This is what the box looks like
Specs on the box
Use plastic credit cards to remove top bat wing
I removed windsield, front fairing, right cover, seat, and center cover to run the cables along the frame.
The rear cables exit from under the rear spoiler. Use gourmets to protect cable.
The LED lights came with right angled brackets that I used to mount to the underside of the GIVI mount.
I secured the cables to the square frame pieces. Cables that came with the kit was not long enough to run it anywhere else. The blue tape indicates location of cable run. Use wire zip ties.
This is the controller located in the right compartment.
This is the controller cable connections. Leave enough cable lengths so that you can remove the right side storage box to service the anti freeze. Also use silicone sealer to seal the hole made for the cables to exit the right storage box.
This is the picture of the rear light.
I originally had planned to modify my turn signals to become four way flashers, but I changed my mind for two reasons. 1} I liked the flashing patterns the kit provided, 2) LED should run longer on battery only than my turn signals. I do not have to be running the engine to operate the flashers.
The three patterns are: single flash wig wag, three quick flashes wig wag, and the four way flashing.
Hope I explained everything ok.
To Meldrew, and John the answer is "I just like to tinker with my toys". Acturlly DennisB also did a write up on something similar.
My front LED lights are mounted to Dennis's front light bar.