Socket size for oil drain plug???

Can anyone help me out? I'm looking for the socket size for the motor oil drain plug?
Thanks in advance!!!

I believe it is a 6 point 24 mm. Avoid a 12 point socket. Be gentle and don't overtighten.
Jay.

cotetoi wrote:

I believe it is a 6 point 24 mm.  Avoid a 12 point socket. Be gentle and don't overtighten.
Jay.

When installing your drain plug, Turn it backward until you feel it drop into the thread, Then turn it clockwise until seated. Three or four foot pounds of torque is sufficient, Seal is accomplished by the O ring.

A stripped case thread is no picnic.

Check that O ring at each change, Replace it if damaged.

Happy motoring Lloyd 193.

Thanks so much for the info!!

Jimmyk try a local Harbor Freight, they sell individual 6 point impact sockets, just the ticket for that job.

As I have posted many times 15/16 AF

Jimmyk wrote:

Can anyone help me out?  I'm looking for the socket size for the motor oil drain plug?
 Thanks in advance!!!

Silverwing, 24 MM or 15/16 SAE socket, I suggest you only use a six sided socket so that you do not round off the shoulders on this soft Aluminum plug.

Using your socket for installation, hold against the spring pressure with one hand thumb while turning your plug to the left, When you feel it drop into the thread turn clock wise until seated.

Three or four pounds torque is sufficient.

Enjoy your bike,

Lloyd 193.

How did we ever manage without your input, on every subject, Lloyd, before you joined last year

Old Limey wrote:

How did we ever manage without your input, on every subject, Lloyd, before you joined last year

Shhhhh, don't agravete him bud, we'll get the million miles & 100,000 tyre speech

Old Limey wrote:

How did we ever manage without your input, on every subject, Lloyd, before you joined last year

You told me several months back, that you would never read my post again, Have you forgotten your statement?

Happy motoring Lloyd

As you seem to reply to each and every post that appears, that is kind of hard to do. I am surprised you find time to do any riding what with running your scooter empire and monitoring this website, maybe you should have your own website, you could call it  The Oracle knows all.

Old Limey wrote:

How did we ever manage without your input, on every subject, Lloyd, before you joined last year

Yes, I am also amazed that you were able to manage at all.

Lloyd193.

I think the arrogance of that reply sums you up!

Old Limey wrote:

I think the arrogance of that reply sums you up!

Clear that you really didn't mean what you said, You continue reading my post. Thanks for all your compliments.

Enjoy your Bike,

Happy motoring Lloyd 193.

Oi Llloyd, you seem to be having memory failure bud, from yesterday ....

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Please stop!
.... /snipped/ ....

Your Silverwing posts are helpful and valued but if the sniping & backbiting continues you'll leave me little choice but to put you in time out.


Tim

The Bern wrote:

Oi Llloyd, you seem to be having memory failure bud, from yesterday ....

Cosmic_Jumper wrote:

Please stop!
.... /snipped/ ....

Your Silverwing posts are helpful and valued but if the sniping & backbiting continues you'll leave me little choice but to put you in time out.


Tim

You know what, it goes both ways! You ALL need to stop trying to get the last word in. I hope that Tim sees that it is not just Lloyd. Yes Lloyd is a part of the problem, but so are you Bern. Let's be civil and friends. We need to get out on the road more and enjoy the ride like John.

Those rounded off Drain plugs can be saved.

Drill a 3/8 hole centered thru that old plug, Place a 3/8 bolt from the outside with the nut on the inside, Torque to 25 or 30 LBS.

Use Silicone sealer and or locktite so that there are no leaks.

Machine the nut inside as necessary so that the spring fits properly. While in the lathe I clean up that old shoulder so that the plug looks factory.

Now a 9/16 wrench will remove and install that plug.

Check the O ring and only use three or four pounds of torque.

Enjoy your bike

Lloyd 193.

Why go to all that trouble, a replacement off eBay is £5/$7.

Meldrew,

Once a person has modified his drain plug as described, His days of stripped plugs are over, Everyone has a 9/16" wrench. Beside saving the ten bucks wanted in the states for a new plug.

