Binding parking brake on 2001 SWing

Hi,

I have a 2001 non ABS (UK model) SWing and am suffering binding of the parking brake. I have owned the machine since late summer last year. Had some generator issues with it but got lots of help from this forum and a great local mechanic.

Anyway, I never use the parking brake but did a few days ago to help be hold her on a hill instead of keeping the brake lever pulled and blinding the driver behind with brake light. Since, it has been binding.

I don't have a workshop manual but am quite competent but would appreciate if anyone can let me know of anything to watch out for/tips on removing the calliper and freeing it up?

Cheers

Martyn

free up the cable and operating mechanism----oil works----that failing takes the operating (cam/screw?) deal apart. Bike is old and maybe just needs some tender care. I tend to use parking brake often as it prevents rolling off side stand.

Thanks John. Bike is old and I bought it from a guy who hardly used it for 2 years. Maybe I should use the brake more, stop it seizing.

I'm sure oil will work but, with not having a workshop manual to guide me, I wondered if there was something I needed to watch out for if I had to remove it.

Cheers

Martyn

First try loosening the lock nut that is holding the adjuster screw in place on the parking brake caliper itself, then loosen the adjuster screw and see if it frees up the caliper. If you are not aware there are 2 calipers on the rear wheel, one for the hydraulic brake and one for the parking brake.

With the parking brake caliper looser you will be able to check the action of the parking brake cable and determine if it's binding. You can spray WD40 with the included straw up the cable or down the cable and see if that frees it up (don't over-do it though, you don't want the stuff to get on your rear rotor).

I use my parking brake every day when I fill up. I don't get off of the bike while fueling and it prevents the bike from moving while I am stationary and have my legs down.

Jesse

It's like the parking brake on a car or truck. If you don't make a habit of using it, the cable could seize in place and snap when you need it. Hopefully that won't have your scoot rolling down a hill.

I've "rebuilt" my parking brake caliper several times in an effort to stop the brake from seizing. Finally I ended up bodging together a 1/16"x 1/2"x3" bracket and spring (like a Burgman) mounted on the caliper bolt which adds tension to the to the caliper arm when the brake is released.

Tim

I use my parking brakes all the time , but it locked on once at the coffee shop,and could not on lock it.Turns out it was my fault, in a panic mode I was pulling to hard to release the parking brake.To release the brake once it is engage you have to pull the lever very lightly to release ,1 to 3 times to release. Don't panic and it will release every time.If you pull to hard you will only keep on locking the brakes . I lern the hard way.

Thanks everyone. I'm gonna have to remove it for some serious attention, it just won't fully release even after oiling & manipulating the cable and adjuster.

Cheers

Martyn

I had to have mine stripped by the garage as it was on solid. (Warranty)

I tend not to use mine at all. Every time I ride now I work the mechanism once or twice just to move the cable and pads.

Being a 01 Swing , and subject to the rainy condition , I can see how the cable would freeze up. It might be a UK problem where one rides his Swing to work rain or shine. Here I ride mostly in dry condition and not to go to work with.

I've just started using it for commuting because the cost of public transport has become uneconomical! The previous owner had hardly used it for 2 years, told me he never used the parking brake. Having ridden conventional motorcycles in all weathers for over 30 years I've never had any problem of a bike rolling off the stand so this brake is quite a novelty to me. When it's on the centre stand, I don't see the point of it really.

Yeah mine has seized more or less solid, it will have to come off tomorrow.

But you can put bike in gear to keep it from rolling, rubber band drive scooter, no. Fall off stand, plastic expensive to fix.

I would think that the cable would be incase with a plastic sheath to prevent the cable to freeze up . I still think that the problem would be in the hand brake handle where there is a spring looking system that could need some lube.that part of the lock is very sensitive and needs only one click to release the brake. If you pull to hard it will keep locking on the next catch.

Prior to adding the Burgman-type return spring on the caliper I was carrying a stiff wire about 10" long with a hook bent on the end. I could use that to reach in behind the hot muffler and hook the caliper lever/cable attachment and give it a wee pull back to free it.

The problem is in the parking brake caliper, not in the handle mechanism or cable corrosion.

john grinsel wrote:

But you can put bike in gear to keep it from rolling, rubber band drive scooter, no. Fall off stand, plastic expensive to fix.

