How to replace your airbox with a K&N Pod Filter

Howdy all,

Shout out to gavinfdavies for inspiring me to do this mod.  

Here is this original thread:

https://www.silverwing600.com/t10479-exhaust-pod-filter-iat-probe-mod-performance-results

Okay, what you'll need:

K&N Pod filter Part Number K&N RB-0720.

Here is an Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062YO36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This filter has a 5 degree flange tilt vs the RD-0720 which has none.

The process is like replacing your panel filter (check Youtube, threads here, etc), but you'll be removing your entire airbox.

A quick definition: the airbox is what houses your panel filter and has a rubber boot going to your air intake plenum.

Once you get the panel off you'll see this:



There's 2 ways to do this, the hard way and the easy way since getting to the phillips head screw that holds the rubber boot to the air intake plenum is a major PITA because it's facing towards the inside of the bike, not the outside (so you can't get to it).

The hard way is to remove the left side body panel, rear panel, battery, battery box, and luggage compartment.  Gavin talks about this in his original thread.  Once you do all this you will finally be able access the phillips head screw.  Unscrew it and pull the boot from the air intake plenum.  Remove the three 10mm bolts holding your airbox on and remove it entirely.

I don't have the time for this so here is the easy/sketchy way:

This part is a little tricky, but you're going to squeeze the air intake boot that goes into your airbox, breaking the sealant all the away around, then removing the 3 10mm bolts holding your airbox to the frame.  You won't be reusing your air filter box.  

You're left with this:



Note the sealant and how the hose clamp going around the air intake plenum has its screw facing the wrong direction.  

This next part is a little sketchy but again, I'm lazy and don't have the time or inclination to take apart the entire rear end of my bike to get to a phillips head screw.  

So...take your Dremel and cut off the hose clamp going around the rubber boot attaching it to the air intake plenum.

Pull the boot off and voila.  

Off course I didn't take a picture but you're left with an air intake plenum inlet.  You can see your throttle body inside.  Use your imagination.

Next, jam the K&N filter over the inlet like so:





Rotate the filter so the 5 degree bend works for you and moves the filter away from the luggage compartment.  Also, make sure to position the K&N supplied hose clamp so the flat head screw is accessible.  This was still a little bit of PITA to tighten, but it's doable.

Next, re-install your right side pillion footrest, body panel, rear body panel, and finally your grab bar.

That's it!

This is what you're left with:





Sexy!

Throttle response is much improved, feels like it pulls harder.  I might install an K&N prefilter sock for the dust around here.  I'll see how dirty it gets.

Here is a cautionary picture of what overthinking this mod gets you:



I had bought another airbox off of Ebay, had modified it to take that 2.5" id piping, modified the boot, blah blah blah.  I was going to put the pod filter inside and drill holes in the airbox cover.  It was all for naught.  It was going to be way more work to make all that work instead of just jamming the pod filter onto the air intake plenum and calling it good.  So remember kids, KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid.

Hope you enjoyed the pictorial and let me know if you have any questions.

Good creative thinking and an interesting read, thanks for sharing.

Not sure where Gilbert AZ is but I'm a regular visitor to Scottsdale. Every time I envision riding my Wing there, I think, "Geez, I'd have to change the air filter every ten days with all the desert dust in the air."

Delray wrote:

Good creative thinking and an interesting read, thanks for sharing.

Not sure where Gilbert AZ is but I'm a regular visitor to Scottsdale. Every time I envision riding my Wing there, I think, "Geez, I'd have to change the air filter every ten days with all the desert dust in the air."

Thanks!

Scottsdale is about 40 minutes North of me.

Yeah, one of the reasons I wanted to house the pod filter inside the old airbox was to cut down on the dust and/or rain if I was ever caught out.

The current set up with the filter just hanging out there is a little worrying, but I think the trade offs are worth it.

There's no way the old airbox set up with that single 1.5" snorkel opening was flowing enough air, especially with the Power Commander and exhaust I have on there.

Bike definitely feels livelier and doesn't struggle when you pin the throttle.

Interesting report, keep us posted on how it works out for you down the road! I installed a K&N panel filter in my Silver Wing because Honda insists on burying the filter and making it a PITA to access. Never saw one worse than on my Gold Wing 1800, took almost 3 hours to get to it so it got a K&N too!

My feeling is Honda engineers should be required to replace the air filters, perhaps they would find an easier way to change them? LOL

BTW in winter I am in Wickenburg not too far from you!

I like the ease for replacing your K&N filter set up.