Lloyd

You're assuming everyone has a home workshop, machine tools, the necessary skills, interest, or inclination to 'machine the inside of the nut' and 'while in the lathe, clean up the old shoulder'.

You're also assuming 'everyone has a a 9/16" wrench', I don't and neither will anyone who's ridden nothing but Japanese or German machines. They have no need of anything other than Metric tools.

Sorry Lloyd 193, i don't have a 9/16" wrench i went metric years ago but kept my imperial adjustable spanner just in case. Pud

Meldrew wrote:

You're assuming everyone has a home workshop, machine tools, the necessary skills, interest, or inclination to 'machine the inside of the nut' and 'while in the lathe, clean up the old shoulder'.

Hi bud, regarding your first three points ...
I have, I have & I have
regarding the next two points ...
None whatsoever & none whatsoever

TBH given the time it would take to drill the clearance hole, then set up & counterbore a flat area large enough to clear the hexagon of the bolt head, then reverse the plug in the chuck & counterbore that the same for the nut, remove from chuck, fit & torque the nut & bolt, re-insert in chuck reduce the hex' to clear the spring, reverse in chuck, clean up old shoulder .... it would be quicker to machine a new plug from a billet & a lot less operations.

Still assumeing there are machine tools to hand, a much faster way to recover the plug would be, insert it in a chuck mounted on a rotary table & mill a new undersize hexagon to suit any handy spanner size, in fact you could speed it up more by milling the new head as a square

[quote="vmaximus"]Sorry Lloyd 193, i don't have a 9/16" wrench i went metric years ago but kept my imperial adjustable spanner just in case. Pud[/quo

V Maximus,

I should have limited my comments to U.S. riders. The work I described on the drain plug takes me a half hour.

Lloyd 193.

Lloyd it was just a tongue in cheek reply but it's just as easy to file new flats on the drain plug or just buy a new one. Simples. Pud.

vmaximus wrote:

it's just as easy to file new flats on the drain plug

Ohhh, that takes me back to my youth & Honda 50 tappet covers

One thing I did for the socket I only use for the drain plug was to put it in my drill and take it to the bench grinder. I ground the open end flat to get rid of the slight bit of the end to make the "teeth" of the socked come right up to the end of the socket. Not sure if it helped or not but I haven't stripped the head of the plug yet. The "universal" Metric/SAE adjustable wrench just wasn't cutting it.

Dale N. wrote:

One thing I did for the socket I only use for the drain plug was to put it in my drill and take it to the bench grinder. I ground the open end flat to get rid of the slight bit of the end to make the "teeth" of the socked come right up to the end of the socket.

Excellent idea bud, gain as much purchase on the full depth of the nut flanks as possible. :Happy Holiday:

Dale N. What you need are 2 sets of adjustable spanners, 1 set of SAE and 1 set of metric then you've covered all sizes. Pud.

Oh Sure. And here I thought I had all the tools I needed. More expense. But hey! It's tool shopping right? What could be better!!!

When I got mine, it was rounded off and a vice grip couldn't get it off. I ended up using a cold chisel and it was cut a third of the way across the face before I got it to turn. The sad part was I needed to ride the bike to get home, so I put that back in the bike!

Now, I have the new one on the bench and I am preparing myself to change my oil again, this time, removing and toss the old one.

My new plug didn't come with a crush washer. I am going to get a rubber O ring and call it good. Some RV cement should be good lubrication.

My 2005 was serviced at the local dealer according to the previous owner. When I tried to get that thing off it wasn't budging. I bought a spare drain plug just in case. I was glad I did. After using a cold chisel, and other mangling tools I was able to get it off. It was on so tight that It left a third of the threads in the block. Luckily, no damage to the case threads.
I followed instructions very carefully after that. You only need to learn some lessons once. Mechanics use an impact tool to cut their time on your machine.
Jay.

The first time I tried to unscrew the drain plug for an oil change after my Silver Wing was out of it's warranty period I couldn't believe how much it had been tightened. I had to use an extended length socket arm to get the leverage to loosen it.

Since then oil changes have been a lot easier.

The drain plug on my scooter had an O ring but it took my dealer a week to obtain a replacement.