Steering Stem Socket

I found a socket for the jam nut on the steering stem. It's a suspension spindle tool for a Toyota and is a 12 point that will work on the odd ball jam nuts and has a 3" working depth (we need 2 3/4")

Sunex 2804zd 1/2-Inch Drive 32-Mm 12-Point Deep Spindle Nut Socket

Thanks Ron. I'm just about to replace my steering head bearings on my '03. Your info is right on time. I removed the handlebar covers tonight to eyeball that nut and it appears to be 'not a traditional' nut, but a nut that needs 'fingers' to fit into 4 slots on the 'nut'. I suppose it's some kind of spanner type nut. That said, I'm looking thru all the stuff that's under the handle bar covers and I'm not sure that I'm looking at the right piece. I was always under the impression that it was a 32MM nut that required a very deep socket.

Where did you get the Toyota tool?

Tim

The link below is the parts breakdown for the steering stem. Item 6 is the spanner nut you see with the 4 slots, this is the nut you tighten for the bearing preload. You can use the spanner wrench from your tool kit for this. Item 1 is the lock nut that you will need the 32mm deep socket for. I tried a 12" crescent and a plumbers basin wrench with no result to break it free.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f2f9f870021c54be6d27/steering-stem

From the top of the stem to the top of the spanner nut is 2 3/4" that's why you will need the extra deep socket to loosen and torque the jam nut.
BTW after I cleaned all the gunk from the area I found the jam nut to be an 8 sided odd ball octagonal nut.  

I ordered the socket from Amazon, it's on it's way ..... I hope. Do a search on .....  
" Sunex 2804zd 1/2-Inch Drive 32-Mm 12-Point Deep Spindle Nut Socket "  
I called all the local stores listed in the search with hopes that it may be in stock, no luck they all had to special order it.

[Edit] https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunex-2804zd-12-Inch-Drive-32-Mm-12-Point-Deep-Spindle-Nut-Socket/113671006060?epid=5017170213&hash=item1a7751e76c:g:DPwAAOSwBZ5cetXZ

Remove the bars from the post handle and support the weight then remove the post handle from the steering stem. you don't have to disconnect any cables or hoses.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/hon/5053f2f9f870021c54be6d26/handlebar-handle-cover

Thanks for those photos and info Ron. So I guess then that the reason for the 12 point socket is because of the odd shape of that (#1) Lock Nut. I'm glad that you were able to figure out what kind of socket could be used on that nut. I would have accumulated a whole lot of useless trial & error hardware trying to find something to fit --and the end up ordering Honda's Special Tool.

Are you planning to replace the head set bearings, or are you just repacking the OEM bearings? I have my new bearings & seals on hand, but in retrospect I probably should have made the change to tapered roller bearings.

I'm sure interested in how you get on with your job.

Tim

As I fitted taper rollers I had to take the handlebars off a couple of times while things were "bedding-in", gettin the angle on the 'bars so the plastics went back on nicely was a fiddle, so second time around I got out a paint pen & marked the bars & riser caps

Thanks for the heads up, I marked the bars prior to disassembly. The first time I removed them on our 2006 I didn't .... lesson learned!

Good find on that socket BTW while you are waiting delivery you might like to make one of these .. stem nut tool, that & your socket the job will be a breeze
The only other thing I found that was awkward was the lower bearing outer race removal, so made this .. simple "drift"

HTH

I got the socket from Amazon today and made it thru the disassembly, repack and preload adjustment before I called it a day. The socket worked fine but looked like it would be a hit and miss situation as far as the the way the flats on the nut fit the socket. The shock spanner wrench worked for adjusting the bearing preload but The Bern's stem nut tool would have made the job much easier. I ended up using a 8" crescent to extend the handle of the spanner wrench to get the last bit of the 3.7 lbs of pull on the front shock tube.

Thanks for taking the time to write-up & take pic's, that socket is way better fit than what I used to take the nut off first time.