Does this Mod. nix the emission features? The state of NH annual inspection includes emission testing.

Thanks

Osprey wrote:

Does this Mod. nix the emission features? The state of NH annual inspection includes emission testing.

Judy

Do you really think that all those testosterone fueled leather boys in NH have actually kept their HDs in factory-stock condition so that they could pass the emissions requirements? I'm quite sure that loud pipes and "enhanced" intake systems are as de rigueur in NH as they are with those Daytona/Laconia/Sturgis poseurs. 

More than likely you going to that K&N pod filter will cause your Silverwing to run a bit lean. So lean that you'll be the recepient of the NHDOT Clean Citizen award. 

But why bother? There is nothing wrong with the OEM system. YMMV.

Tim

Osprey wrote:

I like the ease for replacing your  K&N filter set up.  

Does this Mod. nix the emission features? The state of NH annual inspection includes emission testing.

Thanks

It's a 2004 so I'm unaware of any emissions equipment in the airbox.

Do they actually do tail pipe probes in NH?

That sounds crazy for bikes.

I'm already running this:



And this:



So I'd probably be in trouble there.

Just curious here.

The trip next year is will be out west.  I'm in the planning stages 3-4 weeks of travel time  Probably a heck of a lot more dust than around here.  

Wondering how often OEM filter would need to be replaced.  Not a big problem to do as I was just in there taking stock of current filter situation. Pretty easy job.  

What I'm thinking about is the availability of a K&R filter, if this system really works.  That's a wait and see at this point.

Then again, I plan to order new tires and have them sent to, a yet unplanned place, for replacement during the trip.  I could do the same for the OEM filter.  How many would I need?  I'm looking at some travel through the "dust belt" NM, AZ and so on, as part of the trip.

All advice is welcome!

p.s.  I've done a lot of long distance bicycling and hiking.  It helps to plan ahead etc.....
Thanks



i

I rode my 2 new SilverWings near 50,000 miles each---checked one, once, never changed, or was it necessary----they performed well at the end too. One ridden to AK, dust storm in Texas----changing looking, pain in butt. OEM filter work fine.


Carrying a new spare drive belt good idea

Thank You John,

It really helps to know what to expect . . .  I'll stick with OEM.  

I guess an extra belt is like carrying spare chain links and spokes for bicycle trips.  

Check 1.  Extra Belt  Check 2.  Bring variator tool - doubt those are just laying around anywhere

Sad with SilverWing/Burgman 400/Reflex/my new Kymco XTown 300i----drive belts cannot be changed without front pulley removal-----bad design by somebody who doesn't ride/fix. Helix, belt could be changed by taking cover off, sqezzing rear clutch open, holding with block of wood, changing belt---I know I had 4 new ones for over 175,000 miles=good design.

I view drive belt on rubber band drive scooters that are ridden a lot, as the weakest link. But in over 400,000 rubber band drive miles---only one broken belt for me (Helix)---I use OEM belt and change at maker's recommended intervals period. I hate walking

Funny Cosmic_Jumper! You're right of course.

I just had my bike inspected and wondered if the mechanic actually did anything. Probably put the sticker on and charged the 20 bucks. That's okay with me. He also installed my the brake pads I had ordered and did a front fork rebuild. - Bought all the parts, including suggested oil - Torco 15w. Massive riding improvement! They definitely needed to be done. Only 150.00 labor plus cost of parts. Well worth it.

I like the easy access for the battery, why could they not make the air filter the same way, access through a service flap from the trunk.
Malaguti did it and they used a VW Golf II air filter, last very long and cheap to replace.

Great post and pics - this is exactly what I was thinking I'd do when I researched the air filter replacement procedure when buying my SW. I'm used to motorcycles mostly, and have had a number of scooters over the years, but this particular depth of unfriendly to the self-servicing owner leaves me speechless. I know they need to design to help the dealer make money in after-care, but this design is just blatantly insulting.

petesuz wrote:

Great post and pics - this is exactly what I was thinking I'd do when I researched the air filter replacement procedure when buying my SW. I'm used to motorcycles mostly, and have had a number of scooters over the years, but this particular depth of unfriendly to the self-servicing owner leaves me speechless. I know they need to design to help the dealer make money in after-care, but this design is just blatantly insulting.

I understand your frustration, but the pictorial on this forum makes air filter service much easier... I can do it in 30-40 minutes. Mine has a K&N drop-in and I clean it every 20-25K.
If you really want to freak out try doing an air filter on a Goldwing 1800, it literally took 2 people over 2 HOURS to replace. AAAGH