Idle Adjustment (PLEASE READ) !!! 2-9-10

Edited 2-8-10 PLEASE READ THE NEW INFORMATION

Hi All,

I put in some wrong info when I posted this the first time. The 2 screws I took pictures of are not the "idle adjustment" but fuel mixture adjustments. The Idle Adjustment Screw is in between the "2 screws" but forward about 2". Please see the pic below that I'm posting with this.



If you look throught this hole you will see the idle screw in the location of the front circle in the picture above. When I was reading the manual of where the idle screw was, it said to look through this hole and you will see the screw. Well when I did that these are the only screws I saw so I thought that these were the idle screws. Well I found out that they are for the mixture and not idle. It just so happens to have adjusted the idle rpm's because I was adjusting the mixture. I think when I adjusted mine I made it run "richer" . I thought I was smelling fuel but haven't had the chance to ride it a lot due to the rain.

But I went out today and let if warm up good and then I put the screws back to where they were, or as close as I thought they were. I remember I turned each screw about 3/4 of a turn. So I turned them back to where they were before and then I saw the Idle screw and raised my idle. It does seem to run/idle a bit better. I also noticed my gas mileage went down a few miles per gallon, after the first time I adjusted the idle, so maybe that is why.

I want to apologize for the wrong information. When I went out the first time and looked down, the 2 screws were the only screws I saw. But after finding out that these weren't the idle screws I went back out and played around and found it. What happened was that a rubber hose was inbetween the hole and the idle screw and it was blocking me from seeing it. So I gently pushed it over and saw the screw.

The "Idle Screw" is silver and can be adjusted with a phillips or standard screwdriver. The 2 screws that I thought were the idle screws are "Copper" looking. So if you went by my instructions please go out and re-do what you did. I hope you can remember about how much you turned the 2 screws. You can then adjust the idle with properly.

Again, I apologize and hope you can put it back to normal.

Thanks,

JeffR


Hi,

I went out and adjusted my idle today and thought I would take 2 pictures to show what I did. I consulted the manual to find the idle adjuster screws. There are 2 of them.




The picture above just shows the cotter pin on the "shock" that holds the seat up. Just remove the Cotter Pin so you can remove the "shock" from the top bracket. This will allow you to push the seat up farther to get more room to work. It is very easy but be careful since it could fly somewhere and you could lose it, or it could fall down one of the openings inside the SWing.







You will see 2 Idle Adjustment screws, I have circles around them in the above picture, that need to be turned. I turned each one the same amount or at least as close as possible. I turned these "Counter-Clockwise" to raise the idle rpm's. My rpm's were about 1,000-1,100 when fully warmed up and when I tried to start the bike after it was running I had to give it throttle to keep it running. So I put it up to 1,300-1,400 rpm's and it seems a bit smoother at idle now.

I used the manual to find these screws and they were really the only ones I could find so I assume they are the idle adjusters, since everything worked good and did exactly what I wanted. It is probably the easiest adjustment to do on the SWing, which is why there are only 2 pictures.

Thanks , now my engine wont cut out anymore

You did it again. You are a real pro. Thanks.

p.s. Do you think it safe to try the adjustment with the engine running? Or did you have it off?

Tom,

You need to do it with the engine running. I just looked at my tach while adjusting it.

u p tom wrote:

You did it again. You are a real pro. Thanks.

p.s. Do you think it safe to try the adjustment with the engine running? Or did you have it off?

Honda Service Manual says:

* Inspect and adjust the idle speed after other maintenance items have been performed an are within specification.
* The engine must be warm for accurate idle speed inspection and adjustment.

Warm up the engine.
Place the scooter on the centerstand.

Unlock the seat with the ignition key.
Open the seat.

Turn the throttle stop screw as required to obtain the specified idle speed.

IDLE SPEED: 1,300 +- 100 min (rpm)

The best way to obtain the specified idle speed should be with the engine running. If you start and stop the SWing the additional starting fuel mixture could effect the idle RPM ... and you would have to wait longer to determine what the idle RPM would be.

Hi everyone,

I just edited my original post since I gave incorrect information. Please read the very first post I made in this thread. Thanks.

So is the adjustment one or two screws to turn?

The Idle screw is only one screw. The 2 screws in my initial post is for the mixure. The idle screw is silver and the 2-mixture screws are copper colored.

Thanks Jeff, now we know what all 3 screw control. All your info is greatly appreciated...Dick

As I wrote in my first post my idle is 2000 rpm and no amount of adjustment on that screw will make it faster or slower.Honda want me to put a new throttle body on at £500.00.  

Other than idling at 2000rpm is the engine running fine and throttling as expected?

Just throwing some ideas out...

It could just be the fast idle unit which is a wax filled device, its connected the throttle body and some water hoses. Maybe that's stuck on?

Air leak between the throttle body and engine?

Check the vacuum hoses, could they be connected wrongly after some work?

Maybe the throttles need balancing? At this stage I'd be twiddling the balance screws to see if they had any effect, just note of the number of turns so that you can put them back.

You may have to rip the air box off to can see that each throttle butterfly does open and close fully.

I posted a recent reply in renegades original thread on this subject