It's been a while since I asked a stupid question on this forum and I've got my street cred' to consider, so here goes:

What is the exact distance between the two points in the photo below?



Photos can be deceptive so I want to make sure I order the correct 12 point socket. The technical information provided by various suppliers can be conflictive and not all of them show the 'inside' depth. When I do the imperial to metric conversion from the above it doesn't equate but it's probably just me.

I'd rather go for something slightly too long than something slightly too short....("said the Actress to the Bishop!")

Come on Man read trouble1100's third post down he claims it's 2 3/4 inches to nut so about 3 inches should work. Never had that apart yet so 32mm socket with proper depth will work.

Like I said to my EX-wife it's not me it's you.

I was confused by the term 'to the top of the spanner nut'. Having re-read it after a good night's sleep it makes sense. trouble1100 calls it an oddball nut. Does it have unequal side lengths which requires the 12 point socket?

I'm still struggling to find the correct socket though, but I'm sure it's out there somewhere

It’s an 8-sided nut. Completely odd. I tried various sockets and schemes in vain but the Sunex 32mm deep-socket (2804ZD) is the only thing I’ve found that will fit that nut. However if you have access to welding equipment The Bern, posting here as Guest, shows how you can DIY a socket which will fit.

That Sunex socket is showing on eBay and Amazon but they do not ship to the UK. I've messaged MPR Tools and Equipment to see if they will ship to UK.

If that fails I'll need to consider emigrating to the USA. Life would be so much easier and cheaper

He is also a member of the X9OC Forum and is based in the UK so you may care to contact him there.
He was on today.

Making my eye starting to twitch again just reading this. I borrowed some factory tools from my local Honda dealer when I tackled the headset and fork seals. Basically rented theirs for the price of lunch for the shop. I've done several headsets and still dread them, but it can easily be done by a competent home mechanic. Save some money and know its done right if you do it yourself.

I wussed out when mine needed doing and gave it to a decent bike shop I know.
Why and 8 sided nut Honda? Why? Is it just one of your little jokes?

Well I found this from a company in South West England.



It's 85mm long (just over 3 1/2 inches). It doesn't look that long in the picture

Good find. Sometimes it takes a bit of searching to find things. Funny US.PRO tools are not sold in US. All listings I've seen are from UK but who knows? One day I'll replace those bearings with tapered ones.

My socket arrived today and as I suspected, it looked a bit small. The socket itself is indeed 800mm (3.14 inches) external length, but the working depth is 60mm (2.36 inches)!!!! GRRRRR! Why do these suppliers hardly ever provide the information we actually need?

If I need 2.75 inches (70mm) working depth then I bought a lemon!

This socket issue is becoming more of a problem than I had making my own tools to remove the driven assembly and clutch bell!

More searching required  

This is something I've never seen before:



I know that trouble1100 tried a crescent plumbers spanner to no avail but this has a 1/2 inch drive and can be used with a torque wrench. I am attempting to contact trouble1100 to see if he tried this particular type. It 'looks' like it should do the job. It's a bit pricey though!

Loosemarbles wrote:

Following your post I researched crows foot sockets on line and here on eBay. Prices here are equally ridiculous. It seems to me that it will far more cost effective to take that new US Pro 32mm deep socket along with another sacrificial socket along to a local welding shop to have the two cut & spliced into one of a proper internal depth.

I ordered two sockets from Amazon, one I cut off where the grove ended, lined up the cut-groved piece with the uncut socket and welded them together, creating an extended socket. Worked without any problems. I will try and attach the Amazon item. The actual socket can be seen in my album.  There is a quart of oil in the picture standing next to the socket for reference. I am unable to give you any dimensions currently as I am on another island here in Hawaii and will not be able to inspect my modified socket..

GEARWRENCH 1/2" Drive 12 Pt. Deep Socket, 32mm - 80827 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L1ZZV4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9YRH0MV6EYGA4WX5Z4RZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1