Thanks for your input John but ya know, in over 30 years of riding conventional bikes of all sizes, I never put my bike in gear when parked, I see no point. If it's parked on the centre stand, the rear wheel is (usually) off the ground anyway. It it does somehow roll off the stand, how will being in gear prevent damage?

For the majority that own a Swing are up there in age ,uses the side stand in every day use except for doing work on scooter or long term storage. It takes more effort with the centre stand. Wind and parking lot bumps from vehicles can push scooter if parking brake is not in use.It would be good practice to also use side stand and P-k brake when using center stand. Try to fix it if you can.

I have never parked a bike on the side stand for anything other than a short duration, a quick stop.

Anyway, in closer inspection it seems the parking brake may not be the culprit! I removed the two mounting bolts and swung it upwards off the brake rotor but the wheel was still restricted. Discovered the main rear brake pistons are stuck. I need to get the caliper off. Removed the 14mm top mounting bolt but can't see how to get the caliper off the bottom floating pin without removing the wheel.

Before you try to repair the brakes. Push the brake calliper piston body in. This releases the pads from the disc.

Then you can start to remove the calliper it's self.

You may find it better to remove the exhaust to get better access to the assembly but you certainly do not have to remove the wheel to remove the rear brake assembly!

Thanks, I wouldn't have thought the rear wheel would have to come off but I can't seem to get the calliper off the bottom floating pin. I don't have a workshop manual yet.

Dramhunter wrote:

Thanks, I wouldn't have thought the rear wheel would have to come off but I can't seem to get the calliper off the bottom floating pin. I don't have a workshop manual yet.

Try a wee bit of heat, hair dryer!! and some light tapping with a nylon headed hammer or the like. Failing a not metallic hammer place wood or the like between the impact area and the hammer. Saves breaking something!!!!! (I have that tee shirt)

Dramhunter you have PM.

Doug, I figured it out. It screws out from the inside of the calliper. The bottom float pin has a 12mm spanner head on the inside. Out it came and the calliper dropped off. Couldn't see any logical way from the outside surface. Very cunning Mr Honda, but why? It's the sort of wee thing I used to come across now and again on the airhead Beemers.

Anyway, it's filthy in there and the lower piston has stuck further out than the upper one and there's corrosion around the outer surfaces of both pistons. Maybe better to replace than spend an age stripping and cleaning this one.

So my SWing is now off the road until this is sorted. Back to expensive public transport for another while. At least I know what the problem is and I can sort it myself.

Thank you everyone for all your advise and assistance. Anyone own an old airhead Beemer they need a hand with? ad those in pieces!!

cheers

Martyn

Coincidentally I recently "rebuilt" my rear caliper. One of the two pistons was stuck out and causing the brake pars to drag. Once I got the caliper removed I used a "C" clamp and the old brake pad to push the piston(s) back. Then I applied the brake cautiously to get both pistons to extend just short of popping out of the caliper. I did, however, have to use the clamp and pad to stop the good piston for extending too far so that the corroded piston could catch up.

Once I removed the caliper from the brake hose I was able to remove the pistons completely. I cleaned the lot up with Brake Cleaner spray, then used a brake cylinder hone to clean up the piston bores. After cleaning several times again I replaced the bore seals and new pistons (I could have used the old ones), added new fluid and bled the brakes.

It's a relatively easy job.

Most hydraulic fluids will 'eat' brake grime. Just soak what parts you can. (Hold the pads!!!!! ) and give a good clean and they should polish up loverly!!!

I used to use OM15, (aviation hydraulic fluid - Mil Spec) eats anything and everything that shouldn't be there.

Basically what C-J said!

Thanks guys. Done that once before on a very old Beemer with a sticky front brake. I'll take this calliper off tomorrow and assess what effort may be needed. Probably try and clean it as new ones seem pricey. Sure it's all part of the ownership experience, right?!!

Seem to have got it sorted. The pistons just needed a good polish on their outside surfaces and the calliper thoroughly cleaned. Just had to buy a G Clamp to press the pistons back. Will remount the parking brake and adjust it.

Thanks for all the help.

cheers

Martyn