Rear caliper availability

I'm working to get my Swing road-ready, and have come up against the old corroded brake caliper pin problem. I tried my usual method (impact driver) but sadly the allen head rounded out before the corrosion gave up.

I'm struggling to find a second hand replacement caliper, can anyone point me to any for sale? I see plenty of front calipers or parking brakes but none of the rear caliper. Is there a caliper from another Honda model that is a straight swap?

Neither Partzilla or ServiceHonda’s parts list show the caliper body available as an individual part. But I’ll betcha that that caliper is common to a couple of other smaller bikes. It’s the mounting hardware that’d be different.

Perhaps our man Siataukreg will chime in on this. He’s certainly dismantled enough bikes and scoots to know what going on there. He may even have a used one available.

Or, you might try researching Nissin calipers to see if you can find that interchangeability from the manufacturer’s end. 

Tim

Rear calipers in good condition are like hens teeth best to take care of the one you have fitted, its always the first thing that goes from a breaker

Its easy to remove the pad securing pin even when rounded off i have never had one that will not come out secret is to use a sharp small chisel with the caliper in a vise where the thread is run down the line of it using a small hammer so it makes a grove this spreads the thread slightly using a good pair of vise grips on the pin itself it should come free

Thanks for the replies. Looks like I will need to get creative with my existing caliper, I got the cover off easily but the hex head in the pin itself is rounded out. I have not yet resorted to penetrating oil and heat but they are next. I have seen someone TIG weld a hex key into the pin and that worked a charm. The bike I bought has been stored outside unused near the sea (or possibly in the sea!) for a few years so everything is a bit crusty, even the reservoir screws.

Warm it up a little propane torch. A LITTLE. Try impact driver with a Torx bit sized to fit rounded out hex. It will come out.

If you don't want to use an open flame a good soldering gun tip applied on high can generate some decent heat.

From looking on Malossi's site, these are all bikes that take the same brake pads. Usually that means they share a caliper. Sometimes the hose goes in on the other side, or they have a bit of a different bracket, but sometimes the brackets can be switched, so visually verify it looks the same. If it looks the same, and takes the same pad, it's going to work. EBC might have a cross reference chart too.

HONDA HONDA FORZA 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 <-2016 (JF60E) Front
HONDA HONDA FORZA 125 ie 4T LC euro 4 2017-> (JF69E) Front
HONDA HONDA FORZA 300 ie 4T LC euro 4 2018-> (NF07E) Front
HONDA HONDA SH I 300 ie 4T LC euro 4 2015-> (NF05E) Front
HONDA HONDA SH i ABS 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 2013->2016 (JF41E) Front
HONDA HONDA SH i ABS 125 ie 4T LC euro 4 2017->2019 (JFG8E) Front
HONDA HONDA SH i ABS 150 ie 4T LC euro 3 2013->2016 (KF13E) Front
HONDA HONDA SH i ABS 150 ie 4T LC euro 4 2017->2019 Front
HONDA HONDA SILVER WING 400 4T LC Rear
HONDA HONDA SILVER WING 600 4T LC Rear - for vehicles PRODUCED 2001 -->
HONDA HONDA SW-T 400 4T LC euro 3 (NF01E) Rear
HONDA HONDA SW-T 600 4T LC euro 3 (PF01E) Rear
KAWASAKI KAWASAKI J 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 <-2016 (WS25) Front
KAWASAKI KAWASAKI J 125 ie 4T LC euro 4 2017-> Front
KAWASAKI KAWASAKI J 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 (WS60) Front
KAWASAKI KAWASAKI J 300 ie 4T LC euro 4 2018-> (WS60B) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DINK Street 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SK25) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DINK Street 200 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SK40) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DINK Street 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SK60) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DINK Street 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 2012-> (SK60A) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DOWNTOWN 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 <-2016 (SK25) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DOWNTOWN 200 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SK40) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DOWNTOWN 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SK60) Front
KYMCO KYMCO DOWNTOWN 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 2012-> (SK60A) Front
KYMCO KYMCO G-DINK 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SP25) Front
KYMCO KYMCO G-DINK 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SH60) Front
KYMCO KYMCO MYROAD i 700 4T LC (SAAD) Front
KYMCO KYMCO NIKITA 200 ie 4T LC euro 3 Front
KYMCO KYMCO NIKITA 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 Front
KYMCO KYMCO SUPER DINK 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 <-2016 (SK25) Front
KYMCO KYMCO SUPER DINK 200 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SK40) Front
KYMCO KYMCO SUPER DINK 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SK60) Front
KYMCO KYMCO SUPER DINK 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 2012-> (SK60A) Front
KYMCO KYMCO XCITING - XCITING R 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 Front
KYMCO KYMCO XCITING 250 4T LC euro 2 Front - Rear
KYMCO KYMCO XCITING 400 ie 4T LC euro 4 (SK80B) Rear
KYMCO KYMCO XCITING 400i S ie 4T LC euro 4 2018-> (SK80C) Rear
KYMCO KYMCO XCITING 500 4T LC euro 2-3 Front - Rear
KYMCO KYMCO XCITING R 500 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SB A0) Front - Rear
KYMCO KYMCO YAGER GT 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 Front
KYMCO KYMCO YAGER GT 300 ie 4T LC euro 3 (SH60) Front
MBK MBK CITYLINER 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 Front
MBK MBK EVOLIS 250 ie 4T LC 2014 -> Front
MBK MBK EVOLIS 400 ie 4T LC Front
SUZUKI SUZUKI BURGMAN AN 650 4T LC <-2007 Front // for VEHICLE with Front DOUBLE DISC
YAMAHA YAMAHA VERSITY XC 300 4T LC (H314E) Front - for vehicles PRODUCED 2005 -->
YAMAHA YAMAHA X CITY 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 (E3A5E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X CITY 250 ie 4T LC euro 3 (G358E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X CITY 250 ie 4T LC euro 3 2014-> (G3B7E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X MAX 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 2009->2013 Front - for vehicles PRODUCED 2010 --> 2013
YAMAHA YAMAHA X MAX 125 ie 4T LC euro 3 2014->2016 (E3M1E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X MAX 125 ie 4T LC euro 4 2017 (E3V9E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X MAX 250 ie 4T LC euro 3 2010->2013 (G389E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X MAX 250 ie 4T LC euro 3 2014->2017 (G3B3E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X MAX 400 ie 4T LC euro 3 <-2016 (H330E) Front
YAMAHA YAMAHA X MAX 400 ie 4T LC euro 4 2017-> (H340E) Front

