your rear end is grinding no amount of oil or any additive is going to cure the problem! :lol!:

Silver Dave K wrote:

I fully agree with bigbird. People read your owners manual and service manuals. It recommends 10-40 motor oil! If your rear end is grinding no amount of oil or any additive is going to cure the problem!

Am I the only one with a sick sense of humor?  

I am always happy and impressed on how many riders read and respond to my help questions.
Thank you all again. After spending hundreds on the rear end noise with no improvement, there was only one alternative that I could see, and that was Marvel. It might be my imagination, but I think the noise has improved. I rode around 90 miles with my son on the back and it may have improved 10%.
Will keep all informed if things get even better.

Dale N. wrote:

Dimond wrote: "I see that Harbor Freight no longer sells the exact same oil can I bought a couple of years ago. Here is what they are lossing for $3 now: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1106.html"

I purchased one of these when I changed my oil/filter and rear end oil about a month or so ago. The tube worked great but the handle was so flimsy that it kept bending and I barely got the oil all put in.

I bought a pump oiler (6 ounce) at O'Reillys Auto Parts and it works well and is sturdy and I believe it was 6 dollars or so. Fill it and pump in and fill half full and pump again and you are almost there!!!