Mech 1 twa wrote:

Warm it up a little propane torch. A LITTLE. Try impact driver with a Torx bit sized to fit rounded out hex. It will come out.  

Happy to say that this was the winning combination, a T35 Torx and the impact driver. Had to be patient and wait for the penetrating oil to do its bit as well, as early tries went nowhere, but after two days I had success.

Next up I need to remove the right swingarm completely in order to access the right crankcase cover (oil leak and new stator to fit). Unfortunately one of the three torx bolts will not budge. Yet. Will patiently apply penetrating oil, and may have to get a real propane torch. At least this fitting is the rearmost nearest the wheel, so easy to get to on the bike.

Terry if you can find the product KROIL it's some great stuff, 2nd PB Blaster, good luck.

The project continues. The swing arm is a larger part it can be heated a bit more. It's been awhile since I had that apart. The block it's bolted to can be removed from belt side most likely 14mm bolts. I'm not sure but service manual shows it that way. There are dowel pins don't loose them.

Mech 1 twa wrote:

The project continues.  The swing arm is a larger part it can be heated a bit more. It's been awhile since I had that apart.  The block it's bolted to can be removed from belt side most likely 14mm bolts. I'm not sure but service manual shows it that way.   There are dowel pins don't loose them.

Brilliant, I hadn't thought of coming in from the other side, but the manual shows that exactly. Not sure whether the variator needs to be removed first (got a tool on the way and a new belt). Maybe I'll get lucky (touches wood). Thanks.

Happy Days! I pulled off the belt covers and the four 14mm bolts are sitting right there for easy access, and all broke free with no real effort. So that gives me a good working Plan B if getting the original torx bolt out fails. I was concerned that using increasing force would round this out, but now that won't really matter. Thanks again Mech 1 twa!

As a precaution I used a hammer impact driver tool on those right side swingarm torx bolts to break them free. It was probably overkill, but it worked for me.

When the crankshaft seal needed replacing I did the same thing to free the left side swingarm pivot bearing bolts. I sure didn’t want to chance rounding off those bolt heads in the engine case. Again, it was probably overkill.

Tim

Once you get that all back together put the wheel, axle and shock loosely tightened before torquing those swing arm bolts. Keeps everything in alignment.

Thanks again for the suggestions gentlemen. I have also worked on my Honda ST1100 with final drive replacement, and the same principle (leaving the bolts loose so that all parts align nicely) applied when bolting the final drive back into the swingarm.

Happy to say that my reluctant torx bolt is now free, I used a bigger club hammer on my impact driver, and pounded on that for quite a few times, then put a decent breaker bar on and it broke free easily!

So far with this bike I have had to disassemble and clean the calipers and flush the brakes, rebuild the forks (new seals) and have repainted the forks, wheels and right swingarm. Still to do (pending arrival of parts from overseas which will take some time) is a stator replacement, fix a leak (around the crank position sensor wire grommet I think) and replace the drive belt (25.7mm which is below spec), replace the discs (both near minimum) and replace some old hard tyres. Then there are the cosmetics. I only paid about US$700 so can't compain too much.

I have one technical questions, should I use grease or something on the rear wheel splines? I know the Honda shaft-drive bikes are quite specific about using high strength moly grease here, but the Swing manual doesn't give any guidance.

Honda moly paste. M77 just a lite coating on splines. Can't hurt mine was dry if anything prevents wear and rust.I used this stuff on my FJR 1300 for years shaft driven bike but is totally different than SW.

oldwingguy wrote:

Terry if you can find the product KROIL it's some great stuff, 2nd PB Blaster, good luck.

2nd this. Here is an amazon link. Stuff is great not cheap but worth it.

Aerokroil

Moly paste is the best. The molybdenum will actually penetrate the surface of the metal and protect it even if the past is washed out. I've used it on aircraft and motorcycles for many years. Be careful of getting a bunch of it on your hand because you'll have dark fingertips for awhile. The moly can penetrate the surface of your skin. The link below gives a lot of info and where to get it.

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=molybdenum+paste+for+motorcycle&ia=web